January 11, 201412 yr I hope some one can tell me which would be the most effective penetrating oil to use on this vise. I just dug it out of the ground this fall and want to clean it up then mount it and put it to use.
January 12, 201412 yr Author I may try that method, Thomas. Have you used that method yourself? What types of objects did you remove rust from? Thanks Neil.
January 12, 201412 yr Good Morning, If you are going to clean it the Electrolysis way, here is a link Bad link removed When you are resurrecting a piece of Bish, slow going and patience, works. If you get in a hurry, something will break. A trick that I do is to replace the thrust washer on the threaded section (I actually add to it) with a Throw Out Bearing (a replaceable roller thrust bearing, from Clutch Assembly). Talk to your local mechanic and ask him to save some of the old Clutch Parts for you. Be patient, they don't replace a Clutch Assembly every day. Neil
January 12, 201412 yr My favorite for tools and intricate items. For "plain" items I'll use a wire wheel on my big angle grinder
January 19, 201412 yr Electrolysis is definitely the way to do. A large tupperware box can be bought at wallyworld, often sold as storage trunks and the like. I use rebar for my anodes simply because it's cheap and easy to get scraps of. The best part is that you can always use the trunk for it's intended purpose once the job is done!
January 19, 201412 yr PB Blaster penetrating oil and a little patience. Sayings and Cornpone Standard English - scriber Good Ole Boy English - scratch awl Incorrect English - scribe
January 19, 201412 yr Hidden by Steve Sells, January 19, 2014 - problem corrected Good Morning, If you are going to clean it the Electrolysis way, here is a link http://antique-engines.com/electrol.asp I have done this before and it works well in a plastic garbage can. Borax soap from the local grocery store (same as used for flux, 20 Mule Team). Use a trickle charger for the power source and use a piece from your scrap pile for the annode. This will remove the rust, it may or may not free it up. When you are resurrecting a piece of Bish, slow going and patience, works. If you get in a hurry, something will break. A trick that I do is to replace the thrust washer on the threaded section (I actually add to it) with a Throw Out Bearing (a replaceable roller thrust bearing, from Clutch Assembly). Talk to your local mechanic and ask him to save some of the old Clutch Parts for you. Be patient, they don't replace a Clutch Assembly every day. Neil tried your link and got a 403 and 404 error...... Forbidden You don't have permission to access /electrol.asp I have done this before and it works well in a plastic garbage can. Borax soap from the local grocery store (same as used for flux, 20 Mule Team). Use a trickle charger for the power source and use a piece from your scrap pile for the annode. This will remove the rust, it may or may not free it up. on this server. Additionally, a 404 Not Found error was encountered while trying to use an ErrorDocument to handle the request. Apache/2.2.26 (Unix) mod_ssl/2.2.26 OpenSSL/0.9.8e-fips-rhel5 mod_auth_passthrough/2.1 mod_bwlimited/1.4 FrontPage/5.0.2.2635 mod_fcgid/2.3.6 Sun-ONE-ASP/4.0.3 Server at antique-engines.com Port 80
January 19, 201412 yr Is it just me or is the mount for it upside-down? Really awesome thing to dig up, though. :D
January 25, 201412 yr Author neg, yes you are right the mount is upside down. Thanks for those links caotropheus. Thanks for all the suggestions everyone.
January 25, 201412 yr The upside down way of mounting can be purposeful if the leg vise is attached to a wooden bench top. The three or four bolt attachment holes can pierce the bench and be counterbored at the top to keep the bench clear of the mounting plate. So, when installed, is it upside down or just a different, perhaps better way? This method of attachment to a workbench is shown and talked about in the excellent book, With Hammer in Hand by Charles F. Hummel, page 203.
January 25, 201412 yr What Thomas said. My new favorite penetrating oil is 50/50 auto transmission fluid and acetone. cheap too
January 26, 201412 yr My first post vice I found in an old barn for $40. It had no mount, no spring and was completely seized. I spent every evening for a month spraying every concoction of rust penetrator on it. At the end of the month it was still locked up and smelled a bit weird. I eventually got tired of making dead spots in my lawn and threw the whole thing on my forge, covered it with coal, and roasted it for a bit. Once the joint was a dull red, I persuaded it open with a small sledge. I really can't tell you for sure if the rust busters did not help as they might have. But judging from the scale that dropped out of the joint when persuading, I don't think they did much. The real way to go is that electrolysis setup. There is not really much involved in setting the tank up and making it work. There is also lots of information out there to help setup one up. If I were faced with the same challenge as I had before, with the knowledge I now have about electrolysis, I would choose the electrolysis method hands down for beating rust and freeing up anything that is rusted.
February 21, 201412 yr coldironkilz: a bit late, but I just finished cleaning up a #75 post vise using an electrolysis setup. Worked great. Happy to share pics, lessons learned, corrections to some poor advice on electrolytes on youtube, etc.
February 21, 201412 yr Author RogueRugger, I have been wetting the vice with PB blaster on each occasion I am in the forge. I haven't taken any further steps as yet. We are still in winter and water in the shop freezes overnight if left. Still no change in the jaws (they will not open). I will keep working on it. Would you share your pictures and experiences on this thread as I continue to monitor.
March 1, 201412 yr Ya know, Cold, you bring up an interesting query. Water in your shop freezes at night because it's cold..... But we're not talking about water. Will water freeze if there's an electric current and washing soda in it? What's the science on that? Of course, I won't be able to experiment on that for another year as our winter is officially over down here!
March 2, 201412 yr Author VaughnT, I don't know the answer to your query. I assumed based on one of the video's (see post #11)that the water would freeze. I don't think the solution we speak of is acidic therefore it would freeze. But let me stop there as we are way beyond my pay grade.
March 2, 201412 yr Adding stuff to water depresses it's freezing temp---basic chemistry I don't know about electricity save for it's heating effects. I guess it depends on how strong a solution and how cold it is---even seawater will freeze if cold enough!~
February 17, 201610 yr Author I finally got this beast taken apart. It was really seized up. All the parts look to be fine condition. Ill clean it up and make a stand for it.
February 17, 201610 yr From the picture the screw looks nice, should work great after you clean it up. Nice find.
February 17, 201610 yr Author Flankem, yes the screw is in excellent condition. Very fortunate all the pieces are sound. Lots of rust but no rot.
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