WoodnMetalGuy

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About WoodnMetalGuy

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    - SE Minnesota

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  1. I like that! Are the braces and stretchers secured by wrapping only, or is there a weld under there? How did you manage any tweaking needed to keep it from rocking on a slightly longer leg? What kind of power hammer is that? Looks pretty hefty... -- Dave
  2. I was thinking that a 50% duty cycle would mean in use half the time, or 5 minutes on, 5 minutes off. And 5 on, 10 off would be 33%. Am I confused about that? -- Dave
  3. I'm inexperienced also, but all I can think of is that it must not be mild steel like you thought. Something that air hardened, maybe? -- Dave
  4. Here's a photo of a Nazel hammer in Bob's shop in WI taken when I was there just over a week ago. He demonstrated a bit on one and it was very controllable. Big machine, though. -- Dave
  5. It's the brand name of a two-part epoxy. -- Dave
  6. The other methods I've seen for making charcoal cook the wood in an oxygen deprived environment. I bet your yield could be improved by doing that. Here's an example link I found with a quick search: youtube charcoal retort -- Dave
  7. Nice, Alan, and Brompton bikes!
  8. Hey - I can help out with that! It's just to the east from where I live in MN. Not hard to find if you drive in the right direction! -- Dave
  9. Yes, I saw that the other day, too. funny how the vises often seem to go missing off these. -- Dave
  10. Wow - looks like it works great. As far as controls go, I wonder if you might want to rig up a foot pedal to control it so you can use two hands to manipulate your work? -- Dave
  11. There was a guy with a bunch of heavy anchor chain like the big links in that photo at the Le Sueur, MN swap meet on April 28th this year. I believe the links were 9" long, and he was asking $20/link or $1500 for the whole chain (60 or 100 feet, maybe, can't remember for sure). Don't know if he sold any, and I don't have any contact information, so this is just FYI. I did wonder how he was going to cut it if someone wanted some... -- Dave
  12. But now that I look closer, I see that it's more than just cutting the slots between the cubes - looks like you have a long slit along the edges of the cubes up the length of the bar - is that right? Seems like the grinder is the best way to do that. I wondered how it was that the cube corners stayed vertical vs. spiraling around. Is that lengthwise slit something like 1/8" deep or do you go deeper than that? -- Dave
  13. Very neat handles. Was not at all obvious to me at first glance how you did that. Thanks for the explanation! I like the contrast between the smooth spirals and the staggered stacks of 'cubes'. I wonder if a bandsaw cut would work as well, or if you need the little bit additional cut out that the curve of the grinder removes? -- Dave
  14. I set up mine to be at belly button height. Just seemed right to me. -- Dave
  15. Sounds like that's talking about adjusting the belt tracking... -- Dave