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I Forge Iron

Post vise needs help


coldironkilz

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Greetings Cold,

Easy fix.. Just cut a shim out and put on the left side where the bolt goes through . About .020 normally works 2in square with a bolt hole.. No need to over tighten the bolt just snug.. It should align the vice jaws .. Give it a try. 

Forge on and make beautiful things,

Jim

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Or you can use it as it stands for probably 80%+ of the smithing I do.    I tell students that just have to have perfection to drop blacksmithing and become a machinist there people will pay you for ten thousandths of an inch accuracy!  "The Thickness of a worn shilling" was the tolerance quoted for old blacksmith made steam engine cylinders and that's good enough for most of my work.

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You learn a lot about "fitting" when you do blades; but I like the look better than the "milled exactly" stuff.  There are some interesting discussions about the early days of interchangeable parts in print and how they were supposed to do away with the time spent fitting parts to an item.(but didn't in some of the earliest contracts let out by the US government)

For me blacksmithing is more about hitting hot metal than about having a perfect set up  and not hitting hot metal cause you are always trying to get your tools "just so". I had a friend who used to chide me about the state of my shop till I pointed out to him that he spent more hours cleaning his shop each week than I got to spend in my shop total and so I would skew my time towards forging and live with a shop far from spotless.

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Even if the vise is OK 90% of the time the 10% can be very annoying. My own problem is that the moving jaw is slightly wobbly sideways and this means that a round piece will turn. I intend to shim it thight when I get the time. Plan B is to ream the holes and turn an oversize bolt. I do not trust my ability to heat and close the gap with sufficient precision.

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Well I have been known to heat a loose joint and use my screwpress to close things up and I have heat shrunk in a plug and re-drilled the pivot hole on the moving jaw leg for a bad vertical offset; but I have 11 postvises and so working one over does not impede my smithing on other things.  One meeting we even forge welded a greenstick fractured lower leg and wrapped a strip of wrought iron around it and welded that on too as extra support.

What I am trying to counteract is a growing tendency of people showing up here terribly worried about things that don't matter much---must be half a dozen lately wanting to weld up or mill their anvils' edges when Practical Blacksmithing by Richardson, published 125 years ago, says "is anyone dumb enough to still want sharp edges on their anvil".  (And I certainly would not advise someone starting out to worry about their anvil edges until they have mastered hammer control!)  Or to put it another way "Don't let the best be the enemy of the good!"

Now at breakfast I was looking through an excerpt of Diderot's encyclopedia, (published in the late 1700's in France) and ran across 3 examples of postvises that basically looked just like "modern" ones save for a tendency to mount the spring coming up from the joint rather down from the mounting plate.  Going to check them against Moxon tonight who is 100 years earlier and English.

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From Wikipedia; A shim is a thin and often tapered or wedged piece of material, used to fill small gaps or spaces between objects.[1] Shims are typically used in order to support, adjust for better fit, or provide a level surface. Shims may also be used as spacers to fill gaps between parts subject to wear.

I wouldn't want to "take lightly" a previously unknown "shop tip" from a more qualified/experienced craftsman.

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Like with powerhammers sometimes the wear pattern on moving parts do not support use of a shim without refacing to a uniform surface, in which case heating and adjusting with the proverbial larger hammer may be called for. However the blacksmith's truism applies "There is only 1 correct way to do anything in smithing and that is: Any Way That Works!"

 My last postvise, bought at quad-state a couple of years ago, had a heavily rusted pivot area---which was kind of neat as you could see the multiple pieces of wrought iron the pivot area of the moving jaw had be forge welded up out of.  It was a "robustus" version of the vise with the leg over 1" in diameter IIRC and is currently enjoying the sunlight and dryness of New Mexico bolted to a telephone pole holding up the carport of my rental house---which is rather a close parallel with the 6.5" jaw vise I bought at Quadstate a number of years ago that is bolted to the telephone pole holding up the roof on my shop up at the house I own...

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The telephone poles hold up the roofs not the vises.  As they are well seated in the ground they make a strong and stable thing to bolt a vise to for some heavy work. The one I did is 5' in the ground and then concreted around; we get a bit of wind in these parts in the spring...

Screwpress is just a nice large H frame with a 42" diameter toroid on top with dependent handles---most excellent to thwop oneself with if you are concentrating on a set up and it's easing down on it's own...I slip some pipe insulation on the handles some times.

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I wish I could visit your library Thomas.

You gave me the idea that I could use my other vise to close the gap in a controlled way. Thank you. However, shimming will still be plan A. Besides, the more annoying thing about it is the jury-rigged leg that prevents me from using the pivot in the mounting. I wonder when I get the time to fix it.  

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  • 2 weeks later...
On February 25, 2016 at 2:55 PM, coldironkilz said:

Today I got the vise put back together. It's functioning well but as you can see there is a little problem with the jaws.

100_1893.JPG

100_1894.JPG

I have a vise that doesn't line up just like yours. I would actually recommend not fixing it as I find it comes in handy sometimes to have the jaws offset.

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