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I Forge Iron


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About blksmth

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    Senior Member

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  • Location
    Grand Island, Nebraska


  • Location
    Grand Island, Nebraska
  • Biography
    Have been blacksmithing since 1992. Retired office worker.
  • Interests
    Woodworking, canoeing, backpacking, skiing.
  • Occupation
    Blacksmith, Refflinghaus Anvil Sales

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  1. To add to my post above, the smooth transition space from the main face of the anvil and the round horn takes the place of a step on a London pattern anvil. Even though a London pattern built in step is very useful at times, the smooth transition is used more often than the step by many smiths that have the smooth transition. When a step is needed in a south German style anvil a block is placed in the hardy hole. The north German anvil is thought of as having an inset round horn which is as if someone stuck a cone on the end of the main face. The top of the cone is typically even with or s
  2. The south German pattern anvil has a smooth transition between the regular anvil face and the round horn. That space forms a flat space in the shape of a triangle usually with a long point and is bordered on the sides by the large radius of the round horrn. The length of the flat triangle depends on the size of the anvil & how well the anvil is made. That triangular space is what sets the south German anvil apart from all others and is generally only found on a few anvils such as Refflinghaus and the true Haberman. It is the main reason the south German anvil is sold as it is a very han
  3. Phillip, I see on your composition of the Rhino anvil the carbon content is 2.8%. I've always read that carbon over about 1.8% indicates cast iron. Is your composition list in error or are the anvils a ductile cast iron?
  4. Brinell of 500 is equivalent to HRC 50 to 51. That would be an anvil on the softer side of anvils. JHM anvils are ductile cast iron which is suitable for an anvil, but not as strong or hard as some cast steel anvils.
  5. I'll be there. Look forward to meeting you. Stop by the Refflinghaus booth.
  6. That looks like a serviceable anvil stand you made of iron. Should you wish to make on of wood, you can get some idea's from http://www.blksmth.com/Anvi_base_preparation.htm . Personally I like anvil stands made from a tree trunk even though I sell 3 legged iron stands similar to the Hofi, Tom Clark, and Brazeal style. If feasible, it is best to bury in the ground, but that is not always possible. It is good if you can fasten the stand to the ground or floor in some way especially when using strikers. If you want to preserve your anvil, it is always necessary to use a hammer softer t
  7. As the USA Ernst Refflinghaus anvil dealer. I am asked to radius the edges of many new anvils. The best product I find for the purpose is the 3M Scotch-Brite surface conditioning disk in the hook and loop style. The discs come in course, medium, and fine. They come in different sizes for different size angle grinders. The size I like is the 7 inch as it lasts much longer than the smaller sizes. A few years ago you could buy the necessary backing pad with each size disc for approx. $40 from most machine shop suppliers. They work great for putting the small radius on the edges of anvils and
  8. Another possible solution besides gas for waianvil would be to use commercial coke. Might be worth a try.
  9. Waianvil sent me a picture of his forge some time ago and asked that I post it here. The chimney appears adequate in size and the hood is reasonable. He possible could have a problem with the height of the chimney, or possibly another building or tree etc. is blocking the wind. Also, the chimney cap could encroach on the opening and cause a problem. Have not seen his set up so don't know about those. Maybe waianvil could talk about chimney height, surrounding buildings etc., and his chimney cap.
  10. has not set their status

  11. One of my first anvils was to have the edges welded up at a affiliate meeting by the experts. Put the anvil in a ring of fire bricks with a propane weed burner inside. Everyone went to lunch. When we checked the anvil it had turned gray and the face lost all it's temper. Then had a soft faced anvil until I replaced it. Just mentioning my mistake so hopefully no one else will make the same one.
  12. 1/3 hp should be more than adequate for that size fan blade. The big blower sold by Centaur forge has a 1/5 hp motor at 3600 rpm, but it has a solid cast aluminum and balanced fan blade. 1100 rpm should not be too fast for the old riveted on fan blades like the one you have. One always has to wonder if the old fan blade will stand up to the rpm, but I have seen other old fans run by an 1100 rpm motor and it seemed to work OK. Give it a try and stand back when you first start it.
  13. These anvils that are fastened down securely should work great. As you, I prefer a stump for mounting an anvil. It is particularly good if it can be buried in the ground 3 ft. or more, but that is not always practical. If you would like to look at another way to level and straighten a stump without access to a commercial saw mill check out: http://www.blksmth.com/Anvi_base_preparation.htm
  14. At least the top 1/2 of the newer Peddinghaus anvils made by Rigid are all 1045C steel (45 points carbon and not much else). The bottom half could have a steel with a lower carbon content. Either way it shouldn't be hard to drill the bottom. Try it and find out. If you are just interested in fastening it to the base or stump you could use 100% silicone caulk and glue it down. Not easy to remove, but quite a few blacksmiths do that. If you want to remove it periodically then chains, bolts and clips, can be used. Personally I would not be satisfied if my anvil were just sitting on a base w
  15. Oh, I forgot. The other ingredients are anhydrous borax with about 10% boric acid powder.
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