JeepinJoe

You could always lay down a 6" - 8" thick pad of what is called crusher run (in my neck of the woods), which is limestone rock sized 3/4" and below mixed with fines so it compacts very well. When you do go to pour your concrete floor you would not need to remove it as long as the top of stone is at the bottom of concrete elevation.

There is a triple zero "000" grade of grease that is like a thick oil that you can use in a grease gun. It's used for dusty and gritty environments. Just as you mentioned a heavy grease will catch all of the dust and grit and it is stuck there forever. It is used mostly in commercial applications so it is hard to get in smaller quantities.

I really do not thinks this kid is for real. Seems like someone just messing around. He has hit every crumundgeon hot button and just keeps coming back with a bunch of other silly stuff.

I'm excited for you Das. Having a baby is one of the most amazing things in life. When you hold your son or daughter for the first time all kinds of feelings start hitting you. Michael C. - Nothing worse than feeling helpless when your child is sick. Glad to hear he is feeling better and on the mend.

Too funny. My wife named me Oscar for Oscar the Grouch and she often refers to me as the Grinch during the Holidays.

I like it! Very appealing to the eye. Time to get it dirty.

Very cool. Turned out really nice.

Sounds like we have a few people with more than one addiction. Jeeps along with Blacksmithing. Well, speaking for myself those are 2 of my top addictions and the ones that make me smile and get excited when thinking about the next project.

Nice setup Das. If your doing demo's in our area maybe sometime I can come help you out or just keep you company. I can be a good grunt. Gergely; I like that candle holder design. I think that design would be good for one of those stick incense holders/burners.

That there is funny. Congratulations! Best wishes to you both.

Yes. Concrete is great in compression. Not so good in tension. For the rebar I would make a checker board top mat that ties into the vertical rods. You will want 2" of concrete coverage over the rebar mat.

If you are not sure I would coat it anyway. It will not hurt it and will make it more efficient.

Agree. Very nice.

I agree. Have the same issue trying to see something to even begin with. Anyway, great work Das!

Sorry for your lose Mark. Losing a family dog is such a hard thing. It's always amazing how attached you get to them. The one thing that makes me feel better is I like to think that all of the dogs I have had over the years will be at heavens gate waiting for me, tails wagging happy to see me.

Thanks Frosty. I will most likely need your advice on tuning the burners and I like your idea for the floor so I am going to go that route since I do have some extra blanket left. Buzzkil, that sounds like an interesting forge. I like the idea of the forge opening like a clam shell. It would not be that hard to change mine in the future if I find myself needing something like that for bigger stock.

I have a coal forge but don't have it setup in a shop so I have to drag it out and set it up outside. My time is limited in the evenings so I thought a gas forge would come in handy for those evenings I have a few hours to work on some projects. So I started researching on here and decided to start building my first gas forge. Started with a compressed air tank. It was a little too long so I decided to cut it down at each end and make a shelve. The forge chamber is 12" in length and the tank was 12" diameter. The bigger shelve will be at the front of the forge and the smaller on the back. My plan is to use fire brick and set on the shelves to use as doors. Figured having the front shelve bigger would be useful. Three layers of 1" ceramic blanket so I could make the inside of the forge smaller and more efficient. Will coat the blanket with a Satanite refectory mortar. Then will coat with metrikote. I will use fire brick for the bottom of the forge. For burners I have made some Frosty 3/4" T-Burners. I just like building stuff so I am enjoying the build.

Fluid Film is another product like LPS 3 designed to block rust. Are there any louvers in your shop walls and/or ridge vent in your roof to keep a little air movement in the shop? In many cases condensation can be controlled with simply adding louvers in each end of the shop. Also, adding an exhaust fan in one of the louvers can help.

Where in the Adirondacks? I grew up just North of the Adirondacks in a small town called Lawrenceville, NY which is about halfway between Massena and Malone. By the way touch mark turned out great

Another place to buy Mig tips is Tractor Supply. They sell Hobart mig welding machines and the Hobart tips they sell in packs of 5 are SAE thread. I think they sell the packs for $10 or $11 bucks.

No one has brought this up but if those scars were created by a cutting torch the heat treatment around the area of the scars has been compromised already.

I guess it is not surprising what you took out was 5" spacing. Like you said many times there is no inspection. Your work fixed that issue. I really like your design and the craftsmanship stands out. It changed the look and feel of the space. I'm sure you had a happy customer.

For stairwells, openings must be less than 4". In the US many States use the IBC building codes. 2012 IBC building code says you should not be able to pass a 4" sphere through any opening.

LOL...that was good. You hit that softball out of the park. I shall try harder next time.

Agree and all joking aside there is nothing better than hands on training and that is why for many disciplines there are licensure laws that require it.