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I Forge Iron


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Everything posted by Chelonian

  1. It's totally fine. Don't worry about the shiny spots.
  2. Those don't look too bad to me! I always find it interesting to see the tongs I've made and how they've evolved. Here are pretty much all the ones I've made, more or less in chronological order from right to left. I still use some of the earlier ones occasionally.
  3. I certainly plan to go to the Fitchburg Forge In! Will you be demonstrating there this year? I probably will not make it to the NEB meet since college classes will have started again. That older hammer also looks excellent!
  4. Very nice looking hammer! I really like the pattern you chose.
  5. I didn't want the mold to come back so I pretty much charred the whole handles, although not that deeply. All the non-charred handles that grew mold had linseed oil on them, so I don't think it does a very good job at protecting the wood, at least from this species of mold. The mold hasn't ever been a problem previous years though, and if your shop isn't in a cool and humid underside of a barn it probably isn't needed.
  6. Nice tomahawks! When it comes to hammer handles, I char them mostly for mold protection. After this very cool and damp spring/summer, I noticed all the non-charred handles were growing mold, but none of the charred ones were. I ended up charring all my hammer handles after that.
  7. It's almost definitely forged. The cast anvils made later by Brooks had letters cast protruding from the anvil and their pattern changed a little. (not my photo)
  8. A hot forge does also emit UV. Since the coals are effectively black body radiators, a significant portion of the energy radiated from a white hot coal is in the UV range. The hotter the radiating object, the shorter wavelength light is emitted. Polycarbonate very effectively blocks UV, but does not significantly block most wavelengths in the IR range.
  9. Update: It's holding up fine so far. The heaviest work I've done on the heel is drifting a couple hammer eyes with a 6lb hammer in the hardy hole.
  10. It's certainly a great anvil no matter the exact weight.
  11. I agree it looks like a Peter Wright. Looks like a good anvil to me.
  12. That is one impressive repair job. Looks like a great anvil.
  13. Can many people here forge ambidextrously? Whenever I've tried, it feels really clumsy for both my hammer hand and tong hand.
  14. I like the idea of a wood handle as well. Check out this design by Phoenix Forge. It does require some splitting and drawing out, but because of the clever use of flat bar and twisting it 90 degrees, it looks like it could be made fairly efficiently.
  15. Have you seen this design? (not my image): I don't know how ergonomic it would be, but it would not require any forge welding or splitting so it might be worth a try making one. I also saw an example where the end of the handle loop was forge welded back into itself to make a closed loop.
  16. I don't have it attached to anything, since I like to move it around. If I wanted to use it as my main anvil I would weld on some pieces of angle iron and lag bolt it down to a log.
  17. That will make a great anvil. I really don't think you need to do any heat treatment, at least at this point. However, have you file tested it to see if it's already heat treated? If I'm not mistaken, the "HT" at the end of the steel code can mean it has been heat treated already. Coincidentally, an 8" section of 6" round is the same dimensions of steel that I used to make this: Mine is just mild steel, and it still holds up fine. If this were my main anvil I would have welded on a heavier duty horn and heel, but the thin ones have been very useful. If you have a welder and the alloy of your steel is weldable, you could so something similar if you wanted. (just to clarify, you certainly don't need to add a horn or heel, the chunk of steel will work just fine as is)
  18. I believe the next size offered by Kanca is 165lbs.
  19. You could certainly smooth down the teeth if needed. I've never used one of those vises, but I'm sure they would work just fine.
  20. I think since you've taken some classes and done some forging you would do just fine making tongs if you choose to do so. Just search for "making tongs without tongs" to get some ideas. Here's one approach I like that starts with no tongs: I can also strongly recommend a JABOD forge! I've used mine for hundreds of hours. Once you get to know how to manage it though practice, it becomes a very capable forge.
  21. Thank you for the excellent post, Patrick! I've always been a bit unclear about many of the details you explained.
  22. Looks like the rest of it is in pretty good shape. My guess for the maker would be Wilkinson, since it has very similar proportions to mine, and there seem to be a lot of them with broken heels. It could easily be any other English maker though. As others have said, you don't need to do anything to it before using it. However, it is possible (although not necessarily worth it) to replace the heel if eventually you decide to. Here's the Wilkinson that I repaired a few months ago:
  23. Definitely an odd anvil. Is there a crack/delamination at the forge weld for the heel?
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