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Angle Grinder Stopped Working


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Hi,

  So I was making a bottle opener today and I went to go and cut it off the parent stock with my Hitachi 4-1/2 inch angle grinder. Just when I was about to finish cutting, the thing shot back and there was a faint, dull red flash and it turned off. I then went to go use it again later, but it wouldn't turn on. Is there a way to fix this or is it shot? I was cutting the steel in the grass if that helps at all. Thanks

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Very difficult to say without further details. Angle grinders fail. Cheap ones fail more often, but they all go at some point. Sometimes practically right out of the box.

One of the more common fails is the brushes. If it's the brushes, it's a fairly easy fix. If it's another part of the motor, unless you have spare parts laying about and/or are great with electronics, it may be cheaper to replace the whole thing.

A couple of things could help save on future ones. First, never apply too much pressure when cutting (a major safety issue as well.) Second, allow the grinder to rest in between uses. With grinders, especially cheap ones, sometimes the electrical components overheat if used too long continuously, like a welder's duty cycle.

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Look in the yellow book (the paper one NOT online) for a tool repair shop and give them a call. If they don't repair power tools they will know who does. Authorized service shop can be located by calling the Company 800 # and asking. That one is a good one to look for online. Say, search "Hitachi, Authorized Service" and maybe add your local.

I've found the peanut grinders aren't so robust and tend to need the doctor's more often. You need to let them feed themselves, pushing will kill them soonest. Do you have a hack saw? A 12 TPI Sanvic blade will go through 1/2" sq. in about 30-45 seconds if you know how to use one. AGAIN pushing harder does NOT make it faster.

Frosty The Lucky.

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Another "simple" fix is a bad power cord. I get really annoyed at one guy who occasionally works with me because he constantly wants to tie the cords on tools up in tight wraps. That causes the insulation on the cords to break when the cords are older and can cause the wires to cross and short. I've also seen guys lay down spinning grinders right on the cord and cut thru the insulation shorting the cords. 

 

In some cases the breaker will trip at the house, in others the cord arcs thru before the breaker trips. Either way often the cord is shot if this happens.

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Buyers beware!  On some tools, chainsaws, lawnmowers the big box stores will go to the manufacturers and give them specs and a target price and minimum order quantity for an item. The mfg then sees what they can do to meet those requirements and maintain a "reasonable" quality.

A common cost savings is bushings instead of bearings, wider tolerances, switches that are rated at a lower cycle life. Quite often you will see the same chainsaw for sale at a proper equipment shop for say 500 but the same chainsaw HP and bar length but slightly different model number is at Walmart for 300! 

Operate both for 8 hrs per day 5 days per week and see which one quits first!

A little research can be beneficial on a power tool that will be seeing every day use.

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Generally they cost more to fix than they are worth or can be replaced.  One I have came with extra brushes, of course no idea where I put them so I wouldn't forget when I needed them.  A friend uses angle grinders a fair amount, after going through a bunch of name brands for good $$ he has started buying a couple HF at a time when one craps out he chucks it and picks up a couple more. 

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You mean it kicked back and there was a flash of light from the grinder? Could you have tripped a breaker somehow and not reset it? Try plugging something else into the same cord/outlet to see if you're getting power. The eyes can play tricks on us when something surprises us, like an angle grinder kicking back, and we see things that aren't there or mistake one visual for another.

Coincidence can make diagnosing a problem extremely difficult, so start with what you know happened and troubleshoot from there first. Same with troubleshooting a car problem. You know that the car is stalling but did you really hear a vaccum leak when you popped the hood to check things out? Maybe you did, and maybe you didn't, but you do know that the car cut out on you.

Keep it simple and work from the easiest solution to the hardest and most expensive. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I was looking over the grinder again today and this time I found that I did cut through the wire. At first I was freaked out that I was going to have to trash the tool, but then I saw how easy it is to replace the power cord. I need to find the right cord for my hitachi though. Hopefully it will be an easy fix.

 

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On the last hitachi grinder I replace the cable when it was still undamaged because It annoyed me.

Way too short and in general a cheap bad cable.

Go to good tool store or order some quality cable online, its worth it imho

 

 

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41 minutes ago, KRS said:

On the last hitachi grinder I replace the cable when it was still undamaged because It annoyed me.

Way too short and in general a cheap bad cable.

Go to good tool store or order some quality cable online, its worth it imho

 

 

Any store online and cable in particular you recommend? Also, I know that you also need to buy those metal things that have the loop to go on the end of the wire. I forgot the name of them. Thanks

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7 hours ago, Forging Carver said:

Any store online and cable in particular you recommend? Also, I know that you also need to buy those metal things that have the loop to go on the end of the wire. I forgot the name of them. Thanks

I checked briefly but the companies I can recommend are not international, sorry. 

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12 hours ago, Forging Carver said:

Any store online and cable in particular you recommend? Also, I know that you also need to buy those metal things that have the loop to go on the end of the wire. I forgot the name of them. Thanks

In a pinch I've used "dead" extension cords for power tools. A lot of times it's the female end that gets messed up, but the male end is still perfectly good.  I'll often save cords off electrical appliances if the cord is decent but the item is dead. I find the molded plugs a bit better than the replacement plugs many times. Last one I used came off a dead AC unit IIRC. I used it to wire up a new overhead fluorescent shop light in the garage.

Home Depot/Lowes sell "power tool cords". Basically a 14 ga cord with a male plug on the end. I can't remember if they come with the ring terminals attached or not. Most times I never bother with ring terminals, though I have a mess of them at the house. I just wrap the bare wires around the screw after stripping the wires. Some tools don't use rings anyways, they tin the ends of the wire with solder and wrap. I don't remember particularly liking the last "power tool cord" I bought at one of the box stores. The cord is stiffer than what I'd prefer typically on my tools. I needed the tool fixed right then though ( helper put the tool down on the cord with the bit still turning and it cut thru the cord) It's on my small router that I don't use that often, so it will probably stay.

Electrical supply houses may have cords with molded plugs already attached as well.

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On ‎1‎/‎2‎/‎2016 at 5:16 PM, jumbojak said:

Keep it simple and work from the easiest solution to the hardest and most expensive. 

This the most important thing you can learn and remember in the repair of anything, it's known as the "KISS"         KEEP IT SIMPLE SILLY I've put it in P C terms for this sight.   I owned a new car dealership and had to remind my Mechanics. I'm sorry Technicians, of it on a regular basis and it was often the case of simple problems.   

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2 hours ago, notownkid said:

I owned a new car dealership and had to remind my Mechanics. I'm sorry Technicians, of it on a regular basis and it was often the case of simple problems.   

As a kid, I remember watching a guy beat on a tractor tire for almost forty five minutes trying to break the bead. When he finally collapsed from near exhaustion someone walked past and suggested he let the air out before he had another go at it... worked like a charm.

When something isn't working the way you expect it to, it's often something simple but I've found over the years that people often jump to more complicated or physical solutions without thinking things through. It's bad when it wastes time but it's absolutely terrible when it wastes money. Especially a customer's money.

Maybe they're trying to show off their analytical skills or physical prowess but I don't really know. Sometimes I guess people just have to learn the hard way. It's a shame, though it can be fun to watch!

Here's to hoping you had a good service writer at the dealership. They're a dime a dozen but a good one is worth their weight in gold.

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Never had a Service writer, my Service manager was a working mechanic who came to us at 15 and stayed 26 yrs hated paper work but customers loved him esp. the ladies who brought in  the majority of the cars.  I worked the noon to 1 shift in the shop and talked to all customers coming in for a PM appointment.  That is why  I presume 75% of sales were repeat or referrals for over 20 yrs. had 2nd and a few 3rd generations we treated everyone like family, Manufacturer hated it but Oh well.  No neck ties were allowed in dealership even the Representatives took them off in the yard and we dealt with many very $$$$$$ customers who made a point to look  like everyone else they told me it was the only place they felt comfortable.  I hate dealing with the dealerships today just a bunch of uncaring robots treating you like the government does.  Sure to upset someone here today.

I went to a lot of Service schools so I knew what everyone else did in the shop and I remember one where the Instructor's opening statement was "First thing to do is Check The Grounds, will fix half your problems right there" that is extremely true today  with all the electronics in your vehicle. He also adhered to the KISS principal.    Everyone today depends on being told what is wrong by their $$$$ computer driven analyzers who are not correct a lot of the time but doesn't replace a well trained set of eyes, good hearing and a well tuned brain.  My Dad always advised us "Be good to our Customers they are your Bed & Butter".

Just glad I'm out of the business just enjoy the fact that all my good mechanics went on their own and developed very successful businesses and all have contacted me for my input on business matters over the years.   

This is correct for any business today including Blacksmiths.

 

 

 

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Remember that cordless tools don't run as fast or have as much power as corded ones.  Cordless is good for jobs where electricity is not available but don't replace corded tools.  We have all gotten used to cordless drills and screw drivers.  The convenience is worth the trade off.  For an angle grinder is not worth it.  I have the DeWalt 20v angle grinder.  I tried using it with a cut off wheel to cut a piece of 3" square tubing.  It took forever and wore out a new cut off wheel.  In a corded angle grinder it would have been done quickly and I would have been able to cut many pieces.  It is a good tool but when electricity is available I always fall back to the corded.  I would not get rid of it and if and would replace if it were to quit. 

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12 hours ago, Forging Carver said:

Yeah my next angle grinder should be wireless.

I have a great many cordless power tools that I use almost every day to make a living, but a cordless grinder isn't one of them. That said I have at least 8 4 1/2" grinders, 2 7" grinders and 2 die grinders. The only reason I don't have a 5-6" grinder yet is the easy availability of disks in my area. There's always at least 2 4 1/2" grinders and a 7" grinder on the work truck at any time along with a decent selection of wheels/disks.

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