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I Forge Iron

Dave Hammer

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Everything posted by Dave Hammer

  1. Click on this.... http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=drill+sfm+chart&id=48786EF6A85182E2E673D8C5244678A3098B861B&FORM=IQFRBA#view=detail&id=3C726C517045F2D2E32B5525C10B4372E8DA7AE3&selectedIndex=1
  2. Nice work Harris! Your hotcut profile is a great one. One thing, if you grind (or sand) it to a sharper profile, remember to dull the cutting edge down to about a 64th of an inch (that way, the edge is less likely to dent or fold over when you use it. I just do this by raking it lightly across a fine (100-120 grit) sanding belt after the grinding is done.
  3. Frosty.... I don't know what you are reading, but I suggest you read the following MSDS. Zirconium Silicate MSDS http://www.pshcanada.com/MSDS/Zircopax%20Plus.pdf (This is one for Zircopax) This is part of the document. PRTMARY ROUTES OF EXPOSURE: Skin: No Eyes: no Inhalation: Yes Ingestion: Yes TARGET ORGAN (S) EFFECTS : zircconium compounds-Skin, respiratory system Silica-Respiratory system CARCINOGENICITY STATUS : The following compound (s) are listed as carcinogens by NTP, IARC, OSHA or all-: crystaline Silica ( IARC) POTENTIAL, HEAITH EFFECTS: WARNING ! DO NOT INHALE DUST! This product contains small amounts of Crystalfine Silica. Crystalline Silica is known to cause cancer and is associated with the cronic lung disease silicosis. symptoms of silicosis include chronic cough, dyspnea, wheezing and respiratory tract infections, such as tuberculosis. Individuals with pre-existing respiratory conditions may have increased sensitivity to crystafline silica exposure. Other MSDS speak to eye and skin irritants. These are two other MSDS for zirconium silicate. http://tamceramics.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/TAM_Zircon_0612_MSDS.pdf http://www.lagunaclay.com/msds/pdf/3rawmat/adry/mzircgm.pdf There are other MSDS online that have varying descriptions of hazards. I feel, as someone who is showing how to use products, a strong responsibility to EMPHASIZE any hazards (however small) that may be known or documented. Based upon these MSDS, I believe there is dangerous health impacts if this product is used without significant caution. I worry about this because if we minimize discussion about the hazards, fewer people will take precautions.... and many people will take none. I am not Chicken Little screaming the sky is falling, the cautions are documented. I am someone who worries about people who will not take proper precautions and may end up with serious repercussions or cancer down the road.
  4. Your forge will serve you well. It's the same as I used for many years....
  5. .Sorry Harris.... I didn't mean to hijack your thread....
  6. There is a series of videos about a forge I call the Super C. My channel is djhammerd. If you search, using the channel name, you should see all of them (forge build, lining, floor and doors and product sources). I've made forges like this from both cylinders and square tubing. The lining video shows how to use the multi-layered refractories. I have since just used one layer of Zirconium Silicate (over rigidizer) with great results. One other change.... I no longer cement in the floor. I just lay it on thermal blanket, so it can easily be changed out (like for using a separate floor when I forge weld). I do rigidize the ends of the thermal blanket on the bottom. ANH has a rigidizer called InsTuff. I bought some to see how it worked. Don't use that for the binder for Zirconium Silicate, it's diluted compared to what I recommend in the videos. IMHO, Colloidal Silica is a better product for this anyway (for both rigidizer and binder).
  7. Zircopax is a brand name for zirconium silicate. Earlier this year, I put videos up on YouTube describing how it can be used, along with other chemicals, to line propane forges. In the lining video, I apply zirconium silicate over rigidized thermal blanket, then put on a thin layer of refractory mortar, after which another layer of zirconium silicate is applied. The sandwiched layering is used by a glassworker I know who builds glory holes. A single layer of zirconium silicate can be used over rigidizer in small forges. It is an amazing refractory. I will strongly caution though, that these are dangerous chemicals and you must protect yourself appropriately or you are putting your health at risk. Using proper cleanup procedures are equally important also. Please read the Material Safety Data Sheets (MSDS) for these products before using them....
  8. Randy McDaniel is selling some of his blacksmith equipment... His website doesn't reflect it yet, but if you send him a message or email, he will send you a price list. Randy's shop is near Reading, PA. Pick up only. www.drgnfly4g.com
  9. The Brotherhood of Friendly Hammermen forged a large split cross last weekend at the IBA Blacksmith Conference in Tipton, IN. It was a sight to see. If you are interested in seeing a team work together, watch this...
  10. I completely agree with Frank Turley. Making various types of tongs will test your mettle. There are many blacksmith books that show differing types of tongs. If you don't have the books (even if you do), use BING to search for "blacksmith tongs", then display the results as images. You can page down and look at the images as presented, or click on one to get a larger image of one of the pictures and then click on the ">" on the right side of the image to bring up one picture at a time. There are even some progression pictures (showing the steps you go through to make tongs) if you look enough.
  11. Wrought iron IS on eBay most of the time. These are few of recently completed items... www.ebay.com/itm/31-lbs-Very-Large-WROUGHT-IRON-up-to-2-1-8-dia-Anvil-Blacksmith-Forge-T-/221221388695?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3381d28197 www.ebay.com/itm/12-ANTIQUE-VINTAGE-WROUGHT-IRON-1-2-X-1-2-100-YRS-BLACKSMITH-ANVIL-TONGS-/140958415239?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20d1c6b987 www.ebay.com/itm/9-Lbs-Old-WROUGHT-IRON-Round-Square-Flat-Blacksmith-Anvil-Forge-Knife-Ax-p-/321124264407?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ac47f69d7 www.ebay.com/itm/20-lbs-Old-WROUGHT-IRON-FLAT-STOCK-1-2-X-1-3-4-Etc-Blacksmith-Tomahawk-Ax-W-/321121283046?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ac451ebe6 I would expect more to be up soon. If you are impatient, you might try sending a message to a seller from one of these ads...
  12. If you are going to try to forge wrought bar to 1/6th of an inch (and yes, it can be done), be sure you start with a very highly-refined wrought iron. A cut and bend (till breaking) procedure should show very small fibers (if any). Wrought iron can be bought on eBay (no listings tonight), but I'm not sure you would find highly-refined there.
  13. I'm kinda partial to this one.... About 27" long, 30" tall.
  14. Long VS short handles.... There is definitely a divide in opinions among everyone on this. A short handle (actually choked up) and held loosely works best for me (to avoid stress). I do, however, have friends that are professional smiths that go the other way and feel strongly about it.
  15. The following company sells SS posts (meant to be welded in or on the forge body) and ceramic buttons that slide onto those posts. Nichrome wire can be used to hold the buttons on individually or wired to the next post.... ANH Josh Blankenship (540) 375-2107 2001 Salem Industrial Drive Salem, VA However.... Eventually, every structure will fail if you sustain high enough heat, including the posts, wire, thermal blanket and any coating you put on it. Personally, I consider lining a consumable with a life expectancy dependent upon use and temperatures sustained. I use sodium silicate to "glue" thermal blanket to forge bodies (see videos referenced above), then put on a refractory coating for efficiency. If the forge is run hot for a long time and high heat radiates through the thermal blanket to the forge body, the sodium silicate will chrystalize and fail to hold the blanket in place. I have, more recently than the Super C lining video, started recommending using nichrome wire staples (see simple forge lining video) or the posts referenced above in addition to the sodium silicate for those of us that use extreme heat for extended periods.
  16. Look here... http://www.blacksmithing.org/Articles/ViewArticles.htm To twist without a vise, make two twisting bars... with one of plugged into your hardy hole.
  17. From the looks of your design, you are going to use brick to make your forge. I assume you are using soft firebrick (IFB) for the sides and top. I would recommend you use soft firebrick for the ends also (the forge will heat up faster if you do). It appears you may be considering using thin hard brick for the floor. That is fine, but I also recommend using a layer of soft brick under the hard brick if you do. The hard brick will need to be heated pretty much all the way through (to forging temperature) before anything you lay on it will be heated to forging temperature. That heat will be conducted to the table below. I recommend using soft brick on a metal surface under the thin hard brick. If you are not going to be forge welding in this forge, I would recommend using the soft fire brick for the floor of the forge rather than the thin hard brick. If fact, you could find some hard brick that is only 1/2 inch thick to use as a small platter when you want to forge weld (I don't know where to tell you to buy this, but I know it is available). Since your burn chamber (as drawn) is less than 500 cubic inches, two 3/4 inch venturi burners should heat your forge just fine. I would put them about four inches from each end of the forge. I use what I call a free form forge when I need a large forge for my projects (normally, I use a small round forge). If you are curious, I have a video on YouTube, showing how I construct it. My Youtube channel is djhammerd. Just look for the "Free Form Forge" video. If you design your burner setup so you can shut off one burner, you can easily use 1/2 of your burn chamber for the active forge. Just cut (or file) a soft firebrick down enough so you can slide it in from one end. Even with a little space around it (enough to allow you to slide it in), it will work perfectly. Good luck with your project.
  18. Unless you have already built it, I suggest you build a smaller forge, especially if this is your first one. I do most of my forging from a burn chamber of about 160 cubic inches, which is made from 9 inches of an 8.5" OD cylinder with soft brick for doors (2" of thermal blanket for insulation and a refractory floor). You will save fuel and will be up to forging temperatures much faster.
  19. Randy.... If you are interested in a tire hammer, Mike Shipe (Bel Air, MD) makes and sells them.... What are you actually looking for?
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