Fe-Wood

After looking closely at your lathe, It looks like your tool post is set up for hand tool spinning not scissor tools. The reason I think this is because of the wear in the center of the rest, toward the work. Its hard to tell how much wear but I would be inclined to fab up a bigger (thicker and flatter) rest. I may be wrong about this but it seems to me that when the VFD is slowed down it doesn't have the same power to drive the motor with the same torque of full speed. When I'm doing a run of parts I'm changing the speed at least once if not twice per part. Quick speed changes will be important to good production. 2" flat belt with a leaver tensioner might be the ticket. I don't know what motor if any you have. I would seriously consider a 2 speed motor over a VFD. just my thoughts... I have included pictures of my motor mount. Its beefy. Nice thing about this setup is it allows for left to right adjustment (sliding on the sq. shaft) as well as belt tension.

OK, I'll take some in the AM. VFD is good but if your trying to make it pay, seconds count! When producing a part that takes only a few minutes, shaving a few seconds here and there is just profit. My lathe came with a 2 speed switch and I didn't hook it up when I put on the VFD. Now- I'm desperate to have it! How much spinning have you done? It would be nice to have someone to discuss some of the processes with...

Smooth-on makes good rubber mold products. Latex is also good and cheeper. Casting is an art and science. Mold making is the same. Read up on it, a lot. If memory serves me right, you may be in for a 3 part mold witch can be tricky. Bando, Plaster of Paris and Fiberglass all make good mother molds. Depending on the quality of the rubber used for the mold, you can make a 100 or 1000's without mold degrade. You might consider making the mold and casting wax parts then mounted them to the sprues and have them cast.

ditto on the 55 gal. drum lids work to. Look at allmetalshaping.com that is what they do there

Thanks! May tool IS the place! I use there wheel tools and I have a May Circle shear- great machine. There is also a guy up in Canada on your side of the country making wheel tools and lathes- http://www.bazzshop.com/index.html Don't know any more about him or his tools- I made my first set of wheel tools.... lota work! But then I put wood handles on them. Before you put in shims- check center alignment. My lathe was out about 1/16" (wear in the bed and tail stock) Made centering blanks really hard. Also If you can set it up with a two speed switch. I think you will find that to be very helpful when trimming, doing finish work and centering under power. If you would like, I can show pictures of the motor mount on my lathe....

Nice score Mark!!!! Looks like a great lathe! One thing- If you don't have a need for the added hight given by the spacer blocks, take them out. Eventually they will wear groves in the bed. If you do, consider making the blocks the same size as the mating surfaces. Those ways seem to be in good shape. Be a shame to run groves in them sliding the dead center back and forth... So, ah, Where do you live?

What JNewman said- Just run a bead about 1/2" back up the center of the "handle" from the weld zone. Hard tools shatter-

Loose the ring! makes me nervous just seeing it. Imagine if that had happened just little further to the left and back a bit....

old enough to be good quality and new enough to be put to work..... :)

without seeing the size of the piece, its hard to give good advice. Sometime I use a rose bud to "burn off" the scale. A picture would be great!

The center logo is my touchmark

Thanks John!!! I have been looking for a simple yet elegant design. I just found it!... and with instructions ta boot :D

Remember Copper is the base metal... so they are all toxic but I think they are not as bad as lead bronze... I have cast 100's of pounds of Silicon Bronze Everdur 655 I believe. Forges great, patinas great, doesn't degrade with multiple castings etc. I have tried forging some naval bronze mystery metal and found it to fracture when forged at any temp showing color. Didn't bother to try to work cold.

Just got off the phone with Dennis about the Toby Hickman clinic this weekend- We still have 4 spots for watcher to come and learn some techniques on a power hammer and make tooling. Toby is a master on the power hammer. There are going to be 5 hammers running so there will plenty of space for people to watch from. Lunch will be provided as long as we know you are coming! Hope to see you there!

Hoping some of you from around Sacramento, ca. can make it! Should be really good!

Their ain't no gaurd against improper use....

Heres mine- Made from $.25 Mokume.... about $1.50s worth. Shhhhh, Don't tell anyone

I'm in the same boat but coming from the left coast... Many friends will be there but its the $$$$

Nothing like a new shop to make the year! Looks like a kit? Or did you build the walls on the ground then stand them up... Whatever, I like the feel of it!

Basher- You got it!! As far as good quotes- I think this one gets it pretty well too.... "The difference between knowledge and skill is Practice" Edward Martin In my mind, I have great skill as a striker, in reality.... I need more practice.....

bump!

Your actually questioning the price? I figure if I find one that turns OK for around $75.00 I buy them. You get the bonus rivet forge too. Go Get It!!!! Welcome to the forum!

http://www.ebay.com/...9#ht_500wt_1413

If you have an old set of O/A torches you can use the valve from the fuel side. Thats what I have done in the past. The pictures show the newer set up using valves I had laying around and ball valves. Not the connection to the fuel line, it is reverse thread as fuel lines should be. Those fitting can be bought at your gas supplier or taken from an old set of torches. When you get the piece of 1/4" pipe to use with the mig tip, cut one threaded end off and swage it down a bit to fit the mig tip. I tried to solder it once and the heat from the burner came back up the pipe and melted the solder after I turned off the gas. I think you will find that you use the regulator for flame control more than the valve.... At least I have found that to be the case. Good Luck, Have fun and be safe!

I don't see why you are intimidated! Those tongs look great and perform as intended! Post more! I like tongs and port... not always in that order...