Forging Carver

So how do you do the texturing on that hook?it must be a pain to do on round stock. My quests would be to put the round stock in a hold fast and then chisel away. Thanks

Nice find! My dream forge is to get myself a buffalo forge with a champion 400 blower.

Thanks for the tip terry. We have lots of honey at my house. Not to get off subject, but honey is a great thing to have around. It is great for when you are sick to plop some in your tea or coffee. Also, if you get honey from local bees it helps to stop allergies. This works becuase the bees are pollinating the local plants which get traces into the honey and your body builds a tolerance to the pollen in your area. Now we find it works for burns. I know a lot of this doesn't have to do much about the topic, but I figured it would help some of you out.

Ok thank you. For general forging I hold my hammer about half way on the handle thumb down. I have Mark Aspery's book on how he shows how he swings the hammer, but I tend not to swing a different way. I suppose as long as I am not getting any pains, what I am doing must be ok. From there I can work on efficency. Thanks for the help That is exactly how I I vision everything. I am not concerned about my posture or how I swing, although now I will be thinking about it next time I forge and wind up messing myself up. Same thing goes for me when I play basketball. When I practice making shots, I make very little. But when I am in a game and just make a quick shot not thinking about how I set up, I usually make them in.

I just got this hammer a few weeks ago, right after I cleaned up for he winter. I am pretty excited to use it in the spring. It was hand forged by Alec Steele with a striker. I have been wanting to buy a rounding hammer for a while since it is a very versatile tool. You can move the steel quick with the rounding dye, and if held properly you have many different sized fullers. The way you control this hammer can easily turn it into a cross peen, straight peen, or diognal peen. The charred handle basically makes the handle much smoother, so you don't have to worry about sanding with fine grits. Also, you don't get those little black spots like you do on a regular handle since it is already black. It also makes you not afraid to get the handle dirty. The shape of the handle is very convienant becuase the oval shape makes it very easy to switch quickly to the different dyes of the hammer. It is balanced very well and feels lighter than it actually is. I know I'm going to get some argument on that one! Overall, it is a very nice built hammer hammer and I am sure it performs just as well!

That's a pretty nice anvil for a fisher. I got a 100 pound fisher which is great, but the hardy hole and edges are a bit messed up. You guys oil your anvils? How often and what kind oil? I might have to go an wire wheel my anvil and then put some oil on it. Anyways, arts a pretty good find and I have been on the look out for a heavier fisher for the future. It will serve you well!

Yeah I've seen that thing in your videos and it is huge! You had a great idea on that one!

Hi, So I have been reading some smithing books and watching some videos and was watching and reading about how the smiths say to hold the hammer. By hold I mean wear on the handle. Many guys say you should hold the handle at the very bottom. However, I was watching some videos by Brian Brazeal and Alec Steele and they seem to hold the hammer above 1/2. Which is the correct way? I know that the lower you go, the more mass a piece receives from the hammer but he harder to swing. Vise versa for going higher. My question is which is e right way so that I possibly don't make or stop any bad habits. Thanks

I would imagine that if there is only that hole for a prichel hole and no hardy hole, it probobly isn't a striking anvil. Why would a striking anvil have a prichel hole and no hardy hole? Usually it is the other way around. I am no expert though.

All you really need for a striking anvil is a piece of steel that you aren't afraid to beat up. The reason you have a striking anvil is so you don't damage your anvil, and striking anvils are a bit lower too. Whatever that is, striking anvil or not, it seems like it would work. There's that nice wide spot in the center which will probobly come in handy. I can't see fto me the photos and I am no expert, but the only issue might be that it's too thin. Don't quote me on any of this, becuase I am looking for a striking anvil or going to make one myself so I don't have any experience with them. But if it's a good price, then I would say get it.

Ok thank you yyf

How do you attach the two pieces together? Solder?

Thank you. It is hilarious how you used the word ritzy. My mom and dad were playing scrabble just now and my dad made the word ritzy, and my mom didn't believe it was a word. I got to show them this for evidence!

I totally agree!

Why do you have to be so good!!! Great work!

Alright thank you. I was going to use 20 pound propane bottles, but now that you say most don't put enough out, I might just go with the 40 pound bottles instead. Thanks again.

Now it is official too cold and snowy to forge. It is supposed to snow again this weekend. It looks like I am going to be done forging until spring. Time to stock up on some tools

Yeah I am going to get me a pair of uvexs. I think I am going to go with shade 2 rather than 3. Even though you have been advised to use at least number 3, you are once again ignoring those that know. 2 isnt enough

Oh yeah I know. I was only joking becuase that way I wouldn't cut through the the cord. With grinders, you could do like 3 cuts then need to recharge. You teach welding at the school I believe correct?

The way is see it is that smiths in the past evolved and took advantage of the modern smithing technology of that time. They weren't concerned about being "old school", which isn't a bad thing by all means. Their whole purpose was to forge in the most efficient, fastest way possible. However, sometimes the "old" tools are easier than the modern tools. Cutting a small piece of stock could be quicker with a hacksaw than needing to get out the angle grinder and plug it in. Using a file to dress a small piece can be much better than a grinder or Dremel which could take away too much too fast. If you want to be old school with no power tools, then good for you. There aren't any rules saying you can't enjoy yourself that way. What I am trying to say is don't worry about trying to stay in one time period. Each period brought great technology and tools, so why not use the best of them to get the job done.

Yeah my next angle grinder should be wireless.

Alright thank you for the help. i think I am going to find myself a freon tank at the recycling center tommorow or some time this week. Thanks for the help.

This has me thinking. I always have water with me by the forge. I have to be careful not to get any dust where my mouth goes.

Oh yeah I would never forge that windy or cold. What I meant was when it is a gentle snow shower and not too cold. I'm not that crazy!

Well we finally have some snow here in NJ! Not too much, only about a 1/4". I have been wanting to forge with snow for the longest time. Most guys hate forging in the cold, but I love it! I wear short sleeves and get nice and toasty from the forge. It also makes you work harder to make more body heat!