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Your leather apron?


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Radiant heat from a fire can heat up a lot of things. Anyone standing with their back to a stove to get warm during the winter can tell you that the hot cloth of the jeans does not touch the leg till about the second step. Then comes the dance where each move causes the hot cloth to touch the leg again, increasing the tempo of the dance.

A shirt wet with sweat plus radiant heat will generate temperatures that can range from uncomfortable to steam. Working big stock requires big fire and produces big radiant heat. Many times the bibs are cut small and or not designed for the specialized protection or coverage a blacksmith sometimes needs.

I have used aprons with straps behind the neck and straps crossed behind the back. The straps crossed behind the back are much more comfortable for me. The style and length of the apron does not matter as much as wearing the apron matters. The apron offers no protection folded on the end of a work table or hanging on a hook somewhere.

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Waist to knee, that I picked up for the right price "FREE" from a old technical school that was closing down. Not sure what hide it comes from perhaps cow. I find that my jeans stay a lot cleaner with it on. Only drawback is that at times I could do with a slit in it so as to hold iron between my legs a little better but not doing that all the time so shall leave as it.

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Many years ago, my brother made me a bib type using Tandy's oil finish blacksmith leather. It was monagrammed and I really liked it, but I lost it in a move before I ever really got it broken in. I'd sure love to have it back.
Joseff

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I have used my Red Ram bib apron for years. I consider it an essential tool in the shop. You can use it to carry 'warm' items from workspace to workspace. I don't lose my scribe now that it stays in the bib after use! The other day I was using the angle grinder on a piece firmly held in the post vise. I removed it and saw one little spot that needed a touch up. Yep, you guessed it. Holding it not so firmly in my hand I tried to hit one lick and the grinder got away from me and nicked my thumb and gouged out nice little impression on my bib. I got off easy thanks to the hide of a dead critter.

Also, the 38100 Red Ram Leather Cape mates up nicely with the bib apron for arm and neck protection for welding.

The apron was about $20 and the cape was $30.

Jon

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Pictures! We want PICTURES! :o
Frosty


NOOOO!!!! We DO NOT WANT PICTURES!! :o I'm having a terrible time getting that image out of my head! It's pretty obvious you have never seen Thomas! Beard with anvils braided into them and this CRAZY RED hat with horns...and put a leather mini shirt on that! YIKES!! Hide the women and kids!
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I use a short bib apron I got from a wood working supplier. But being that I'm only 5'4" the apron hits me just right at knee level or a touch higher. It's heavy leather with nice clasp or buckle and no it was not cheep but should last quite a while. After all I don't mind paying for something that will last apposed to cheap that wares out and have to replace over and over. I went with out it once but never again. To hot to many sparks and helps protect your clothing as well as skin.
BillP

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I have a store bought suede Bib type - got if from Centaur Forge and it has worked great but is heavy. I do have three tanned deer hides in the basement that I keep think about as raw material for a custom made (by me) apron but whenever I have time for Blacksmithing activities I just go out and smith and the leather sits - the day will come though for that project, the leather has a long shelf life so I'm not to worried, maybe when I destroy my current apron I'll be motivated to do some leather work - maybe

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I seldom use an apron, but I have a drawer full of t-shirts with burn holes in the front from forge welding. I usually (but not always) use a bib leather apron when I use a wire brush on an angle grinder. I like an apron for that better than having all those little wires stuck in my belly.

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Bib type. My first was your basic grey chrome tanned welders apron from a welding suppliers, but it was quite stiff and being a small chap it was irritating around the sides and armpits. I used it for a couple of years anmd got it moulded to my form, until I burnt a hole straight through at the waist (angle grinder, didn't notice where the sparks were going until my belt buckle got hot! :o )

For the last couple of years my (bib again) apron is made from heavy suede I bought with a batch of leather for sheathes. It's much more supple than the normal aprons and is about the same thickness. Also available in any colour you like :D I based the shape on my old one, but adjusted ot to fit; now runs a little above the knees so that I don't have to lift too much when supporting things between my legs.

I met a smith a few years back who forges in a leather kilt. No trousers underneath (or undies?). I don't thik I'll try it just incase there is a hot or sharp bit on the bar!

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I like to dress as lightly as possible when I'm working, so I only add a leather apron (bib type) when it's probable I'll start myself on fire if I don't (like when forge welding, or grinding, and the sparks cross me).

Leather apron weights "vary" a LOT, which should be a consideration during your choice.

A thought just struck me... it would be easy to attach a small hook (or loop) of some sort to the leather apron's side, at anvil height, to put the end of bar stock in as an alternative to holding a project between our legs (which doesn't work for me because my anvil top is higher than my crotch), or using a metal stand.

HMMM.... That might make wearing an apron more tolerable, and it would save having that stand that creeps in my way when I don't need it.

Edited by djhammerd
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I found a cordura(nylon) farriers apron with leather patches on the thighs a few years ago. I bought it on ebay from user "rjshoeing", in Waller, Texas. It was under $60-70. I have tried full bib aprons and it is just too blasted hot here in South Texas to wear a full leather apron. For most light forging I just rough it out in my jeans or Carhardts.

15830.attach

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  • 4 weeks later...

...
A thought just struck me... it would be easy to attach a small hook (or loop) of some sort to the leather apron's side, at anvil height, to put the end of bar stock in as an alternative to holding a project between our legs (which doesn't work for me because my anvil top is higher than my crotch), or using a metal stand.
...


Potentially good idea there Djhammerd. :)

I was taught a possible way to hold the stock with your legs if the anvil's too high - knock the work down at an angle that it will sit flat on the anvil while you hold the stock between your legs. ;) Of course, that isn't always practical. :rolleyes: But it may help on occasion?
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I have 2 - one for everyday use and one for demos and formal occasions :)

My everyday one is a split leather bib style, knee-length welders apron. I removed the nylon straps and replaced them with leather.

My demo apron is a rough-cut bib style, I cut from a side of leather.

Sam

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