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About jlpservicesinc

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    Senior Member

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  • Location
    Rutland, MA
  • Interests
    anvil making, utilitarian tools, hardware, tooling, knife and sword making. Martial arts tools especially Ninjutsu.. Industrial forged items..

    Nin video link.. : https://youtu.be/yfQaqeF9MaA

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  1. jlpservicesinc

    What did you do in the shop today?

    irondragon forge & Clay. Thanks looks like it was a double layup exactly what I was looking for.. Mudman, nice bottle openers.. I have never made one.. duckcreekforge. Wonderful work.. I love making rulers or measuring devices.. They are gorgeous.. How thick.. yup. bunch of great work there 58er
  2. jlpservicesinc

    What did you do in the shop today?

    Do you think it was wrapped or stacked/ layered to get where it is? I've got 5 or 6 billets I keep trying to figure out what to do with...
  3. jlpservicesinc

    What did you do in the shop today?

    irondragon forge and clay.. Looks nice.. Is the whole thing layered including the poll?
  4. jlpservicesinc

    What did you do in the shop today?

    Ausfire.. I had many over the years.. At one point I must have gotten 4 20fts of 3/8X 2" that was so bad. I just scrapped them.. They had delams, extreme hard spots.. Nearly impossible to work with..
  5. jlpservicesinc

    What did you do in the shop today?

    Really is amazing work..
  6. jlpservicesinc

    Wobbly Bottom

    Flatliner, That's interesting.. Whats a better thing to use? Epoxy?
  7. jlpservicesinc

    Wobbly Bottom

    Kiss is a wonderful concept rarely as well implemented.. I'm for simple as long as it offers what I want.. lol..
  8. jlpservicesinc

    Wobbly Bottom

    Key being a tight fit (close) fit around the anvil.. A flat bottomed anvil this is a great way.. Hay Budden, Trenton and a few others used a hollow base... In this case a plate of 1/8" or more under the anvil would be needed.. I've tried the sand method as well with the hay budden with sand and it lasted 5 minutes as the sand just displaced filling the cavity.. I then tried to fill it with sand, pebble mix mounding it up in the center and sliding the anvil on top so the cavity was filled.. This worked for about a week than I noticed each time I hit the anvil there was a faint cloud of dust.. I pulled the anvil off to find the pebbles had started to break down rock crusher style.. Then I tried the plate over the sand and this worked well but found with how aggressive I was with the anvil when working that in short order I had the hole wallowed (worn wood).. and when working at the heel or horn the anvil would move around.. I then came up with an idea based partially with an article in the Blacksmith/wheelwright that showed a bar wrapped around the waist and bolted to a angle iron stand.. I took this and moved it a very large leap forwards (for me at the time) with 1/2" round wrapped around the waist from 2 sides threaded on the ends.. I then bored a hole completely through the center of the stump and burned a 1.25" square bar through the center.. This then had 4 holes drilled though at either side of the stump with enough room for the nuts to be tightened.. This worked well enough but the 1/2" bars started to bend at the ends where they were threaded through the square solid since the holes were 90D and the bars were at a narrower angle.. I then came up with this example and it worked flawlessly for years and years.. the only tightening that ever needed to be done was 15 years after the install, the though bolts needed to be tightened as the stump had shrank some.. I moved up to 5/8" round for all round bars and the 2 main round bars went through the stump.. The straight bars were let into the wood with notches at the same angle as the stump.. I then bent the ends to be the correct angle for the tie rods would pull straight.. The straight rectangular bars were 1"X 2.5 IIRC.. punched hot for the 5/8" bolts.. Anyhow it worked flawless till the stump lived outside for 5 years and if rotted away.. You can see it as removed from the rotten stump..
  9. jlpservicesinc

    How to forge a flatter.. No swage block used..

    1" sq 1018HR (Hot rolled) X 8.5".. Marked at 2.5 for the face and 8.5 for the cutoff point when done.. the overall length will only be about 5-6" when done.. Post back pictures to this thread as you progress would be great..
  10. jlpservicesinc

    Wobbly Bottom

    Nice.. that should work great.. well done..
  11. jlpservicesinc

    What did you do in the shop today?

    Nice work.. Do you own a plasma CNC table? Where do you get your pieces cut?
  12. jlpservicesinc

    Wobbly Bottom

    Leather works.. This was used lots of times in the old days..
  13. jlpservicesinc

    Wobbly Bottom

    I'd leave it as be and just make the hole unlevel.. It's easy enough to do with a wood chisel and some putty.. Most old fashion cast iron anvil stands only support the anvil around the very edge.. I don't agree with this put it really is easy enough to do to level it out.. If I had my heart set on it being even I'd weld a few beads on the bottom.. If you are concerned then so be it.. I'm not a fan of calking between the anvil and stump and like my anvil pulled directly into the stump and secured.. Lead is not a good idea as it will give and smear with each hammer stroke.. IE extrude.. I've seen it..