Fred Rowe

I thank you for the information. I'll forward the number to him. Fred

Hi, I am working with a guy in South Africa who has a Blue Max 155. All of the air handling valves and the like are missing from the machine. He is trying to get pictures of the hose arrangement and the valves and so forth so he can get the machine running. I am looking for someone who would be willing to take a some pics that would help this guy get his machine back on line. I have the 100 lb model Big Blue that I bought new in 2000 but the air handling arrangement is totally different. Regards, Fred I live in S/E Ohio

Thanks for the feedback guys. I am going to move the set point for tempering to 1000 degrees which should give around 42 hrc. I am trying to find the trade off point where I get the most abrasion resistance with the least brittleness. This is for the bevel grinding clamp I make. Soon as it cools down this evening I'll run some file test in the shop between the 500--800-- and 1000 degree tempers. Fred

As you raise the set temperature for tempering 01, from 500fh.=Hrc57 800fh.=HRC50 1000fh.=HRC42; what happens to the abrasion resistance as the hardness goes down? If 01 is in the normalized state how much abrasion resistance does it possess compared to hardened 01? I would appreciate your insight, Fred

I would treat an axle, to make it ductile enough, to absorb the torque applied to it. Being in a hardened condition, has no advantages here. Even the small amount of carbides the 1018 would produce when hardened has little bearing on the piece functioning as an axle. If you don't know the condition the steel is in now, I would normalize it. You can't go wrong doing this. You'll end up with and axle that will flex a little without breaking, because you have produced a ductile grain structure in the steel Heat the piece to 1450fh[none magnetic] let cool in still air. It only needs to get under a thousand degrees to change structures then back up to none magnetic and let it cool again. Have a good one, FRed

Both of the blades on these boot knives were forged from HD primary chain. They were made without powder, just fluxed and put under the press. The handles are red mallee and sea cow, with copper and black fiber spacers for contrast. The smaller of the two is 8 1/4" the other one is 10 1/2" overall. Happy to answer any questions and thanks for L:D:DKing, Fred

Building your forge with both a manual and automatic [pid] option, has many advantages; but the key word is control. I run my forge on manual, most of the time; adjusting the air with the manual side rheostat and the gas with the manual side needle valve. When the temperature needed, is in the 14 to 18 hundred degree range, I find the manual side controls to be the best option. When I am working in the 1800 and above range, I use the automatic [pid controlled] option. When using the auto option, you are using the manual controls for your base temperature, with the auto side adding the extra gas/air mixture to bring and hold the forge to set temperature. “Make sure to wire your system with safety in mind”. When I activate the main electrical switch, for this system, three things take place: the pid is turned on, the blower fan turns on and electrical current is sent to the switch that will send power to the main gas solenoid, when I am ready to light the forge. When you wire your system in this manner, you can’t turn the gas on without the blower fan running. The auto side has an inline switch that allows you to turn it off and on at will, while still allowing the pid to be used as a thermometer. Each burner on your forge should have its own needle valve. This makes “tuning” your forge much easier. Each burner operates slightly different, depending on its location in the forge body. Forge atmosphere is readily adjustable with this system. Installing two rheostats on the blower fan is not a necessity, but it does give you just a little more control on the auto side. Without the second rheostat, the fan will operate at max when the pid is activated. My main objective, when I started building this system, was: No Whoosh, when the pid turned the gas, off and on. This always made me a little nervous. I was looking for a set up that would maintain a base temperature, which I could set manually and that would be in operation as long as the forge was lit, along with an auto controlled [pid] option that would add the extra gas/air mixture, to the system, that would bring the forge to set temperature. I got more than I bargained for. The control options are endless. Vulcan’s Chariot will hold set temperature from 1400 to 2400 fh. within two degrees. You can also adjust the forge atmosphere to whatever your need may be. It is obvious, I am not an artist. [loud laugh] If I can help to clarify the drawing, give me a yell. Take the time to study it first. It took me a bit to figure it out when Bladesmith first got me started on it. It is in reality quite simple. Thanks again Stacy. It has been a very enjoyable project. Fred Rowe <-Bethel Ridge Forge->

It is funny; the little stories that run through your mind while you are standing at the anvil, pounding away. Glad you liked this one. Fred

I just can't believe it; nine years and their dumping me. I'm not that old, not in bad shape, for my age. You should see my replacement! The pretty face was just to much for them to resist. Sure, I'll admit, she has a nice body and all; but looks aren't everything. I've taken the brunt of the abuse for years. It's been me, thats taken all the heat for them. I can hear them talking, about her, in there. Stupid men, oohing and awing over her. They'll be sorry, they got rid of me. I just know they will. Reflecting: After forging a few large blades using the new 300 lb anvil with the pretty face on it; I suddenly realized that I missed the usefulness of the old sway backed hundred pounder, the one sitting out on the garage floor. I had learned to use that swayback to my advantage to put the "rite curve" to the spines of my big blades. I put her back inside this morning, right next to the new one. I know it sounds dumb; but I thought I heard a sigh of contentment come from that old swaybacked anvil. Fred :D

Anhydrous is a totally different product to use than is the hydrated borax. I have used both. One sticks and flows when applied to hot steel. The other curls up, falls off and blows around the room creating its own snow storm. At 2.50 a pound for anhydrous borax, I think I will forgo the heating and crushing process, and just put the flux to use when it arrives at my shop. Fred

It is ok to spend your money at the local walmart, if you are so inclined. Personally, I like to support the many small businesses that make up the knifemaking community. Also, I don't know what type of binders are added to borax in order to use it as a laundry detergent. I'll take mine in the purest form I can get. Adding another variable to forge welding is something I try to avoid. Fred

You can purchase anhydrous borax from this location. Mark's Forge Anhydrous is nicer to work with. They have removed most of the water so it does not bubble, but flows like honey instead. It stays on the steel and does not get into the air as much either. I have a ton of metallurgical coke sitting on the basketball court, that you can have. A bit of a drive I must admit:o:D Anyone in my area that is interested in the coke, give me a holler. Fred

It sounds like hydraulic lock. All the fluid leaked from the push side of the cylinder. Low fluid level in reservoir due to loss during bleed off. Fred

Excellent idea using the idle circuit. Simple and effective. Fred

Brian, I am a muscle car era kid and yes the forge was built to give the impression of a "race car engine". With its flame paint job and shiny tubing induction system I can reminisce about my hot rod days while forging a billet. It also sounds hot, when it's running in the 2300fh temperature range. The blower is mounted under the table, below the 3 inch stainless tower. The manifold with the tubes attached is 6" stainless. The last picture shows the wiring "nightmare" hidden under the table. Hope you like the effect, Fred