WoodnMetalGuy

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About WoodnMetalGuy

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  1. Looks like it goes well. It will be fun to see it with some hot metal in there vs. the wooden board! -- Dave
  2. Did you mean 1/2" square stock? So you want to make a 4 foot ring out of 1/2" square stock? Probably in industry it would be done on a ring roller, two rolls on the bottom and an adjustable third one - a triangle configuration. Lowering the third roller gives a tighter radius. And I have seen a similar configuration of round bars on a fly press to bend the stock bit by bit (generally cold) until the full circle is formed. Maybe you could do something similar to that with a couple blocks and a hammer and a template to judge whether you're on track or not? -- Dave
  3. Two great minds! I'm glad we came up with the same answer! -- Dave
  4. I think you can just do a volume calculation and be pretty close. You currently have 1 x .75 x 6.5 = 4.875 cubic inches. So your target is .5 x 1 x ? = 4.875, so your answer is 4.875 / .5 = 9.75 inches long. Just doing this in your head you could see that the current cross section is .75 sq inches, and you're going for .5 sq inches, so based on the cross section being 2/3 as much, the length will be 3/2 or 1.5 as much. -- Dave
  5. Sorry, I'm not familiar with the internals of this vise, but since the handle seems to be unscrewing when you try to open the vice, part of the mechanism that secures the jaw to the screw must be broken or missing. If you start taking it apart it will probably become obvious at some point... -- Dave
  6. Frosty - yes, good point. I was trying to explain the difference between compression and flare fittings, and am sorry if I confused the issue! -- Dave
  7. No, that's a compression fitting. What you want to use to hook up to copper tube is a flare fitting of the appropriate size for the tube. Here's an example of a flare fitting: https://www.lowes.com/pd/BrassCraft-1-2-in-x-1-2-in-Threaded-Flare-x-MIP-Adapter-Adapter-Fitting/50380844 You need a flare nut to go with that. To make the connection, you slide the nut on the tube, then use a flaring tool to flare the end of the tube, then screw the nut onto the fiting, trapping the tube in between. -- Dave
  8. Didn't know what those looked like, but easily found some images. Why do they have that large bulb on the handle? Is it a syle thing handed down through the years or does it serve some functional purpose? -- Dave
  9. I like those hammer heads, and I think you could enhance the overall look of the tool by just doing a little additional shaping of the handles along the line of the photo below. I don't think it would take much to make them look a little more graceful. A spokeshave would be a great tool to use for that. -- Dave
  10. Here's what I've got for a choke plate. I'll be trimming the threaded rod that the plate is on, don't need it so long. One weld to attach the threaded rod to the side of the coupling nut, and a braze to attach the nut to the choke plate, other than that it all threads together. -- Dave
  11. Here's what you want: https://www.amazon.com/Wiring-Simplified-Based-National-Electrical/dp/097929455X You may be able to find this at a Menards or Home Depot, also. Good book that shows you exactly how to hook up your plug and switch, etc. Geared to beginners. If you need to restrict airflow you could partially block the input of your blower. Some little bit of sheet metal on a screw that you can pivot over the intake. The fan in your photo looks like a little squirrel cage fan, which won't be able to build much pressure. If you need more air you may want to look for a radial vane fan like the traditional hand-cranked coal forge blowers. Or like what is used in shop vacs. Here's an example of a radial vane fan. Not that you'd want to use this one in particular, but you can see how the fan vanes are differently arranged: http://www.surpluscenter.com/Electrical/Blowers-Fans/DC-Centrifugal-Blowers/12-VDC-DRAFT-INDUCTION-BLOWER-16-1390.axd -- Dave
  12. If that's a 12V motor, you won't be able to plug it into the wall, which is 120V. And if you meant 120V, you still won't be able to plug into household power if it's three-phase. Sorry, I don't know how you'd run one of those... -- Dave
  13. Nice, thanks for that explanation. I can see the hinge now. And I really like the cast brass knobs - I hadn't picked up on that detail before! -- Dave
  14. John - Looks nice - I've been contemplating building one lately. Where did you source the wheels? And is there a tracking adjustment somewhere? I couldn't spot it in the photos. Thanks - Dave
  15. And I bet it wouldn't be too bad to rework the bottom to shorten it up by a few inches? -- Dave