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I Forge Iron

trinityforge

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About trinityforge

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    Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Fond du Lac, Wisconsin
  • Interests
    I am into a lot of things. I have been blacksmithing for what seems like forever, but only recently have I been learning in leaps and bounds. I am part of the Society for Creative Anachronism where I am a blacksmith from the 14th century.

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  1. Thank you Dogsoldat, I will do so.
  2. Sorry, and yes. The blade is going to be bone and the handle is going to be wood. I was wondering if there is a specific bone that is better to use and which bone that would be. I have seen a few where the handle is wood attached with animal hide glue.
  3. I have been considering making a bone knife. Does any one have any experience in this area? I could use some advice and direction. I would like to know what bones would be good for a knife (oh, this is decorative...at least at this point), attaching it to a handle, etc... Thanks in advance
  4. Oh, and AZ the others have given you exceptional information. Why don't you fill in your profile info and let us know where you are, there might be an exceptional blade maker in your area more than willing to help.
  5. AZ said: "During my last smithing experience, I found that I didn't have an issue moving the metal to the desired shape. However, I had a lot of excess material that I needed to cut off somehow. It took alot of bending back and forth and pounding on sharp corners to remove any metal." I don't understand this statement. If you were able to move the metal to your desired shape then what excess materials did you have? I have been bladesmithing for some time now and if I have moved the metal to the desired shape then I really don't have much to be removed. So if you could please explain a bit
  6. To hold the bit in place: Take the hawk out of the forge and place it on the step before the bick, placing the HC against the step, the eye 90 degrees or across the bick then place a few "lighter hits from the center of the HC end up the middle towards the eye and weld the rest. Weld again if needed. I don't have any pics of this process, it works for me and when I make my next hawk I will post pics.
  7. I agree with everyone, it looks AWESOME! I too would like to get a blow by blow of the process. I have been wanting to make a few hawks and you have inspired me.
  8. 1) Name: Jim (James) C. Kotsonis 2) Location: Wisconsin, Fond du Lac proper. 3) What type blacksmithing do you do, what do you make: I am (or more likely) I endeavor to make tools, I have been taught knife making by a master knife maker (who never took the test), I am starting to make grills and wrought iron gates. I hope to one day make armor and other period reproductions. 4) How and when did you get started in blacksmithing: I was introduced and subsequently inducted into the faith by the 1st Cavalry Mule team, in Fort Hood Texas. 5) What object or thing did you use as your first a
  9. You can always use a stake anvil. Tin smith anvils are long and designed to let you reach in hard to reach places. Look up tinsmith stakes and see what they have, if it is not quite what your looking for then make a new tool and let us know what it looks like and how it works.
  10. Polarbear forge has a product called "grinder in a box" it is about $700 and comes with much of what is needed. All you have to do is drill and tap, then get the wheels and motor. When you look at a Bader for $1700.00 or more, makes much more sense. Also, if you want to you can get the Grizzly knife grinder, it is not ideal, but does work well for shorter knives.
  11. Thanks Ciladog. There is soooo much info on this site, it is hard to find stuff. Jim
  12. It reminds me of Leonardo's Automatic Hammer. Which I am going to build...with a bit of modification of coarse. He,he,he...
  13. They are not. The screw box has only one revolution of thread in it, the rest were stripped.
  14. I do not have pictures yet, but I am replacing a missing screw and must build a new screwbox to fit the new screw. Any ideas on how to first build the screw box, but also put threads in it to match? Any help will be appreciated. Jim
  15. I know this is a late post to this but... Rail steels are primarily bainitic which is a structure of the steel, which is similar to hardened martensite. Bainitic steel is formed as a process of cooling and heating and has a fine non-lamellar structure, bainite commonly consists of cementite and ferric iron. The high concentration of dislocations in the ferrite present in bainite makes this ferrite harder than it normally would be, it also has a greater wear resistance. When forge welding higher carbon steels to lower carbon steels a carbon migration occures, which affects how the material
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