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About WoodnMetalGuy

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  1. Very neat handles. Was not at all obvious to me at first glance how you did that. Thanks for the explanation! I like the contrast between the smooth spirals and the staggered stacks of 'cubes'. I wonder if a bandsaw cut would work as well, or if you need the little bit additional cut out that the curve of the grinder removes? -- Dave
  2. I set up mine to be at belly button height. Just seemed right to me. -- Dave
  3. Sounds like that's talking about adjusting the belt tracking... -- Dave
  4. I've used them in boatbuilding, mixed with epoxy to produce an easily sanded filler, not used for structural purposes. Hadn't thought about putting them in refractory... -- Dave
  5. Thanks, Vaughn, I'm looking forward to trying this. I have some lead that I will probably use for two-sided stuff. And have some brass around, too. I'm thinking either of those would also work. -- Dave
  6. Had not heard of these before, so I learned something new today. Here's a link to setting one up for anyone else who might not know what a pitch bowl is: http://www.alberic.net/Student_Home/Handout_Archive/files/PitchBowls V1-Web.pdf Do I understand this correctly - that the idea with the copper that it's softer than the steel and so the ridges on the reverse side indent the copper vs. the copper mushing down the ridges? -- Dave Another thing that works is using a laser printer - when you put the paper face down in contact with your work and heat the back of the paper with an iron, the toner will transfer to your work. I haven't ever tried that on metal, but it works on wood. Remember you need to print your design in reverse if you have lettering or other non-symmetric items. -- Dave
  7. OK, could not tell from the photo. It looked to me like it was still pointing directly into the middle vs. coming in at a tangent. Either way I'm not sure how much that matters. I think the key to heating is how much time the flame spends in the forge and how complete the burn is. Earlier today I ran across some interesting information in this document: http://azblacksmiths.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/Forge-build.pdf. Here's a quote from that: -- Dave
  8. Yes, when I get my grinder built, I'm planning to just aim the sparks into a metal trash can or bin and contain most of the grit that way, as it doesn't float around in the air, like smoke or wood dust does. Maybe handling grinding particles that way and using a fume extractor for airborne smoke would be a good hybrid approach. -- Dave
  9. I think Wayne was suggesting not that you rotate the forge body, but that you change the way the tube enters so that it's more tangental to the center space, rather than pointing across the middle of it. However, in reading some material Ron Reil has on his website, he doesn't seem to totally agree with that philosophy, and even likes having a hot spot in there, so he can concentrate heat on his stock where he wants it... -- Dave
  10. Good story, thanks! I especially like the photo sequence from rough to finished, and your idea of making your own handle material. Did you use an epoxy resin for that, or something else? -- Dave
  11. Redbate - As I understand it, if you coat with the rigidizer, you would still want to put on a layer of refractory (like satanite) to toughen up the interior and protect from dings from your work. However, I believe you can skip the rigidizer and just use satanite for both purposes (encapsulation and tough coating). That's where I am on my forge build and is the plan I'm going to follow. If someone thinks different, now would be a good time to chime in. Regarding the fiber board on the interior, I don't think you need that. Just the kaowool lined with satanite. However, I will be using a piece of ceramic fiber board as a movable back wall in my tunnel-type forge to allow me to reduce the chamber volume for small work. And I expect that a smaller volume will be the general case. I have a piece of kiln shelf for the floor, but I expect fire brick will work for you there. -- Dave
  12. Looks like it goes well. It will be fun to see it with some hot metal in there vs. the wooden board! -- Dave
  13. Did you mean 1/2" square stock? So you want to make a 4 foot ring out of 1/2" square stock? Probably in industry it would be done on a ring roller, two rolls on the bottom and an adjustable third one - a triangle configuration. Lowering the third roller gives a tighter radius. And I have seen a similar configuration of round bars on a fly press to bend the stock bit by bit (generally cold) until the full circle is formed. Maybe you could do something similar to that with a couple blocks and a hammer and a template to judge whether you're on track or not? -- Dave
  14. Two great minds! I'm glad we came up with the same answer! -- Dave
  15. I think you can just do a volume calculation and be pretty close. You currently have 1 x .75 x 6.5 = 4.875 cubic inches. So your target is .5 x 1 x ? = 4.875, so your answer is 4.875 / .5 = 9.75 inches long. Just doing this in your head you could see that the current cross section is .75 sq inches, and you're going for .5 sq inches, so based on the cross section being 2/3 as much, the length will be 3/2 or 1.5 as much. -- Dave