Frank B

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About Frank B

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    Advanced Member

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  • Website URL
    https://www.facebook.com/bobbioforge

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Salem Or.
  • Interests
    Bladesmith, Blacksmith

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  1. Thanks, how much larger are you going on the stepped nozzle? I could not find anything searching the forum directly referencing that.
  2. Can you elaborate on the design parameters of this improved nozzle. Thanks
  3. Hi, First post in long time. I've been planning on building a ribbon burner forge to help facilitate welding Damascus, but thought I would try a 2 T-Rex burner forge first as I like the thought of staying naturally aspirated. My old T-Rex burner seems to run pretty darn efficient so I figured that would be a good place to start on a second unit build. I deviated a bit and decided to hand Forge the taper to the burner tube ,rather than buying a weldable taper for $25.00. And since I did not have a 3/8 npt tap for the back brass collet, I turned the rear plug with an extended boss and a set screw. My nozzle is flared a little more than 12 degrees but it seems to work fine for now. It seems like I've read a post talking about using a stair step nozzle with a spacer? I don't understand, is this for a bigger diameter nozzle? And is that an improved design over the stock configuration?
  4. Thanks, I have never heard of it in 1/8" . I love the look and would like to try it sometime. I guess I could use a thicker saw blade which I think are usually L6. Have you tried making the same style of billet with L6.
  5. No extra metal was added and I started with a standard / large 6.75" railroad spike. And yes I did thin down the handle to move more metal to the blade. I have made a lot of these in 3 or 4 different styles and I am getting a little better at forging to shape so there is less loss due to grinding at the end.
  6. Great job, I love it. If I may ask about the blade. The 15n20 looks to be thicker and showing more than I would have thought for a piece that is usually around .070 thick. Did you use multiple layers of 15n20 or does it come in pieces thicker than bandsaw blades.
  7. The tank does not have a mesh basket yet, but I was thinking about it. So far I have never dropped a blade in my other tank, but it would be a good idea especially with the raised basket as you mentioned.
  8. Here is a new quench tank I finished up to hold the parks 50 quench. After hearing about two other Smiths who shop burned down in the last year , I figured I'd make this one right with a wheeled base and with a hinged lid that flips down in case of fire. I also made my first forged hinge to fit on the tank.
  9. Thanks, I have made a few san mai spike knives the bandsaw way, but this came out nicer.
  10. Very nice. Did you bandsaw the spike down the middle then insert the other steel and weld?
  11. I make a bunch of cuts on both ends of the tubing for folding over to seal up the ends. I leave at least a 1/4 hole on the ends for the pressure if there is any. I bring the cable up to temp, flux. I do that twice. I do twist the cable to tighten before inserting it in the tubing and then I bring it up to welding temp. BE Careful about what way the ends of the tubing are pointing and where you are standing when doing the first setting of the welds as hot flux can squirt out the end hole. And it does!!!! especially when using a press!!!
  12. I also have a love/hate thing going on with cable. I also take it apart down to the bundles that are 3/8 dia and clean. But with the amount of dirt that comes off of new cable I am sure there is a lot more of it farther inside. I said it was can damascus, which is guess it is, but I do not add powered metal. I just stick it in a stainless steel tube to shield it from scaling and then forge it together just like you would a normal cable billet.
  13. I have tried 1/2 3/4 and full twist and do make them that way sometimes, but I like the way my fingers lay on the handle with a 1/2 twist. Of course if a customer ask, I will make it however they like.