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About SK-Buckwheat

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    I am a workaholic
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    Welding & Fabrication

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  1. I use Borax with metal filings in it also, find it works pretty good.
  2. I always wear one when I am working at with hot stuff. That hide takes a lot more heat than mine will. Mine has sleeves, collar down to my knees. This one is the same idea as mine, but mine is blue! :-)
  3. To answer your original question it is about 4140 or slightly better. Yes it can contain nasty crap, but I have welded lots of old well casing and forged sucker rods before also. For forging I pick the ones that are better looking and not pitted. I have made so hard that none of my drill bits would touch it. Just my 2 cents worth.
  4. Also it would probably be easier for you to find a broken leaf spring from a semi truck or trailer, most of the new leaf springs on them are near 1" thick at the center of the spring and near 4" wide. Should make a killer hot cut too.
  5. Bourne101, Glad we could help you out. That hot cut I showed is made out of a piece of very high carbon steel. Probably similar to a leaf spring but I think it may be a bit harder. It is a piece of a farm cultivator shank. It is about 1" thick and 2 1/2" wide. I forged out the end to get the taper and upset the sides to straighten them back out. Then annealed it, brought it back up to critical temperature and tempered it to straw colour. After I got that done I bevel ground around the base and arc welded it onto a 3" square 3/8" thick base plate and then bevel ground my hardy shank and welded that to the base plate. I believe in a base plate on any hard tool that you strike because it spreads the force of the blow over the face of the anvil around the hardy hole.
  6. Forge lighting is actually pretty darn easy. Just go to my Youtube page and pick that video, easier to see it done than explain it. Hope the link works. YouTube - cussedcreekforge's Channel
  7. You got the basic idea of how I do it now. I do get them all stretched to the thickness I want on the anvil, and then there is a concave shape to all the disks. But then I do put them all onto the stem drive them down with a hollow punch and then rivet them down. Then, yes I heat & pull all the petals up into position from the center outward with a pair of small scrolling tongs I made. I was pleased with the end result. With everything all accounted for, from cutting out the disks to the end when all the engraving was done on the base of that one pictured it was somewhere around 15 hours work....maybe I am just really slow.
  8. Also what would work real good that I have had luck with it get your hands on a old McPherson strut or a shock absorber from a vehicle and use the shaft from that. It is good hard steel and I found it makes good punches and chisels. With them I temper to a straw colour. That has worked well for me so far. Welcome to the forum.
  9. The petals are 16 gauge sheet. 5 disks starting at 5" down to 4" I believe it was. Cut 5 petals into each one. Square your stem and square punch the holes in the disks, but position them so the petals will offset over each other. Then heat the disks and draw the petals wider so that they will overlap each other so that they can be brought up in a clockwise rotation. Draw the ends out thin so they are more lifelike too. Put them all on the stem with the petals offset half of their width from the one on top of it Then start in the center and start pulling up the petals and forming the center like normal. Once you are happy with the look of it, start heating the tips of the petals and roll them down a bit. All the heats I done were in the forge. I like to use traditional methods when all possible. The disks were cut out with the plasma though. But that is all. I hope I helped you some here, if you need more clarification just let me know and I will be glad to try and help more.
  10. I will do, I am just headed off to get some sleep here now, but I will try and explain some in the morning after I get the heater lit in the shop and come back in the house for a coffee. Thanks for the interest. :)
  11. That does sound irresistible Frosty. Yeah when I had give up on the forge welds, I did think of putting my ASO up on the forge bed to do it that way. I am going to try that on the next one I do. You might like having a little more daylight than you do up there eh? It is nothing like where you live for scenery though with what I know of AK. I have been down in the Nampa area numerous times over the years. When are you thinking of moving down that way Frosty?
  12. Thanks to Frosty about the opinion that you voiced about it. I appreciate it. I kinda liked that name for my little forge business too. We actually have a little creek that runs just past our place here and it is Cussed Creek. And I thought it was quite fitting....there is some cussing going on out in the shop from time to time:D
  13. Yeah you are right Frosty, it was worth a little smoochin alright. That was my first rose I made, I think it turned out pretty fair. I wanted all forge welds, but I couldn't do it. I had to go start up my welder and hook up the wire feeder. I got one leaf forge welded on really nice with the help of my daughter being my striker. But the base and top leaf I couldn't get those. Part of it I think was the awkward spots I was trying to get into to do them. I did have all of them sticking in the forge, but I just was not able to get them out of the forge and onto the anvil fast enough to weld. They lost welding temperature fast because they were fairly thin material. The whole thing standing on it's base is about 16" high I believe and the rose itself is about 4 1/2" in diameter.