Frosty

Sounds good, I'm retired so a little coordination and I'm a go. Get together with Tristan if you want to come out with him or however you'd like to work it. Frosty The Lucky.

Sounds good Eric, bring the Nimba and we'll see about making you a stand for it. If you don't mind a steel stand that is. If you want a wood block we'll have to see if I can get my chain saw running, I haven't fired it up in a few years. Frosty The Lucky.

It should be a tough decision, there is a risk involved. What I'm warning about is a potential hazard. I've welded high carbon steel but never an anvil so it's new territory for me. If you decide to weld up those edges I'll do my best but can NOT guarantee it won't affect the face. If I could predict how it'd be affected I could make it turn out how we wanted. That's the unknown aspect. As Harold points out, if you want me to finish grind it, it'll cost more. I'll prep the weld but the finish is just a bunch of work I have decades of experience doing and it'll be a good place for you to develop an important skill. Don't you have a new Nimba, or am I thinking of another member? There are alternatives to nice sharp edges that don't involve a chance of damaging a valuable old tool. If you'd like to come out I'll be happy to show you some tricks and we can take a close look at your anvil. I'll make you a sharp edged square cornered bottom tool gratis to avoid messing with the anvil itself. Frosty The Lucky.

I got it but got busy and spaced it. Will reply now. Frosty The Lucky.

Welcome aboard Brian, glad to have you. There's enough to read here you can kill a couple weeks without having to post anything. We like to warn new folk to bring a lunch and something to drink. One last little note, we LOVE pics, most any pics, project pics, shop pics, tool & equipment pics, process pics, scenery, pets, family, pics, we love em. Frosty The Lucky.

I'll try to remember your name Eric, my memory just sucks for names anymore. Your anvil doesn't look too bad, there's still a good sharp edge on the tail. Were it my anvil I'd radius the edges and use it as is. If I needed sharp square edges badly enough I'd make a square sharp bottom tool. Welding the edge puts the heat treatment of the face at risk, it will in fact be altered in the HAZ (Heat Affect Zone). It can be minimized with proper preheat, ping and relieve and a long slow cool down. Still, it's going to affect the face's hardness in the HAZ. It isn't cheap either, just the welding rod costs a bunch. I'll have to check for specific price but it isn't cheap. for a ballpark guess, think several bucks a pound and I doubt you can buy less than 10lbs. if you can buy that little. You'll need a couple disk grinder disks too, the first one is probably going to get pretty worn prepping the edges to weld, then it'll probably take at least one to dress the edges. Probably more. I don't think I have a chill block so the beads will be rougher than I'd like but I'll look around, there may be one somewhere. I'm not going to buy one and I seriously doubt you want to, we'd need a copper bar 1" thick x 3-4" wide and at least 6" long. that being the case, figure some serious grinding to get the edges dressed. Figure welding those edges up is going to cost you at least $50, probably more just for materials and gas for the welder ad not counting driving out at least once. Personally I wouldn't weld on that anvil, the edges aren't damaged enough to warrant it. It is however YOUR anvil and if you want to give it a lash I'll do my best to do it right. NO guarantees though, you need to know and agree it may turn out worse than it is now. Frosty The Lucky.

I don't have a piece of rail long enough I think the drop trick will work but I'll give the sledge hammer method a try. Maybe Deb will shoot video. No Ian, I think that fella was from your side of the equator name of One Bulloc Zack. Got too far on the wrong side of an Alaskan girl who took the xxxx . . . on him. Frosty The Lucky.

Hah Bigguns. Forget Las Vegas, light your forge and control the heat. Mid 60's here today, might even put on a light long sleeve shirt this evening. Frosty The Lucky.

There are a number of methods, my most basic is a chalk drawing on the table top. Establish how much stock you need, measure the bar, make the piece and measure what's left. This'll get you close to the right amount to use. Then cut a number of blanks. I twist first for a couple reasons: it really helps to control length, # of turns and makes correctional tweaks much easier. Second it makes for nicer transitions from twist to smooth piece. Forge any tapers and note beginning point and finish length. Turn finials and bend hooks. As a general rule do the thicker sections first. If you do the points and finials first the thin sections are a lot more likely to burn. Another method is to make a jig. there are some really simple ones using angle iron and round stock on, two each clamped in the vise gives you a die to turn two hooks consistently. This type jig is easily adjustable, loosen the vise and slide the rd. in or out. It also makes a nice bending fork. This type jig has as many uses as your imagination can come up with. Of course you can do it all by hand and eye, but it takes practice, sometimes LOTS of practice. <grin> Frosty The Lucky.

I'm thinking that'll do nicely. Keep us up to date with progress pics please. Frosty The Lucky.

Maybe so but the birch tree is dead. Bwoohahaha. Frosty The Lucky.

Nice score. I'll be watching the progress pics and reading your posts. Cool machines, surprisingly simple and strikingly<wink> effective. Frosty The Lucky.

I don't know Ian, tasting rail just isn't a thing we do this side of the planet. How about you come on up next January, I'll point you to some nice shiny rail you can give a lick. I'm curious now but don't have any experience to judge. When can we pick you up at the airport? Frosty The Lucky.

Didymiun lenses filter "Sodium Yellow" and don't do much when looking at hot iron, forge interiors, etc. They were "invented?" primarily for glass blowers. I have an almost brand new pair, been in my tool box for at least 20+ years and haven't found a good use for them yet. Who knows though maybe I'll take up glass torch work. It's HOT and dangerous, why not? Frosty The Lucky.

Yoda thought they'd learn. Frosty The Lucky.

Sand blast first, any scale will cause paint to peal no matter how good it is. I like acid etch epoxy primer and 2 part epoxy, it's expensive but really tough stuff. Frosty The Lucky.

I'm doing more lately but not a lot. I finally finished a new set of flat dies for the 50lb. Little Giant and am having fun getting a handle on it. I'm still getting back from the accident, vision, eye/hand, etc. are still off but I'm adapting. Do you have your gear set up? The last pics I saw looked like you'd found a nice kit, putting it to use I hope. Does Leah have hobbies? Deb spins, finally had to start learning to knit we were running out of room to put yarn and works at a dog training facility now. Maybe Deb and Leah will keep each other entertained while you and I punish some innocent steel. I still have the old forge but haven't lit it in years, I think you'll like the newer one. You're enrolled at the School of Mines aren't you? How do you like Denver? I like the front range, all the fossil shops and rock hounding. Cool place. Frosty The Lucky.

No saddle on mine, I'd want wheels and an engine. Frosty The Lucky.

EGADS MAN!!! What a score, even if you can't use some of it, it's worth saving maybe donating to a museum. You must be living right! Why don't these things happen to me? Oh wait, I got my lucky break in full measure, I'll stop envying you. (Yeah RIGHT) <grin> Frosty The Lucky.

Yeah, 45&6 are sheet forming hammers, 4&5 are raising hammers and 6 is another but of specific type. Check/search body and fender hammers. I have two I got from Father who got from a neighbor, a retired silver smith and tin knocker. I only have a very general idea of what it's used for but don't now how it's used. Frosty The Lucky.

Sorry, I don't remember your name and I've asked more than once. <sigh> I'm blaming the tree. STUPID tree! Cleaning up the edges is doable but may not be necessary or even desirable. how about posting a picture or two. Please shoot them with the light coming in at a shallow angle, direct light makes it hard to see detail on reflective objects. You can bring it out and we'll evaluate it's condition. If it needs repair I can do it, we'll need to buy the right rod, do the preheat, ping and relieve the beads and you can grind to your heart's content. Just so you understand and agree there is no guarantee. Frosty The Lucky.

Why am I not surprised to read this story Dick? I think the only thing that WOULD surprise me is if you let something minor like not having the "proper" kit stop you. Here's to walking the Glory Road. Frosty The Lucky.

Very nice Stephanie. I was beginning to wonder if you'd left us. I'm really glad to see you post again. <wink> Frosty The Lucky.

Vaughn's about covered what to look for. If it's good, $150 is a good price. 80lbs. is a handy size, easy to move around and plenty to do serious forging on. Frosty The Lucky.

Well Steve, we WERE making LIGHT of it. Let the forge be with you. Frosty The Lucky.