Chelonian

It's a single bit.

Unfortunately I don't have a welder, but adding wedges does seem like it would work. I'll see what I can do. Buzzkill, the anvil I have is missing its heel, so no hardy hole. Thanks!

I don't have a vise meant to withstand hammering yet, so clamping it in a vise isn't an option. Could you elaborate on what would makes the cement a bad idea? I'm not doubting that you're right, just trying to better understand this type of thing for the future. I suppose that leaves me with your recommendation of mounting it in a stump. I'm assuming (correct me if I'm wrong) that you mean to carve a slot into the stump that the back of the axe head fits into snugly. The possible problem I see with this option is that since the axe head is shaped like a wedge. Wouldn't this make it be able to wobble back and forth in the carved hole, making it difficult to cut metal with? Thanks for the help!

Will an axe head work decently well as a hot cut? I seem to remember someone on this forum mentioning that they had done it, but I can't find it now despite much searching. The main reason I'm wondering is because I got a Douglas axe head (if Douglas happens to be a sought after brand, please let me know before I potentially modify it irreversibly) for free in a box of rusty tools, that I don't really have any other use for. If there are no problems with using an axe head as a hot cut, what would be a good option for mounting it upright? Would encasing all but the top few inches in a block of cement be a viable option? Thanks!

That's very interesting. Thanks for letting me know!

SLAG, Thank you for that information! I had always thought that files were ruined once they were dull. I'll definitely do some research about it and give it a try.

About a week ago, a neighbor gave me a box of "junk" tools that they had found cleaning their basement. Given how rusty they were, they mostly seemed like just scrap metal to me at the time. However, since I had been wanting to try using electrolysis for rust removal for a while, I decided to try it on a few of the tools. I'm very happy that I did, since after removing the rust from the good tools, here is what I was left with (there were also some that really were junk, but here are the good ones): First from left to right is a 16 inch Nicholson file. I've never seen a file this big and thick before. It's a bit worn in the middle, but the first and last few inches are still sharp, and cut incredibly well. Second is a large Williams 737 open-ended wrench, with an opening of 1 1/8 on the small side, and 1 1/4 on the large side. Third is what looks to be a very old wrench. There aren't any markings on it other than a large X cut in with a chisel. Fourth is a front rack adjustable wrench marked "FAIRMOUNT CLEVE." After being cleaned up a bit, it seems to be quite a nice old wrench. Fifth is a small ball-peen hammer. The head didn't have any visible markings, but I made a handle for it out of a scrap piece of cherry anyway. The next three are just random wrenches, one marked "T77", one without markings, and one marked "BARCALO BUFFALO" The last from the left is an interesting one. It's marked "TRUFFAULT-HARTFORD SHOCK ABSORBER" I didn't think much of it to begin with, since it didn't seem very special at all. However, after googleing around for a bit, I found that it is a kind of rare wrench meant for adjusting the friction applied on an early shock absorber. If anyone knows anything more about any of these tools, I'd certainly appreciate hearing them!

The shape looks kind of like a Brook's anvil, but I'm no expert. Definitely wait for someone more experienced.

The photos look normal to my eyes. What makes them look altered to you?

Unfortunately, today was really busy and I was unable to get a photo of it. Basically, all I did was extend the height of it to around 5'6".(that's when it's on the ground, it's quite a bit taller once it's sitting on the forge) I didn't have any more stovepipe, so to make it taller I made a frame out of hardware cloth, and covered the frame with aluminum foil. I'm not sure how long it will hold up, but so far it's been fine. I'll try to figure out a way to make the input smaller. Thanks!

I have extended the height of the chimney since I last posted, so I'll try to post updated photos of it tomorrow. I've found that it works pretty well, at least on days with not much wind. Whenever the wind kicks up, the chimney can't keep up and the head-hunting smoke gets its way. Overall, I'm pretty happy with it. It is of course another thing for me to carry back and forth every time I get my forge going, but I still like having to deal with less smoke. One thing I was wondering about: should the the intake be smaller than the output end? Because I think currently the input is a bit larger. It just seems like it might get better suction if it was the other way around.

Do you have a photo of it?

Just from the shape I'd guess that it's a Fisher. I'm not an expert, however. Do you have any other photos of it?

I'm not entirely sure what you mean. Are you saying that I should have left the jaws all chewed up? I'm pretty sure that the chewiness was from someone misusing them. I don't think they were originally like that.

Thanks Gazz. The little gizmo is indeed an adjustable stop. I decided not to try removing the jaws. I ground some of the mushrooming off with a bench grinder, but then I did all the rest just with files. I then adjusted the stop to about four thousandths of an inch before the jaws hit. It now cuts through 16 gauge steel fencing wire like it's barely even there, and medium sized nails with only moderate pressure. I'm quite happy with them now.

That's a much larger price difference than I would have expected. What types of places sell hot-rolled steel? The cut nails are not very old. I never thought to test if they are able to be hardened, since they are to small to be used for much other than small hooks. If there is a type of tool I can make out of them, I'd love to give it a try. I think they're about 2.5" long Will mild steel work alright for a simple spring hinge, or does that require a spring steel? If it will work, I may try making a pair of bacon tongs. Thanks for all the help!

I just bought this large pair of nippers: They read: "Carew's pat 12, warranted forged steel" They seem to be mostly in great shape, with zero noticeable slop in the pivot. The only issue is the jaws. They are pretty beat up, and need some work: The jaws are a separate piece from the rest, so perhaps they are removable? If not, any ideas on how to grind the jaws while they are still in place? They sure seem like they are of good quality, so I'd like to do a good job fixing them up. Thanks!

Thomas, so far I've just been using stuff I had laying around for mild steel. I've used cut nails for small hooks(non-galvanized), some really large nails(with galvanization removed) for slightly larger projects, some small round stock from something I don't even remember, and some 3/8 round bar that was once used as structural steel for when I made the tongs. I guess I'll need to find a source for this as well, once I run out or need a different sized piece. How large is the price difference between the cold-rolled steel from a store like Lowes and hot-rolled steel? Neil, I have tried the modeling clay thing, but I should probably do it more. I did take a class a few months ago, so I got to meet some people there. It was quite helpful.

Maybe It's not a bad idea for me to practice making the tools on some mild steel anyways. At some point I will probably come across a source of some higher carbon stuff.

I guess I'm just not very good at this sort of thing. Comes with practice I suppose. So it seems tongs are just about the only tool that mild steel is suitable for?

Thomas, I'm sure there are springs out there, I just really don't know where to look. I don't really have any connections with mechanics. I'm sure there are plenty of snow plow wear plates around, but again, I don't personally know anyone in the snowplowing business. I did a google search for scrapyards near me, and while there seem to be several metal recycling places, I don't know if you can go there and buy stuff. Swedefiddle, I don't have a swage block or a vise yet, but I'm sure I'll figure out some way to get a similar result as to what you described. Thank you. Thanks!

I'm having some trouble finding projects I can do with my skill level/setup/materials. I really like making tools that I can later use, even if they are not necessarily blacksmithing-releated. I've made three pairs of tongs - a pair of large flat jaw tongs, a pair of small flat jaw tongs, and a pair of scrolling tongs. They all work well, so I'm happy with how they came out. At some point, I would like to make a pair that is better at holding round stock, but I need a day where I have a lot of time. I am yet to find a source of non-mild steel.(I'm open to suggestions, however) What kind of tools can be made with mild steel? Are there any types of punches or chisels that can be made with mild steel? If you have any ideas, please let me know. Thanks!

It's 8" diameter stove pipe. I've seen 10" generally recommended as a minimum, and I'm not expecting 100% smoke removal from this. Any reduction will be better than none. That's a good idea for keeping it up. I'll try to rig something like that up. I read the "Read This First" quite a while ago. Did I infringe upon a rule?

I've decided I need to do something about the coal smoke from my forge. I don't find forging very enjoyable when I'm trying to maintain a fire, turn the crank on the blower, and dodge coal smoke all at the same time. After poking around a bit on the forum, I saw a few really nice, tall, well built, professional looking forge chimneys. Mine is none of those. I just cobbled this disappointment of a chimney together in a couple hours, and now looking at it, I'm having my doubts about its effectiveness. Anyways, this is just what I could make with lying around materials. Take a moment to appreciate the j̶u̶n̶k̶y̶ ̶n̶a̶t̶u̶r̶e̶ quality craftsmanship of my creation: Because I need to be able to replace the top of the barbecue when the forge is not in use (to keep rain out), the chimney has to be easily removable. The forge is a side-blast, if that makes any difference. I'm burning bituminous coal. Questions: 1.) Do you have a good idea for keeping the chimney from falling over? Right now I think a stiff breeze would send it toppling, which isn't really ideal. (and this problem would be made worse if I make it taller) 2.) The top is only about 5',10" above the ground, so it's not exactly sky-scraping, but will it be at least better than nothing? 3.) Is there some way I can make it taller without adding too much weight to the top? 4.) If there are any other things you see that could be improved, please let me know! Thanks!

Very cool. I really like Wilton vises, and that's a very nice one!