Chelonian

And just for one more example for the OP, this is the anvil I use. The face on it is not exactly perfect, but it does not leave any texturing left on my forgings. If I'm using the edge of the anvil, I simply avoid the one main chip in the edge. I have not once thought to myself "gee, if I had that little spot on edge intact I could do so much more!" : Oh yeah, its also missing its heel. I don't even notice that anymore while I'm forging. (if I need a hardy or pritchel hole, I will just make a freestanding one.) To me this anvil is not a "broken anvil" It's just an anvil with a few secondary features removed by owners over the years.

Please at least use it for a while before you decide to do anything to it. And I don't mean use it for an hour and make your decision, use it for a LONG time. (a year is often suggested) Then, after that, if you really do think that it is making it difficult for you to forge, then consider making changes. In the photos you posted, the face honestly looks pretty pristine to me. Perhaps post a closer up photo of exactly what you are worried about? If it were me, I would simply use it as is and not run the risk of ruining a perfectly good anvil.

That's odd, my Wilkinson has a big "W" stamped into it in the same place yours has the "6".

If it is strictly for forum usage, then why does it have a paragraph on grinding and milling anvil faces? Thomas, I think that's a good idea as well. Some other suggestions to possibly add to it: Don't try to make a sword for your first project. Rebar is not good steel for most projects. An extremely heavy hammer is not necessarily better.

I would guess that an equal if not greater cause than ignoring the danger is simply not knowing about it. It's not talked about that much, so many smiths likely are completely unaware of it. Case in point, I hadn't thought about it at all until I saw this thread. Perhaps a concise version of this thread could be added to the "Read This First" thread to help spread awareness? Just an idea.

If you're asking me, I do hope I didn't come across as someone who knows a lot about this! That's why I'm here asking questions. I will let you know what I've learned though. If I say something that someone else knows to be incorrect, I invite them to please correct me. Now then, with that out of the way, here's what I've found: The reason it may be more dangerous in low-light conditions is because your pupils are dilated, letting in more electromagnetic radiation of all types, visible or otherwise. IR wavelengths extend from the nominal red edge of the visible spectrum at 700 nano-meters. This means that there is a large amount of different wavelengths that are categorized under the term "Infra-red" There is nothing special about the demarcation between red light and IR light other than humans can see red light, but not IR. I have yet to find a reputable source that is directly applicable to our topic, but here are a few sources you may find interesting: https://www.renesas.com/us/en/doc/application-note/an1737.pdf https://www.quora.com/Does-infrared-light-hurt-your-eyes https://sciencing.com/infrared-light-effect-eyes-6142267.htmlhttps://sciencing.com/infrared-light-effect-eyes-6142267.html https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r3V5PzTDP7E Again, I in no way claim to be an expert, but if someone here is, I'd love to learn.

I've been thinking a quite a bit about this (unintentionally, I assure you), and I've come up with a few questions: Does glowing steel also produce IR, or is it only the fire? If yes, do tungsten filaments in incandescent light bulbs also produce IR? If also yes, what protects our eyes when looking at light bulbs? Is it the argon atmosphere inside the bulb? The thin glass bulb itself? Or something else? If it is the glass, Would glass safety glasses block IR? (obviously not saying this is a good idea, I'm just wondering) What are IR-blocking glasses made of? Is it poly-carbonate plastic like most safety glasses just with additives, or a different composition entirely? Is the reason glasses that block infra-red are usually green a similar reason as to why you wear green glasses when using red lasers? Or unrelated? If you know the answers to any of these weird questions, please let me know.

Unfortunately, I probably won't be able to get the gray colored ones, since the only place I've found that sells them has pretty high shipping rates. I don't fancy paying more for shipping than the product. I'll probably end up getting the green ones and hoping they don't make reading temperature colors too difficult. Question for anyone who has worn this type of glasses: Approximately how long has it taken you to get used to evaluating colors again? I'm not looking for an exact amount of time, and I know it will differ greatly between each individual (due to experience levels, etc.), but is it more on the order of a few hours at the forge, or a few months? Many thanks for the help.

Thanks! Here's (from the product page) what it says about the 3.0 thing: "Gray 3.0 IR Filter Lens: The darker Gray lenses still offer true color recognition, while users are able to torch solder, torch braze, and perform light cutting up to 1". The darker shades may also be ideal for some with light-sensitive eyes."

Hopefully it's okay that I'm reviving this thread. Since finding this forum, I've been trying to be a little better about PPE. (I've always been pretty good, but I don't want to be that young guy who thinks he's invincible) I think after reading a bit about possible eye damage caused by IR, I would like to get a pair of 3.0 tint safety glasses. I'm pretty sure I would rather have the gray-colored ones, as opposed to the green ones.(I don't want everything to look green ) My question is, will I still be able to see things reasonably well while wearing them? Are they more akin in visible light blocking properties to sunglasses, or eclipse glasses? I forge outside and during the day, so the light level is fairly high. I can't find the forum policy about linking to products, but I won't link to them just in case, but the ones I am thinking about say they have a "Gray IR 3.0 lens" Is this the correct type of lens? Thanks!

I bet those big drill shavings would make great antennae for an insect.

I'd love to hear what he says. I don't know for sure, but it's how I understand it anyways.

I know you're just joking, but I do have to point out that abrasion wouldn't be much of a problem. If it was true, how would all the delicate satellites in orbit still be intact? True, there are a few satellites that are destroyed each year from orbital debris, but at the speeds that orbital objects collide, I wouldn't call it "abrasion". Either the anvil would be fine, or it would be obliterated.(it would almost certainly be fine) A more pressing issue with storage in orbit would be how to get it down from orbit when you want to use it again. Re-entry temperatures would cause it to completely burn up, or at the very least ruin the temper of the face plate. Perhaps if it was also stored in a temperature-shielding container for re-entry?

That pun injured my brain. Don't worry though, It'll heel quickly.

Just know that it probably doesn't have any of it's hardened steel face left on it. Here's a photo of approximately what it would look like if it hadn't been milled: *Not my image, I just found it on google* Looking at this photo, and then the one being sold, I think a lot of material has been milled away. Still might be fun to go look at it if you want, maybe the guy selling it will have something else you are interested in.

I stand corrected then. I always thought that since motor oils are fully saturated oils, the molecules had no place for the oxygen atoms to bond and generate heat. I don't have any formal chemistry education though, so I won't argue. I also don't want to derail this thread any more.

I've only ever heard of spontaneous fires being caused by highly unsaturated oils such as linseed oil. I guess I should have specified that I meant motor oil, which I do not believe to be able to self-combust. (correct me if I am wrong though)

I'd give the whole thing a good coating of oil, and drape some oil-dampened rags over the face and horn for extra protection. I can't imagine the anvil would rust anytime soon after that.

I think an opossum has taken up residence in my workshop... I like nearly all animals, but I just really don't like opossums. There's just something about their rope-like tails and their pointy teeth that give the impression to me of being eternally rabid. It's also making a bit of a mess by leaving droppings in a corner. Anyone know a good way of getting it to leave?

Looks really nice! I'd suggest making a few hooks to hang up those safety glasses that are on the bench. I've found they don't get as scratched and last a lost longer when hung up.

The problem with grinding or milling the top of an anvil is less about ruining the temper, and more about simply removing material from it. The hardened plate on an anvil is usually only around 1/2 inch thick, and removing even a small amount of material can take many years of useful life out of an anvil. Looks like a nice anvil!

Looks like a nice little northern black racer. They can grow up to about seven feet in length.

I've seen a photo of your truncated anvil but it didn't have a C-clamp on it, so it must have been a different photo.

I did a rough count of them, seems to be about 220. And if that's only half of his collection, he has around 440 anvils total???

Here's my anvil, it's a truncated Wilkinson's Queens Dudley. From the weight stamp, it was 213Lbs originally, before it lost it's heel. It's right about 185Lbs now, so still a nice weight. (I've since taking these photos cleaned up the face a bit with some hot steel ) It is really nice to use compared to the piece of rail I was previously using, and I got it for 125$, which seems like a good deal to me (67.6 cents/lb).