Jump to content
I Forge Iron

Fe-Wood

Members
  • Posts

    2,116
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Fe-Wood

  1. Great suggestions George! Thanks! The city planner was shooting from the hip... Bottom line, If I get a complaint, I need back up...
  2. I hope you get to see those video's long before that! I'm working on it and its getting higher on the to do list.... I'm just looking at possibilities is all. The town I'm looking at is small and rural. I'd be "in town" though and it would be nice to have knowledge of someone who runs a coal forge as part of their business. Having answers base on real life experience... When I go for permits... Thanks!
  3. I'm considering putting together a shop in Oregon. I've talked to the planning Dept. about the use of a coal forge. The comment I got was if I can make it run within current EPA spec for a fireplace, no problem.... Good luck with that! Any of you guys running a shop in Or. have a forge that has been inspected... and is legal to run? I know lots of business's have them... how does one make it work out? Anyone have insights into the process that might help out? Thanks a bunch!
  4. What he said! Especially THANK YOU to Brian B. for such a great explanation of the rounding hammer....
  5. If you can make a flame holder, I would suggest doing so. I would also make an orifice that is a bit smaller, say 0.035" to 0.38". The reduced size will give more volocity to the fuel. You will need some sort of flame holder to keep the flame from climbing back up the tube. I run my forge with the flame holder just slightly back of the forge liner. The liner also maintanes the flare of the flame holder as the burn enters the chamber. Ron Teils website is another great resource...
  6. So they came from an old furnace, was it a natural gas or propane furnace? What is the average inside diameter of the tubes as measure after the bell inlet? How long are they as measured from the orifice? Is there a flame holder on the ends inside the forge? How far into the insulation of the forge do the tubes protrude? I wouldn't bother getting another regulator just yet. You should be able to run the forge on less than 20 PSI.
  7. Sometimes I bank it up so I have coke in the morning. Most times I just walk away and leave it as is. I clean up when I start a new fire. I figure the best place for the remaining coal to burn, if its going to is in the firepot....
  8. As Rich said- if you are concerned for your safety and don't have experience with such things, seek pro advice. That being said, I'll give you my 2 cents. Consider it worth what you paid for it- It looks like the orifice might be to big. 0.45 is good for tubing 1" inside diameter... You also need to be sure the fuel stream is traveling down the center of the burner tube. The bends at the end of the tube may be causing to much back pressure with such a low fuel inlet pressure. If you are determined to work this out yourself, I suggest getting Michael Porter's book "Gas Burners for forges, furnaces & kilns" I have built several burners based on his methods. It should help with sorting out your burners by giving you a good understanding of how burners function. Good Luck!
  9. Beautiful Beth! Nicely done!!!
  10. I think I would go with a blower.... Fuel costs could get pretty big even with your discount.
  11. never had a midsize car to torture with big weight.... Nice to have lots of coal on hand, eh?
  12. I have attached a few pictures of what you are going to need. The first picture shows the top or fire side of the clinker braker note that the triangle is offset with the two stepper sides going down into the tuyere. The rod goes in the grove on your tuyere and fire pot. The last picture is an ash dump made from basic materials. Looks like you have a pivot point on yours already. As for a fan, hand crank will work, I use one all the time. Its a champion 400
  13. Its been a while but I seem to remember the rule is 2' in 10'. You want to be 2' about anything 10' away. If the ridge is 12' away, you don't need to be 2' above it... As others have said, the culvert seems an unnecessary expense....
  14. Same comments as above, great work! About that blower... All a blower is, is a fan with a motor.... Yours has the bonus grill to keep flies out... I wouldn't change it until it burns out, myself. I might add a air gate instead of the dimmer switch... Might make the blower last longer. Oh, one last thing- Turn over your horse shoe so the luck don't run out.....
  15. How about putting something under the work piece... Like a jack, to keep it from sliding down? You wont stop it from moving unless you give it no place to go....
  16. I am going to assume you have air flow because you cleaned the line? Did you clean the ash dump? I like pinecones myself. Let them get a bit of embers going before adding coal or coke. Don't give to much air to fast or coal. You want the fire building red hot embers, to much air or coal and they cool off to much....
  17. I'd say a trip to the doctor is in order. Sounds like some reaction to something else to me.
  18. vaughn t, Have at it! I'm glad you like it! Thanks Colleen! I made that with a friend out of drops in his scrap pile! The guy is a master fabricator and it just about fell together. Of course we had a good plan and made adjustments as needed. Baddog, one can never have to many vices or stands for them....
  19. How about the one pictured here http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/30456-need-advice-on-vice-stand-id-like-to-build/
  20. Here is a vice and Swage block stand I made. I use it ALL the time. A tripode is the way to go with uneven ground.
×
×
  • Create New...