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I Forge Iron


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Everything posted by imagedude

  1. Is it made by Brooks or Brookes? Are there any patent numbers on it?
  2. The link below suggests that Brooks of Oldbury were making planishing hammers in the 1930s http://www.gracesgui...rookes_(Oldbury) Click on the link then click again on the 'search for page title' link
  3. ~All the planishing hammers that I have seen have been pneumatic. I have seen mechanical shaping hammers but these seem to use either a rubber block or a sandbag instead of a lower anvil. Do you have any photos of the lower dies?
  4. It can work well but you need to work fast. Size 5 or 6 presses seem to offer the best combination of speed and power.
  5. The hole doesn't have a purpose, it was used to hold the anvil during its manufacture.
  6. Keep the banana well oiled to reduce the number of sudden violent hits!
  7. As far as I can tell from the photo your hammer has a similar banana shaped linkage as the Blacker. The further the linkage slides away from the pivot point the greater the amount of travel the hammer has. Your hammer uses leaf springs while the Blacker uses coil springs but essentially the principle is the same. http://www.nevillebarnes.co.uk/hammer.htm
  8. Yes they are and watch my lips, that hammer uses the same sliding linkage.
  9. An interesting looking hammer, it uses a similar sliding linkage to a Blacker.
  10. I believe that there is a company in Italy that still makes mech hammers though they may be importing them from elsewhere. I use a mechanical hammer because I'm not prepared to wait for an air hammer to warm up, I also prefer arc over mig due to versatility, simplicity and improved quality of weld.
  11. Here's Ric Furrer's twister on Youtube:
  12. That induction furnace looks like fun, how long does it take to heat a 1" square bar?
  13. The leaf gallery has been updated: http://www.treeproject.abavic.org.au/leaf-gallery_EU.html
  14. I have 2 of these bar presses, a size 6 and a size 8. A common use was the punching of holes in pots and pans so that the handles could be riveted on. I paid £1 for the one above.
  15. The pick was fitted to the axe along with a new hammer head The new parts will be cleaned in a mild alkali and varnished ready for the winter climbing season Me after a day in the forge
  16. To test the temp of my tempering furnace (my oven!) I first used various Tempilstiks on a piece of steel The steel going into the oven We can see that the temerature indicating crayons suggest a temperature between 266 and 274 Celsius After removing the forge scale again the pick was polished and etched in ferric chloride
  17. Here's a photo of the billet once ground to thickness (an allowance was made for further thickness loss due to heat treating and polishing) The pick was then cut from the billet And filed to shape A bit more sanding and it'll be ready for HT
  18. The billet was twisted Then split down the middle Then the 2 halves were forged together so that what was once the centre of the billet was now on the outside. The steel was then thicknessed under the surface belt grinder
  19. Here's the 15N20 and C20 steel cut to size Here's the billet approaching welding temperature in the forge A couple of videos of the billet being forged under the Blacker powerhammer
  20. I recently found this cast anvil, I think the original pattern was probably a PW anvil. Here we can see the casting sprue and flash which would not be present on an original anvil: Chipping of the iron anvil:
  21. I made a similar stand for my 13" block.
  22. More of an option than a modification.
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