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I Forge Iron


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About Torin

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    Between Allentown and Philly PA


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  1. Ernie Leimkuhler has a nice article on making an anvil from solid stock. http://www.metalwebnews.com/howto/anvil1/anvil2.html http://www.stagesmith.com/gallery/shop_projects/anvils/anvil_3/ http://www.stagesmith.com/gallery/shop_projects/anvils/anvil_4/index.html Much safer than trying to deal with molten steel.
  2. I'll agree. I bought one the same style and weight at the Abana2K conference and I've been very happy with it!
  3. That looks very nice bigcity. I remember (at least I think I remember) Thomas Powers recommending those election sign metal posts as great free stock for projects like that.
  4. Yep, CO2 is a gas that your lungs expel as waste product from the hemoglobin in your blood. CO is a gas that binds to your hemoglobin and doesn't let go. It prevents it from transporting oxygen to your cells. If too much CO binds that way, you can no longer get enough O2 to your cells and you die. Worse, you don't feel short of breath, so it hard to tell when it is happening. I keep a CO detector in the same area as my forge. If it goes off, I shut the fire off and walk away, immediately!
  5. Chinobi, I'd give it a go. You can keep the old wingnuts and swap back if you don't like it. But it has been the single best thing I've ever done with that saw. It has been a dream to use ever since I switched.
  6. I have one I got from Rio Grande, but I was always having a hard time getting clamps tight enough on the blade to keep it tensioned. I finally replaced the screws they had with socket head cap screws. I think it was a metric thread. Anyway, tightening them with an allen wrench is much easier than using my fingertips.
  7. Update, I got the low pressure piston out. Before cleanup I found the broken section of the ring, or at least part of it I'm thinking at this point that the aluminum chunk I found was a piece gouged out of the piston face. The oil grunge came off pretty easy, this is just after rinsing it off with solvent and a nylon brush I included my finger for a size reference The rest of the patina came off after some light rubbing with an ultra-fine scotchbrite pad. And a close up again of the cause of my problems. It took a little bit of work, but I got the bugger out!
  8. Well, what I do is cut away the surface of the billet with a face mill using carbide cutting inserts. Scale, and flux don't stand up to it at all.
  9. I have heard of boiling the piece in water, assuming you are using borax, but I haven't tried it.
  10. Well, I haven't found the source for the metal bits that caused my current problem, but I did find the source for some of the older dents.
  11. I'll post a better write-up when I've had some sleep, but here is what it sounds like: http://www.panix.com/~torin/comp/ I found this in the main bore: And this is what that metal has been doing.
  12. My first gas forge was a natural gas forge I bought from Ron Reil (he of the gas burner page). Other than being a commercial type forge, I'm not sure what safety features it had, but I commend you for doing a fabulous job of setting in safety features on your forge. On this side of the pond, I believe most places run house side pressures of about 4-7" of WC.
  13. Here is the top of the head from both sides: This is the view from the air filter intake: And this is what the oil looks like. Nice an clean: Well, it was easier to see the oil before it was resized. Oh well.
  14. These are the documents I've got to go along with the compressor from Quincy. The QR Instruct is the manual/troubleshooting guide. The 390-100 is the parts list and drawings for my 390 head. QR INSTRUCT.pdf 390-100.pdf
  15. I know that the gasket set will have pretty much nothing to do with the problem I've got, but I figured I might as well replace them as long as I'm going to be taking it apart. Oil level is good, and the oil is clear. It probably hasn't run 20 hours since the last oil change. I don't really use it unless I'm using the power hammer.
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