Frosty

Uh NO IAN, I NEVER CoTTect anything in public, what kind of boy do you think I am!? the - the lead to, yes, huh? yes. I make a point of brushing the earth off so it gets a good ground. You READ bear bottle caps? You have way too much time on your hands my friend. It used to bother me when a subject went semantic and lost all value. Getting language/word usage, idioms, etc. strait is a legitimate use for semantics. On the other hand it's all too often a college kid trying to make folk think s/her knows more than they do. In which case I feel "taking the xxxx" is the only proper response. Frosty The Lucky.

You could demo mokume gane at Art on Fire. I'm thinking of messing with melting marbles into stuff. I'm going to cut a few split crosses, Pastor is retiring and I thought one with a glass center would make a nice personal retirement gift. I keep getting ideas for mooshing melty marbles in and think it'd be a crowd pleaser. I picked up a nice stash of light blue, darker blue and clear marbles from the freeby pile at a yard sale last weekend. Maybe a Brian Brazeal dog's head with blue eyes? Should I bring some 1/4" rd. so we can do another basket twist with extruding melty glass? I think I may take a shot at making a Brazeal type slitting punch from the Crucible Rex 95. I'm bringing my peanut grinder and a wet wheel knife sharpener if It still works. Test tomorrow, where's my list? I know I have to finish coating the new bricks, the first clay wash is dry so it should be ready for the kaolin zirconium wash. I found the post from way back and the ratio he was havig good results with is 70% Zircopax to 30% kaolin. Frosty The Lucky.

I don't know yet, I've been prepping for a local event where we have a significant presence. That and the honey do list, a couple sick animals, etc. typical life getting in the way. all my time in the shop has been sorting, arranging, planning and my usual pre-demo stuff. As I recall though it's supposed to be impact resistant but that's MY memory of reading the Crucible sheet. I think I'm going to take a piece with me to the Art On Fire event and an angle grinder and the whet grinder knife sharpener and play with it. It'll give me something else to talk about and I can do it a little at a time while I do my usual demo stuff. I will be getting back once I know how it works. Frosty The Lucky.

Jeff: thinking on paper or Cadd is a good way to go. Are we thinking in Sketchup? I'm relearning Sketchup right now so this is a good exercise for me. My thinking is to lose the roll doors in the high side and make it a single one on the end, with a angle awning roof cover. and do it again on the far end. This gives you through doors and leaves you the option of doubling your shop space by simply adding another low wall and connecting them with a roof and another pair of sliding doors. I'll be building a similar shed roof wood shed, either 10' x 24' or 12' x 20' with a swinging door at the end closes to the house. the low, upwind eve will be 8' and the high side will be 10'. this lets me use standard sheet siding and leave a screened 2' gap on the high side under the eave for ventilation. Not that that has anything to do with your shop but it's similar in a number of ways. Mostly though I've been thinking about a shed roof building for a while and getting back in sync with Sketchup I. . . Nevermine. <grin> Looks like you'll have a nice shop, a little tweeking and it'll shine. Frosty The Lucky.

Looks good Frank. Frosty The Lucky.

I do so love yard/garage sales. Nice scores. Frosty The Lucky.

It is a beautiful hammer, very pro looking. Frosty The Lucky.

Thanks, I remember it now. Good demo piece, especially if you have Vikings in the audience eh? Frosty The Lucky.

Yes it does and probably is. I didn't think of just Googling it till a little later and then couldn't remember in which thread I'd asked. <sigh> According to the Crucible site it's for cutting tools and retains it's hardness and strength at red heat, makes me think it's going to make dandy slitters, hacks and such hot tooling. Thanks, Frosty The Lucky.

Jim: I can't summon an image of a "troll cross" can you post a pic or link us to one please? Frosty The Lucky.

That is some seriously fine work Yves. Well done. Frosty The Lucky.

Alan: would it still be a "return" if you reverse the polarity? It SAYS "ground" right on my welder. Frosty The Lucky.

Welcome aboard, glad to have you. Okay, you've put your general location in the header but you have me stumped. DFW? If you start reading sections you're interested in here be sure to pick a comfy chair, bring a lunch and something to drink, it's a LOT of reading. Frosty The Lucky.

Ian, Ian, Ian, you guys down under must have dinky little bitty forges, that IS broken down. :rolleyes: Frosty The Lucky.

I didn't now him but I'll say a few words for him and ring my anvil. Frosty The Lucky.

Nice recovery Eddie. Well saved sir! Guess I'd better add something to the thread to justify my post. Twists are great crowd pleasers and pineapple twists are show stoppers. Pineapple twists look oh so cool and complicated but are actually simple and fast, perfect for demos. the ladies usually prefer a cable/rope twist, they look cool and feel better to hands not used to sharp corners. Key fobs and bottle openers are always popular. the ladies really like Brian's horse heads as finials, all girls want a pony you know. If you can appeal to folk below the conscious level you're golden. Frosty The Lucky.

Good, I stand relieved Jonathan. I didn't reread the whole thread so I probably just missed the change. Mea culpa. Emulsified asphalt is considered safe for all but potable water once it breaks. Frosty The Lucky.

Right you are Glenn, 451f, Bradbury. It's that stupid TREE's fault I can't keep simple literary references straight. <sigh> Frosty The Lucky.

What, you think I'd replace my trusty old Stockman's pocket knife? We DO know about soap and water you know. Truth is I lost that knife a few decades ago but never stopped using it for whatever needed cutting. Frosty The Lucky.

I encourage you to use poured concrete piers for the the foundation, posts treated like yours are illegal most places and may even have fed regs against using oil. You could end up responsible for any and all oil contamination for as long as it can be detected, this is called in perpetuity, (forever.) Even creosote is being shelved unless you're a gvt. agency it's getting hard to get approval. You can use copper sulphate but it's not as effective as concrete piers. If you bury an old wheel rim at the bottom with the sonotube standing on the hole, it makes a perfect anchor so it'll never jack form freeze thaw action and it'll make the post as solid as it'll ever get. Frosty The Lucky.

Welcome aboard Scott, glad to have you. Please put your general location in your header it'll really help folk get together if they know your neighborhood. thanks for offering such a plum situation, it'll go a long way to enticing youngsters into the craft and keep the shop working. I'm thinking you'd have folk lined up this side of the pond. Frosty The Lucky.

Paper toasts in the 350f range, a wooden matchstick toasts in the 400f range. Paper turns black in temps en excess of 400f. wood chars in the 550f range Paper will catch fire around 454f (just like the book) wood ignites at around 650-700f depending on some variables but tooth pics are birch but so thin they'll light at lower temps. Wood matchsticks are sort of the standard. If you can draw a matchstick across and it leaves a mark you're looking at around 400-550f. depending on the color of the mark and how fast you move the stick. Dad used to be able to read temp very accurately with a white paper matchbook, no matches, he'd read temp by toasting colors, eg. faint tan up to charring to igniting. It takes practice. Doing test runs with the oven is a good method to learn this technique but buy a good quality oven thermometer as the thermostats aren't as accurate as we'd like. Frosty The Lucky.

Well Yeaahhh you made a Porter type V burner, what's to catch? Mikey's also the only person I know who calls mig contact tips accelerators rather than nozzles. Of course a nozzle accelerates the flow as well as making it linear. Ron, Mike and I have been friends for years. <wink> Neither Mike nor Ron think a person needs modify their design, they've spent so much time and effort getting them just right. They have a point their plans work as well as the design is likely to work. I just have a little better handle on guys in garage shops making do with what they have. I also make a far simpler burner, it isn't as efficient as Mike's but it's sure easier to make and once tuned it'll melt the fire brick under the flame, so it'll do for me. Once you get to tuning it, pics are super helpful, I can judge what's going on and you can learn my burner vocabulary. A pic showing the door from the side so I can see what the dragon's breath looks like. The other helpful angle is straight into the forge so I can see the burner flame. You've already provided a good shot of the overall forge and burner so those aren't going to help tuning unless you change something significant, say burner alignment on the forge. Frosty The Lucky.

You can cut the crosses with a chisel if you're good at it. A hack saw is faster than a most folk think if you have the right tpi. the rule of thumb for teeth per inch TPI is 3 teeth on the stock a all times. this give you the best cut rate and the least chance of galling cuttings in the kerf. I do a lot of leaf coat hooks and occasionally something on request. I really like requests. My general rule for demo projects is 20 mins start to finish max, unless it's BIG steel. Nothing draws an audience like drawing large, 3/4" and larger out of the fire, they an feel the heat at a surprising distance. Still, it's best if you can finish a project in fairly short order, it's hard to hold an audience more than 20 minutes. Frosty The Lucky.