Fe-Wood

$$$ is always the best vote! Looks Great!

Nice work! The video on axe making is really good! Did you make it?

consistently inconsistent! Good stuff going on!!!!

sounds like it might have a screw loose Couldn't resist Seriously, I don't know the Parker brand but I do know many types of vises have a "keeper Plate" to keep the lead screw attached to the jaw. Also the threaded block in the body of the vice could be loose.

In the literature I got with the hammer they recommended cast steel for prolonged and intensive work. Didn't say anything about angled blocks though. I have to put a VFD on it to run it... Looks like its going to be a costly little bugger. The spec plate is so warn, I can't read it. 10 hp. and 900 RPMs is all I can read. Guess I'll have to take the motor in for a check up and load test. :(

A 5 gallon bucket half full of water works well for me. I put a walkway up to the top, If they get thirsty enough, they will die for a drink of water :D

If your happy with it and its what you wanted than you got a good deal!! Welcome abourd! Hope to see some of your work...

Rob, I don't know if they did or not. I'm just getting to know about the Bradley hammers. Seems like a reasonable thing for them to offer considering what they were will do for "custom" applications. Francis- Thanks, I will see if I can find a copy. That book has been referenced a bunch of time as a good source of info. Judson, Thanks for the link! Great source. Has a bunch of stuff on Nazels to Rob, worth the look

Lamey- I don't know. It is "factory" though because non of the parts look to have been modified. Its hard to tell for sure w/o removing the paint.

Peacock, I'll bet your right. The hammer is said to way 5700 pounds in the literature I got. From my understanding this hammer is from the 40's and the angled dies are not typical. I like that they are on an angle though. Thanks Jim- I need to get a video camera or have someone come and shot the vid. I'm itching to get it running... I'll see just how good my floor is. I'm hoping to move it and the forges outside- but I need to build the building first. Thanks Francis! I'm very happy with the Bradley purchase Anyone have a diagram for the suggested base for this hammer? The base of mine is 44" square with the anvil protruding about 8" Seems like 1.5 yards of concrete is all I'll need

I'll take a picture of a die I have. Stay tuned

dkunkler- It gets better!! I have 260 pound anvil I bought in July that I haven't seen yet. Its been at a freinds shop and I haven't been able to go get it. Its been a busy summer :P

Oh ya, The PBR is used for perspiration and muscle fatigue. You would be amazed at how many of those go into a project.....

4 tons eh Danger? I feel light only weighing in at just shy of 3 tons. Just a guess, I'm thinking my anvil weighs about 1500 pounds. This is based on how my lift reacted to it.

Frank and Bigfoot- Good points both- If I were going to drill a hole, it would be in the 3/32" range because I like the "vanishing point" you speak of. I'm waiting for my press to arrive before I continue with this project. I believe I will soften one edge of the butchers that are coming with the press. I may end up making steeper angled "slitters" to do this too so they act more like a chisel.

Very nice work!!! Outstanding really! One day I hope to be able to work with paturn welding. The effects are stunning!

Looking good there Clinton- I don't know if you are having problems with cold shuts and flashing while forging the bulbs. If you are, remove about 1/4 or more of the radius from both edges of the pattern part of the swage, top and bottom. (Soften the edges of the pattern). Depending on the shape, I like to leave about 1/3 of the swage pattern in the inner most part of the die. It will make turning the part while forging easier too. I can show a picture of what I mean if my words aren't cutting it....

I went and picked up my new hammer on Thursday and it is now sitting pretty in my shop. I'm amazed at how much bigger the Bradley is compared to the Little Giant. At twice the rated hammer weight, the Bradley weighs 3 time what the LG does. Last picture is outside the shop door... Its sunset season!

I'm going to stick with my original question- Why? I don't suspect you will be able to chip that area very easily....

No Thomas its from out east, its a "C" frame. Mark's books are excellent! I don't have any but I have worked some of the projects with friends. Steve, Fullering seams the ticket. I am going to try the drilled hole too because it will help with layout... I think

I don't understand why you would want to do that....

I like the drilled hole idea... I have never worked 1018 that I know of. Love working wrought. I may try fullering it into a small radius after cutting too... I just bought a Fly Press so I'm going to wait until I get that before I make more.....

Thanks for all the ideas and suggestions. I am using this piece as the template and learning piece. When I forge the "real" ones I'm hoping I don't run into the same problem. I did close up the "tendril" (but not all the way at the root, the tip was touching the main part) thinking it would help with vibration. I was working with medium to high red heat. I watched the crack form as I was drawing out the "foot" section. I don't think it was caused by the chiseling in the beginning, but it could have been. I did file out the flashing from cut area before forging with the hopes of eliminating this problem. I don't really want to do the tendril last because it will make blending the sizes harder. I am thinking maybe wrapping it with baling wire to help stabilize it.... I'm going to try again in the morning.

I am working out the details for a piece and have a question on cracking. When I cut the smaller thin section away and forged it out, all was fine. I then closed up the "Y" and began to forge the shape on the bottom of the "Y", where it goes into what I call the Gumby Foot (left side of first picture). While I was drawing that part out, the crack began to appear. Do you guys have any tricks for stopping this kind of thing? I'm using "off the shelf" mild steel and I didn't quench that area. I believe it has to do with the vibration caused from hammering... Suggestions? Thanks!

I met a boat builder once who was an amazing craftsmen and artist. I asked him how he knew when he was done with a boat." When they come and take it away", he said. On that note I think there are as many variables to perfection as there are people trying to achieve it. Whats perfect for me, may not be perfect for you. Some say leaving an "intentional flaw" is the way to go....