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I Forge Iron

Forging Carver

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Everything posted by Forging Carver

  1. Oh wow. I knew brass would color, but not that much! I am gonna have to try that one time.
  2. Hi, I made an opener today and used a block brush for the first time. However, I have found the block brush left scratches in my piece. Is this becuase it is new or did I brush too hard or long? Thanks
  3. Well I know cracks can be a pain, but I kind of like the way that opener looks. The cracks give a bit of character to the opener. I have a book that tells what DSW and ThomasPowers said that it has to do with the grain. Where do you go about getting wrought iron anyways? Do you have to salvage it from old fences and gates? Thanks
  4. Hi, So I was making a bottle opener today and I went to go and cut it off the parent stock with my Hitachi 4-1/2 inch angle grinder. Just when I was about to finish cutting, the thing shot back and there was a faint, dull red flash and it turned off. I then went to go use it again later, but it wouldn't turn on. Is there a way to fix this or is it shot? I was cutting the steel in the grass if that helps at all. Thanks
  5. Wow those are nice. Did you color the ram heads using a brass wire brush? Once I get myself a post vise or mount my other vise, I am going to try and do one of these. Great work!
  6. Alright thanks. I should be good then. That's what I was planning to do as on gas the steel was not too thing, wire wheel all the rust. Maybe I will add some high heat paint or use some ash to make the steel match the rest. Thanks for all the help
  7. Ok sorry for all the questions but would the dirt make the cast rust more? The outside of the forge was black with little rust so I was hoping the inside would be the same. I would have looked bully I do not want to go digging through a guy's flower pot. I will definetly try the screw driver. If I remember correctly, the bottom of the forged looked like it was still pretty black too which might be a good sign. Sorry if I am being a little bit of a pain but I am so excited yet worried about the forge. Thanks so much. Alright. Do you know how long they have been a plant pot?
  8. I know I am pretty excited about it! I hope that there was a drain and it is not too bad shape. I will go there again with a screwdriver. I think it has been a flower pot for over 50 years which scares me a bit. If it is pretty thin, is it worth getting and then claying? The blower is there but the wooden handle is missing which is probably usual. Doesn't seem so hard to make anyways. The guy said he took it off, so maybe it is somewhere in his house. It is funny because I am going on vacation tommorow for a week and I am afraid that the condition will get worse in a week! Mani hope this thing isn't destroyed! This is all I can think about along with welding and that anvil I found too! As long as the ash dump isn't closed I suppose it still might be good!
  9. Hi, A guy across the street from where my dad used to live in town has an old buffalo forge sitting on his lawn. It looks to be in very good condition. However, he is using it as a flower pot and has a bunch of dirt filled in it. My question is that do you think because of the dirt, the inside will be rusty? I do not want to start digging in his flower pot if I am not sure if I am going to buy it, and I do not want to buy it if it is too worn out. Thanks. Here is a picture of the same forge I saw, not the exact forge.
  10. So from my research around on THIS site, I have not seen a post that goes through the correct steps in making a bean can/ soup can/ cofee can/ paint can forge. I have picked up little bits of information from this site, as well as others on the proper way to make one. I hope this helps you guys out, and if there is something that some of you more experienced guys see something I forgot or said wrong, let me know. So first you need a can whether its a bean can or a paint can or a variety of other different metal cans. Now you need a stand. This can be as simple or complex as you want it. You can have a table top forge with just legs to a stand just for the forge that is very long and consists of a adjustable stock stand and tong rack. The possibilities are endless and can be customized to your liking. Just go to a reputable blacksmithing/ knifemaking website to get some pictures and ideas. Your next step is to get a insulation that is meant for high temperatures. From what I have read, kaowool seems to be a popular choice for most guys who make gas forges and I hear that if you call HVAC place you can get scrap pieces that will work for a forge this size very well. DO NOT USE A PLASTER OF PARIS AND SAND MIX OR CLAY THAT IS NOT MEANT FOR HIGH TEMPERATURES! I have learned this when I made my first cofee can forge when I found out that PP+S mix cracks, doesn't last long, and a big pain to make the forge out of. Do not listen to youtube videos with MOST people showing how they make their forge or a how to on a non blacksmithing website such as instructables. Some videos I have seen do a very good job and show the correct way to make a gas forge, but I haven't seen a good one on a soup can forge. So what you do with the kaowool is roll it up tight and fit it in the can. You then want to get some refactory cement or a good kiln sealant and apply it to the kaowool. This will harden it up a bit. You then need to cut a hole for a propane torch and it is done. I haven't yet made a proper one yet, so that is part of the reason I made this just to verify I will do this right. There are a few questions I still have: How thick should the kaowool extend out from the the edge of the tin can? How much coating do you apply to the kaolwool? Does it matter what angle or where you cut the hole for the propane torch? What's the best torch to use? Is a burner such as a T Burner neccesary for this type of forge? Thank you so much and sorry if these were answered but I looked around on this site and others. I also figured these questions might help other guys on this "how to". Wayne Coe is a very good person to get your forge supplies from: http://www.waynecoeartistblacksmith.com/Forge_Supplies.html
  11. Wow those a pretty nice! I like the leat opener becuase first of all the looks, and secondly becuase it can be used as decoration and an opener. How did you make the leaf so realistic?
  12. Oh no problem. Take your time with it and enjoy the holiday. Thank you so much.
  13. Thanks! I looked up fulcrum and it said part that rests for a leverage. I am assuming that it's the loop part of the opener? It is surprising how you can see that becuase I burnt once or twice. I really need to work on some tongs and cleaner forge work. Thanks
  14. Nice opener and great advice Frosty. I always thought it would be cool to go to a craft show where I have portable forge equipment and people can watch me forge as well. A good way to bring attention at the least. One thing I do need to work on is the creativity and the mixing and matching. Right now I make stuff that I base upon a picture or follow in a good video. I am sure it will all come in time just like anything else though. Sorry if I got this thread a little off topic not about bottle openers. Thank you guys for all the help.
  15. Thanks for the help. Also nice bottle openers. I do have to agree what you said beammeupscotty, but one thing I do not. If I can sell the openers I make now that you say are crude, then why not. If a customer is willing to pay $25 for it then fantastic. Also, sometimes the crude stuff can sell better than stuff that is cleaner looking and more perfect. The reason I say this is becuase people like to see something that looks rustic and so it looks like it was hand forged. Personally I would rather have a nicer opener, but there are people out there who do like them crude. My job is to find those people until my openers get nicer looking like some that you guys make. One thing that is going to help a lot is me getting a block brush. Right now I am using a welding brush which removes very little scale. Thank you for the help and I know that my openers definetly need improvement which will come in time.
  16. Oh alright thanks. I was gonna say $35 but I know this person song figured that I should give them a better price plus I really wasn't sure how much to tell them. I calculated that I made about $10 an hour (which includes time setting up and putting away) off it after minusing expenses and materials. I plan on putting some on etsy because I figured I figured someone must want one maybe for a wedding gift or something. I am also going to bring somebody time we go to a resteraunt that has a bar. Once again, you guys have been a huge help! Thanks so much
  17. Not to change the subject, but I just sold that railroad spike opener. I wasn't sure how much to charge, so I said $25. Was this a good price or should I charge more next time? I know that it varies upon location but just a general idea would be helpful. Thanks
  18. Hi, My parents bought me this mini anvil for my birthday which I am not sure what it is. I am thinking that it was used as a sample, but I'm not sure. I was hoping one of you guys would know what it is or if it is just a novelty. They bought it at an antique shop so it's probably pretty old. Thanks
  19. Alright thanks. I do use a ball peen but it takes me a couple heats to get the tap right. Maybe I should use a larger ball peen.
  20. Nice openers everyone. I found that my biggest issue is making the tab. I find it hard to get a good clean tab, but it probably comes in time. This thread has been a huge help to making openers. Thank you everyone.
  21. Thank you guys so much. I am glad you told me there is nothing good about this forge. I rather you guys be truthful than just pretend. You are right, YouTube is not a good source to learn on. For now I suppose I am sticking with coal until I get to make another gas forge. Thanks for the help.
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