Chelonian

My tentative guess is that it's a Peter Wright. I think I see flats on the feet, the general proportions seem right, and the font of the stamped text looks just like the text on Peter Wright anvils. I'm definitely not certain though, since it sure doesn't look the text says anything that is on a Peter Wright. EDIT: Disregard. Thomas Powers identified it.

Welcome to the forum! Yes, it look like an Arm and Hammer anvil. Looks like the weight is 152lb to me, but the numbers are pretty faint, so I could be wrong. Have you read about not grinding or milling the face of anvils?

Frosty, why would you not take it apart and clean the the threads? It's not a job that would take very long, and it seems to me that getting the nasty old grease that probably contains metal dust out would increase the life of the threads substantially.

Looks like an Iron City vise.

Welcome to the forum! Looks like it's in nice shape. Have you read about not grinding or milling the face of an anvil yet?

The anvil I purchased a few months ago is missing its heel, and the balance on it is fine (not tippy at all), so I suspect missing the horn would be fine as well. The one I bought is 180# with a pretty good face, and I paid $0.66/LB for it, or 125$. Anvils may be more expensive where you live however. I know missing the horn and missing the heel are two pretty different things, but for what it's worth, my anvil has worked very well for me so far. I don't regret buying it for a minute. If you can post a photo of the anvil in question, that may be helpful.

Welcome to the forum, Erik! All an anvil really needs is to be "restored" is to have hot metal hit on it. Any grinding or milling will take decades of useful life out of an anvil. Also be warned that a fresh coat of paint generally decreases value if you try to resell it. It's best to leave the patina it has earned over its long life.

Sucker rod: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sucker_rod I think it's usually medium carbon.

Don't touch it with a grinder! The face plate looks pretty thin at the heel, so it may have already been milled at one point. Those small marks likely won't even transfer onto your work.

If it were mine, I wouldn't do it all in one go. I'd start with a somewhat small radius, use it for a while, and then make the decision on whether or not to make the radius larger. You can always take more off, but you can't put it back.

The step looks pretty shallow, I'd be wary that most of the hardened face has been ground/milled off.

I just tried the sledge, and it did the trick very nicely. About a dozen good whacks and it was free. Now I feel rather silly about all my overthought leverage antics with the digging bar. I should have gone straight to the sledge! Thank you for the suggestion! It worked like a charm.

It's not in a place that is really accessible for vehicles. I didn't think that a sledge would work so I didn't try, but I'll give it a go. (when in doubt...) Thanks!

Pnut, that idea did cross my mind, but I'd rather avoid charring the log if possible. I may try it if no other method is successful. JHCC, This IS the stump I use to mount my anvil on. I need to move it to a inside a barn.

Today I tried to move a 18" diameter log that was frozen upright to the ground. I was not successful, despite much effort. I first "undermined" the log about 1" all the way around its perimeter, in hopes of reducing its contact area with the ground. I then had a 5' digging bar under it with a fulcrum about 3" out from the point of contact, and I was putting all my weight on the other end of the bar. The log remained stuck. Log - 1, me - 0. Is there some technique for this sort of thing that might help? Or do I just have to wait until the ground thaws in the spring? Thanks!

Buzzkill, I did send a PM to Jennifer. I just don't like being too exact about my location on an open forum. Hopefully that's understandable. Thanks!

I'm in central Mass. I do have a 180# (stamped 213#) Wilkinson Queens Dudley anvil, but the heel was broken off at some point in it's life. The rest of it is still in decent shape, so the only main features it's missing are the hardy and pritchel hole.

I think you entered it incorrectly. I believe you need to enter it as { 0 , 3 , 20 }

That would be 104# I believe. If you are ever confused in the future, just type "anvil hundredweight calculator" into your preferred search engine, and use one of the results.

I'm in Massachusetts. The last vise I went to look at was a 4" for 100$. Seemed like a decent deal, until I found that the leg was broken just beneath the pivot. The handle was also badly bent. The stub of the leg had been jammed into a pipe, but it really didn't seem like it would hold up to much. It seems patience is key with this sort of thing. I'm sure I'll find a good deal eventually.

They all look very nicely cleaned up. I'm still trying to find ONE at a reasonable price.

Depending on what you mean by "a few inches" and how long it is, it might work as an anvil.

Same situation for me, but I'm going out to look at the eclipse no matter what! (the weather makes it so I can't forge anything though, since my setup is outdoors )

I'm pretty sure it was forged, not cast, due to the presence of handling holes in the body.

I think I remember seeing one just like that on Craigslist yesterday. Possibly the same one? Looks like it's in great shape! Nice find.