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I Forge Iron

jlpservicesinc

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About jlpservicesinc

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    Curmudgeon

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    https://goo.gl/photos/jNR8MRdz5TSU3Nm47

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  • Location
    Rutland, MA
  • Interests
    anvil making, utilitarian tools, hardware, tooling, knife and sword making. Martial arts tools especially Ninjutsu.. Industrial forged items..

    Nin video link.. : https://youtu.be/yfQaqeF9MaA

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  1. Nice work Anvil.. Love seeing the gate work.. You have a very nice eye. I love the depth of the 3/8" hinges and the bevel.. Forged bevels? Yves, I love the hinges and pintels. Not sure what those clip looking things are on the outside though? So, what are they?
  2. Thanks for the information on the books.. I love you share that info. I have added a number of books to my library upon your suggestion.. Thank you. I find that I like to develop my own understanding as a way of having it. (book learnin vs real world application). It's how I figured this out and then read about why it works. Now I have a pretty good understanding of what is going on, so can change the results to what i want.. Harder in one area vs another, thicker, etc, etc. In my 8-10 years old days, I've read numerous books on it where a smith in the old days would shove a bar into the carbonizing (reducing) zone to add carbon, and even in the early days, it was considered a normal concept to stuff iron into a forge fire and have it pick up carbon.. When I first started I never really understood how that could even be possible unless the iron was indeed melted as a way to pick up carbon. (because of the decarb ratio). But conceptually could never see about forging that lump of burnt metal (melted) back into a usable bar. When I talk about experimenting it's more for others than for myself.. I won't devote the time to just do it. I need something behind it to drive the research.. The idea that using this "carbon uptake" does work is shun but many for good reason if we come back to the "Mystery metal or Unknown " steels. There are many methods which were left behind as modern methods came about. It is really cool how it works an how easy it really is. I ordered the 2 books you mentioned.. Thank you.
  3. In order to truly give you good information some drawings or what you are trying to do would be really helpful.
  4. If you have a windows 10 computer, open photos and with photo open, select the 3 dots on the right hand side of the screen.. This will bring up edit options and a resize option, Pick 2K for emails and such. it could be as simple as a bunch of gunk inside. The gear drive could be a 48/1 and this means it does not take much to hold the handle from turning as the fan blade will move 48 revolutions to the 1 hand crank.. Be gentle so as not to damage anything.
  5. thanks, It is a nice addition to the shop. I remember way back when these items were for sale.. Happy to have it.
  6. JHCC, these will always cut faster on the flat.. So anytime you are cutting something always stand it narrow side up. Nice work. Solid bar sections like square and round are pretty slow compared to other methods, but where this will shine is on files, flat springs, knife blades, etc, etc. Also anything that is hardened. Also today, they have thin kerf blades which will cut much better than the thick blades but will get used up faster. Its all a balancing act when it comes to cutting. One thing I really like about the cutoff bandsaw is the auto feed and auto shut off feature. These features can be applied to this saw too, so on larger sections you can turn it on. put a weigth on the handle with a shutoff switch to engage when the cut is done. These are loud dirty saws but have a place in any shop.
  7. Thomas, I don't know.. I do know what fluxless welds if done well and correct there is no layering effect.. What does "Well and correct" mean.. I'm not sure.. A properly set forge for welding temps without decarb?
  8. Thanks.. Age gets us all.. He was very kind.. I never much was involved with other smiths but he never shut down work when I was around at his personal shop if I just showed up and he was happy to demonstrate at the villiage on some pretty nice projects like the Axe.. Back then forging and Ax was a big forging day. Besides I was kinda geeky book smart but not forge smart so he'd tolerate my foolishness.
  9. Thomas, I had looked at this very factor you mention with time vs scale factor.. As long as the temperature got high enough, it did not seem to matter.. thick, thin, long, short. The largest factor is how much clinker is on the bottom of the forge fire.. I always seem to do this uptake just before shutting down for the day and slag can be a huge problem as the steel cooks it has an affinity to suck up the slag which binds tenaciously. The result are exactly the same with the mild steels I have tried.. All the research I have looked for and at say that mild steel should harden even at 1018 and especially at A36 carbon content.. Despite the information shown. I could never make the methods or the information presented work as a baseline quench as predicted or speculated in books. It wasn't until my buddy burnt up that mild steel knife and myself having burnt up several sections of nail making rods that when testing them with a file after trying to save them from burning up complete by cooling off quickly that they became extremely hard. 60+HRc the higher the heat and the longer exposure the harder they became.. I then started to experiment with how to keep them at the high temps without having them melt.. This was the hard part.. They will harden even without the additional green coal addition.. I just started doing that because of information read about gases being more permeable.. I should at some point see what I can really achieve with it, but haven't bothered. Maybe a plan for the future to see exactly how deep the skin is and then to see what is really happening with an acid etch.
  10. flux will also impart a line.. No flux, no line.. Interesting concept but true. Justin, so now that you have a chance to test the foot hammer are you going to refine it?
  11. The software did change and the way the photos are now resized has been eliminated.. It might be software or it might be traffic related and the amount of KB ran thru the system as being maxed out. Servers are expensive as is hosting. Most pay by the MB, KB, TB, etc, etc. I love the fact that Glenn even allowed for full sized images for so long.. it meant great detailed photos could be blown up to see forge cracks and details not seen on lower resolution photos. Yesterday I found out, the very first smith who kinda became friends Tim D. has health issues and has closed up his shop and started selling things off.. I haven't seen him in years now, but was saddened by the news but know the guy who is brokering his items. I don't really need more items but figured I wanted to support Tim, so today I went over an bought several sets of tongs which are well work worn handles (used a lot) a shovel made by Tim and his Wally Yater mandrel cone also a nail header. Tim worked at OSV so I would go to watch the smiths at the shop and Tim would often be there so we ended up talking..He was very kind to me. He was a very, very good smith having taken a class at Frank Turley forge and was great at forging, and especially forge welding.. The felling ax basic method was Tim's as I watched him once while he made a smaller splitting ax. Anyhow, out of all the years of me smithing he is the most influential as for looking at his gear and his demeanor at the forge.
  12. Have you ever burnt a piece of low carbon steel and thrusted it into water hoping to save it and it hardened? I use soft coal.. Not sure of the exact process with charcoal as it should work nearly the same but won't have the additional green coal step. I use a well built slightly mounded open faced fire so there is ample fuel on top of the fire. Insert the piece I want and bring the heat up.. As I am heating the piece I move it around till I find an even heat spot and open up a litte drop shoot on each side of the item.. this is to drop green coal into. the item is put into the carbonizing (reducing) area of the fire and brought up to as high a heat as it can stand without melting any of it. it will look watery (and then grainy) just like in a welding heat.. I then hold it there and reduce the blast and throw in a few little piece of green coal and shut the blast off completely. some little spark are ok, but try to avoid them. I do this heat soak with green coal addition several times depending on how thick a skin I want. ( each green coal addition is another carbonizing time and I only add a few small pieces) Its really cool to watch because you can see the gases move around inside the fire. For the swages I do the high heat cycle 3 times and on the 3rd time I add the green coal. Ideally always looking for a spot in the fire that will give an even heat. The carbon monoxide at that temp will help to carbonize the steel some.. 30HRC and up is typical in a thin skin.. I once did this 3 times and it ended up about 60HRc.. (about 15mins total in fire time). the thinner the item the more penetration for a given time frame. The problem with this method is the grain growth runs out of control.. I quench from that yellow heat and move the block around as quickly as possible cooling it off to touch in "Water". Usually straight up and down with large motion and quick enough not to form bubbles from the movement. It will take some time to experiment but works for me every time. The problem I had early on was figuring out how to do it without melting off some section of the metal. I also stopped refining the method once I landed on a spot that worked for what I wanted.. I imagine with refinement of the method other things would be possible, just never bothered. Might be something to look at now. For swages and even hammers it can work well if one does not care about grain size. I never bothered to refine the grain though I have made knives with this method as a demonstration. My usual long winded explanation.. Let me know how it works for you or if you have other questions. I'll try to keep it shorter.
  13. the hardest part is getting all the handle bits together. Refinement from there as in blade is pretty straight forwards. Bonnskij If you have a wagon tire.. You have nearly any size material you need. I mean within reason.
  14. Bonnskij They are not that bad.. Watch part 1 and 2.. Easy really.
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