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I Forge Iron

Show me your forge (gasser)


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Small gas forge made from an old fire extinguisher. Approx 12" long and 4 1/2" diam inside the Kaowool lining. Hand forged (fullered) bell and 3/4" tubing on the naturally aspirated burner. Have welded out of it just fine but generally do my welding with the coal forge.

Total cost, $8 for the hose. Nothing fancy. This little bugger will work me right into the ground. Also heats the shop in the winter.

Also have a commercial Johnson Forge "2 Wide" two burner forge if needed.

Also have a 10" pipe, blown gas forge around here somewhere in pieces but haven't needed it for years and years.


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I have three - two bean cans and a "balloon time" forge. The bean cans are lined with one inch of kaowool, while the balloon forge is lined with two inches. One of the beaners has a 1-inch brick floor and the ballooner has the same. burner for the beaners is a propane torch from home depot and the ballooner has a rex price shorty

IMG_2367.JPG IMG_0488.jpg

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I've got three gas forges, one purchased, 2 home-built.

first is my NC Tool Co Whisper baby

next is a 2 burner venturi forge


Lastly is my single burner blown propane forge that I made specifically for forge welding billets for blades.





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This could be a nice Blueprint. Please consider sending it to Glenn for a Tuesday nite session.

I have a few more photos I want to take before I submit the blue print and I am taking them this weekend when I assemble one of these at the YesterYear Hammer In. (as long as I don't botch ammo can cutout tomorrow )

As a side note. Since I always have a bit of clay and kaowool left over.
The first 2 people to post a reply here and bring a bean can for a bean can forge ready to go I'll line it for them as part of the demo at the YesterYear Hammer In. I would prefer if you have the port for the torch pre drilled and I recommend a couple of bolts as feet to keep it from rolling but that is optional.

The bean can should be a coffee can or any of the larger soup cans.

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This isn't quite a gasser but I'm in the middle of constructing a waste grease/oil forge. Here's the design, its dimensions are about 10 inch diameter by a 15 inches tall, with inside dimensions of 6 inch diameter, by 8 or ten inches tall.

It's exactly like a blown gas forge, but using an oil drip and the oil becomes gas as it enters the forge (the heat)

Merry Being,


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Here's a couple of my gassers. I have been building this round style since around 2000. I like using 20lb. propane tanks for the 2 burner. This three burner is a cut down 100 lb. tank. The 2 burners will heat 12-16 long sections and the 3 burners will do 18 to 24. Welding is no problem, depending on the size as to how fast. With the 2 burner I can weld 1/4" chain within about 5 minutes. Larger material takes a little longer. 1" square, about 30 minutes. The 3 burner has a 3" wide slot cut out of the one side for odd shapes.

I have been using this type of burner tips since around 1994. The burner tips are 11/2" black pipe flattened to about 1/8".

I use blowers from Kayne & Son and barbecue regulators set at 11" water column, which is about 1/2 pound in pressure. The oriface is 1/8". I use about 1/2 gallon of propane per hour for the 2 burner and about a pound per hour on the 3 burner.




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This is my entirly home made (scrounged parts) effort - got a few good pointers from the folks at forgemagic when designing it,

Photo 1
(big mains gasser in the background) the lil one is made from a gas cylinder - the only 'original' bit of its construction that im aware of is that I cut a 2" band from the tank when I split it, welded it round the outside to create a 'lip ' for the end of the cylinder to sit in. door is 4" sq pipe

the 'back' door is 4 x 2" door slot, again cut from a piece of box section and let in. the whole think is lined with 2" wool, a coating of firebrick adhesive / cement stuff and a lick of itc100

Photo 2
home made venturi, still not quite right. (at a very low PSI,) concentric ring flame holder.

Photo 3
this is it just lit -

Photo 4
up to heat !

there are problems with this forge, it gets to 1350 (according to the thermocouple from the big gasser) so it welds, but, there is a big hot spot, im going to change the burner to 3'clock position to get more swirl and hopfully keep the flame in the forge longer. (pointers from britishblades.com ta fellas)

Ive been advised I need more air to the burner (or a smaller jet) so will sort this, if its not noticably better I will stick a blower on it,

possibly a Jymm Hofman type burner - cheers for the pics over at forgemagic Jymm

Its a work in progress really - but I quite enjoy tinkering with it (it wouldnt be fun to just buy one now would it! )





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  • 5 months later...

Here's mine. Castable liner 3" thick with 2 injected Reil style burners. I added the Inswool blanket as an experiment to get more heat. Seem to help but welding still takes a lot of gas. Fire box is about 4" high x 8" wide x 12" deep.



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I have several forges I have made to accomodate my forging needs.

The forging stand has three forges. The top forge is a clam shell, made from a 14" pipe that has been squashed to oval (2" of kaowool with a refractory base). The lower forge is an 8" pipe, with 30" of heated space (one inch of kaowool with a refractory shelf). The smaller forge on the right side is an 8" OD pipe, with 2" of kaowool (it's the oldest and most used of my forges). I use amospheric burners with simple manifolds (when there is more than one burner), with alcon needle valves and gas shutoff valves on each burner. When there is a manifold, I also use a larger needle valve to reduce the gas flow to all burners at once.

The individual forge is a small (6" outside dia pipe, 7" long) forge with 1" of kaowool and a soft brick bottom. I can use this forge on a table, or a stand (1" pipe coupler welded on the bottom).

I use a high pressure regulator and quick connects with the hose (if you use these, be sure they are safe for propane).




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I am just finishing up work on this five burner natural gas blown forge.
It is made from a 12 inch casing, 24" long.
137cfm fan.
3inch kaowool insulation.
The fuel/air system has a manual control and an auto control. I can set the manual control to maintain a set low temp and employ the pid control when I want to operate in the welding temperature range. When I shut the pid off the forge drops down to the lower manual temperature setting.
Happy to answer any questions.



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