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Found 334 results

  1. The following is a quick summery of the 55 Forge. More in depth design and discussion can be found on the site. The original 55 Forge was bottom blast. The fire shown is a little shallow, so if there is a question, just add more fuel. The tuyere was a piece of auto exhaust pipe with 1/4 inch holes to accept 1/4 inch round bar in a X pattern to form a grate. Lots of open room for air to move up and into the bottom of the fire. The next test modification was to put a brake drum into the 55 forge as a fire pot. You can see the cone shape to the ash and the rim of the fire pot. The bricks were added to give the fire more depth for the project at hand. Ash will build up to the top of the tuyere in the bottom blast in a fire or two. There is a T configuration below the bottom of the forge that is not shown. The T section is close to the bottom of the forge and the down pipe is 12 to 18 inches long (what ever you have on hand). Clinker is not really a problem due to the size of the tuyere. Just let the fire idle for a minute or two and the clinker will solid up and can be hooked out. Ash will at times fill the down pipe and need cleaned out. I have run this forge using coal dust or breeze. Once the fuel starts to coke ( a couple of minutes into the fire ) there is very little fuel that falls into the down pipe. The next modification was to make the 55 Forge a side blast forge. Just cut a slice in the side of the wall and add an air pipe. The depth of the slice was to the top of a house brick laid on its side. It was available. The fire shown is a little shallow, so if there is a question, just add more fuel. I like this design as it is so simple to build and works. That is an aluminum clothes dryer vent pipe being used to transfer air from the blower to the forge. With the side blast version the ash and any clinker builds up under the fire. On either 55 forge, the cut edges of the metal as they are sharp. You can roll them over, or cut a 2 inch piece of metal from the parent drum, fold it in half long ways, and place it over the cut edge of the metal pan. The 55 forge was developed so that any one in any third world country could have a forge with little or no cost. The forge runs on solid fuel, coal, coke, wood, charcoal, lumbar, pallets, etc. As has been stated many times before, Fuel does not make the fire hot, Air makes the fire hot. If there is a question about how hot, then add more fuel and more air. It can and has reached welding heat. It has also melted the metal if you do not pay attention to what your doing. ( Do not ask how I know this as I was not paying attention.) The 55 Forge is a great design that is simple and works. It is easily modified to adjust the size of the fire pot, the depth of the fire pot, different tuyere configurations, and the list goes on and on. Folks thought a brake drum was needed, so I tried both a brake drum and rotor. Each has advantages and disadvantages and in the end were not required. It simply adds a level of complexity to the system and overcomplicates simple. The fun part of the 55 Forge is make one, use it, modify it as you wish. When you finish there is another 55 Forge on the other end of the drum as a spare. The label on a drum is NOT accurate, it only means that is what the drum contained just before the label was applied. I found a empty drum at a auto repair shop. The label said 5W30 motor oil with a brand I immediately recognized. Somehow the top of the drum was hooved or domed a bit. When I removed the bung plug from the bung hole there was release of pressure and an overpowering aroma of gasoline and other very volatile materials. I ask the shop manager about the drum and he said "Oh that was the one they used for racing fuel last weekend." ALWAYS choose a drum that you can pronounce what it contained before you brought it home. NEVER use anything that throws off heat or sparks when you open a closed container or drum. If in doubt, have someone else cut the drum in half while you go get a burger and fries for the both of you for lunch. The 55 Forge is just a way to get you started quickly, so you can play in the fire while you research and plan on what your second forge design will look like.
  2. After a year using a JABOD forge (using charcoal), I decided to solidify make a steel fire pot. I was tired of having to reform the sides because they'd crumble. So, inspired by the fire pot that Charles R. Stevens showed us in a different topic, I made my own. I work mostly on small items (hooks, leaves, etc.), so I wanted a shape that would conserve fuel as much as possible. This is why I added a slope on the wall opposite the tuyere. A slightly more complex shape but the bottom is only 2" by 3", while the top is 5" by 10". Total height is 6". First I made a cardboard mockup to be sure my plan worked: Everything looked good, so I proceeded with steel. I used pieces from a wood stove I took apart last year. The plates are 3/16" thick. Should be thick enough to last me a good while, considering that I spend less than 10 hours a week. Overall, it took me about 3 hours to cut the pieces, fit and weld them together. I immediately moved it into place in my existing forge. I only had time for a quick test burn. Worked well, although the sides are higher than what I was using by about an inch. It still took less charcoal to fill than the JABOD. Even better, it was much faster and easier to clean up. I should be able to do more complete testing tomorrow and deteemine whether I need to shorten it a bit. Once that is determined, I may add a rim to finish it. Cheers! Arthur
  3. I have acquired i believe, an old large forge bellow. It's large, probably 6 feet tall. I attached pictures. It was in a church,so I was assuming it was some kind of old organ,but after researching, I found forge bellows and I think that's what it is. Im not sure why the church had it,lol. I'm wondering if anyone can point me in the direction to the makers of these. I'd like to find out the history; company name, year made, etc. I would like find out if it is worth anything and if so, who I would contact? I'm so so clueless about where to go with this lol.
  4. Hey guys I just wanted to show y'all my newest forge I just built and tested. It works pretty good but still needs a few things before it's finished. I built it from a piece of tube iron I cut one side off of and I'm gonna put 2 slits in that side so I can slide it down on one end to keep the fuel source in and will make it adjustable for smaller projects. I may add a spot on top of one of the sides to hold the charcoal before it goes into the fire. I still gotta add legs too and I am gonna add a bleeder valve to make the air flow adjustable with a hole in the side of the tuyere that I can put a slide pipe on to make it more adjustable for my hair dryer. But this really worked well when I tested it. Let me know what you guys think.
  5. This is video #2 in the Blacksmith Twist or Basket handle series..
  6. Hi. I built a gas forge from a paint can. A lot of shortcuts were taken to save time and money. Many things were not done quite right according to helpful posts in this subgroup. The forge was lined with a homemade refractory composed of fireclay, grog, perlite, wood ash, and concrete. When it was first built, it could barely weld mild steel. Since it was outside, it eventually rusted through and the refractory collapsed. Even after repairs, it wouldn't weld. Some colleagues wanted to use it, so it looked like time for a new one.
  7. I'm a young kid (15) looking to get into blacksmithing. The issue is that I lack the instruction to do so, as well as a forge. I'm wondering if there is anyone in South West Washington or the greater Pacific Northwest that would be willing to help me out. I have most of the materials to fabricate a forge using a 20 lb propane bottle following Wayne Coe's instructions (excluding the burner (requires welding) and burner parts), however, I'm severely limited by my tools, lacking both a welder, and a plasma cutter as well as a shop of any sort. If there is any way in which someone would be willing to lend me a hand and help me fabricate a forge (I will of course pay for materials costs as well as time) that would be greatly appreciated. General advice or apprenticing of any shape is of course more than welcome. I'm happy to pay in cash or barter (my families owns a creamery) for any services that could be provided, whichever is preferable. My apologies if this is in the wrong directory I'm still very new to the forum. Thanks, -Will
  8. Hey everyone! I built my first forge ever yesterday out of some bricks in an old grill. I’m using a black iron pipe and a hair dryer with a shop vac attachment as my air source. Charcoal is the fuel. Mid anyone has any suggestions or recommendations please let me know what I need to do to forge properly and safely. Thanks Dallas
  9. I'm in the process of building my first venturi forge. It'll be a simple forge based off of Michael Porter's book. The main question I have is one I can't seem to find an answer to. I read LP rated teflon tape is a no-no for pressurized gas lines. So properly rated dope paste is what I hear some people use. My question about that is do you use pipe dope on your lines? If so, do you use pipe dope on your high pressure regulator, the line coming from it, the pressure gauge on the regulator, the quick shut off valve, and the backside of your burner where the line connects? I assume the last gets a little too warm for dope to work correctly, but I want to know what you guys do anyway. My concern is dope getting the regulator, gauge, and possibly the burner all fouled up. My other concern is having a gas leak and potentially losing my shop and/or some parts that I was born with. I know that it's a touchy subject, so I'll state for the record that I take full responsibility for everything that goes right or wrong in my shop and on my property. I'm only asking what you folks do for your venturi forges. I am not asking for you to tell me what to do. If you know of a resource I can use to get that information, I would greatly appreciate that as well. Thanks, Patrick
  10. So, I bought a forge. It's lined with ceramic wool and no refractory (I believe) is that okay?
  11. I have a champion 145-18 forge (the round little guy) and the fan inside of the blower has a "blade" broken off. I have the broken piece but don't see a way to repair it. Does anyone know where i can get a replacement or something else that will do the job?
  12. Hi all! I quickly progressed from coal to gas in a matter of trying coal once. we dont agree. Anyrate. Disclaimer: I am 99% self taught so..I followed the plans laid out by a youtuber i made a gas forge and burners out of an old propane tank and some pipe. (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jiSgR-IJMyk) I am quite proud of myself i learned how to stick weld also. After a couple of small projects (simple tons, knife and Kukhri) im getting more comfortable really cranking the heat. I have since then got a fire brick to go inside and i stack on the backside of the forge. I am running a 30 psi regulator. Being said when i light the forge i steadly increase the gas, when i hear popping i increase it more. At one point just recently i was unable to increase my gas flow and i kept hearing the popping. A couple questions: What do i need to do to stop this? get a higher regulator? I assume my forge was too hot? I also assume if i continue to let the popping happen that is bad? Thanks in advance.
  13. Greetings! I wanted to see if the experts on this forum might catch any red flags that may be causing combustion issues with my forge. I shot a quick video demonstrating the issue. The problem starts 3 mins, 10 secs in: I built this based mostly on the David Hammer Super C Forge and burner design (minus the side access slot). It has been running stable for months, but now after running for around 30 mins, the point of combustion shifts from the interior of the forge, to the end of the flair (about 1 inch inside the refractory). I get less time if I run it hotter. The burner port leaves about 1/4 inch of space around burner flair. Before shooting the video, I has run for a little over 30 mins. I let it cool for about 15 mins to capture the transition. Don't know if I need to tune the burner, if there are issues with my refractory, or something else that I might not have considered. I've been doing this for around 6-7 months so my knowlege is pretty limited. Any thoughts on where I might be going wrong here? Thank you for any input you might have.
  14. In the search for itc 100 replacements(price) I had learned the original formula was near 70 percent zircopax and 30 percent kaolin. When shopping i came across a high zirconia kiln wash from "The Ceramic Shop" and went to thinking. It has already been tested and formulated and its cheaper per pound.... So i bought a box and some zircopax and kaolin. My recipe was one cup wash, a third cup zircopax and one sixth cup kaolin. The mixture dried rock hard and seems to be very durable.
  15. Anyone know how I could make a Cinder-block coal forge?
  16. Does anyone know anything about Maxon Premix Burners? Someone gave me this and they said it's a gas forge. I have no use for it so I'm planning to sell. Any idea how much it's worth? It does get power it's just too rusty to work. Thanks!
  17. anybody used zircon in your forge
  18. A forge I plan on building when I get home. I can make tweaks and modifications as needed. This is just a rough concept. The air supply is going to be a 442 CFM centrifuge fan with a charcoal filter(that's whats on the back of the fan itself) and it has a speed selector switch so it's adjustable. It will go from ducting into a pipe that will hopefully be able to be placed at the bottom to supply the forge with the airflow it needs. If I do run the piping down the center like that, holes will be drilled to allow the airflow to go through but I'm not sure how that would effect how it's displaced through the forge itself, or how long the length of the pipe leading to it would effect it as well. I.e. whether or not it would be getting sufficient air supply. The inside is lined with firebrick(the brown-yellow inside), I'm just not sure what to build the outside or base from for it to be the best or what would be the best for it. Any suggestions?
  19. Thinking about picking this guy up. The fella selling wants $300 OBO. He days the blower works like a dream. How's this all sound to you guys?
  20. Today was the fated first day of my blacksmithing apprenticeship at the Daniel Boone Homestead! And I would just like to take a moment...to yell from the rooftops about how much fun it was!! I expected to work my butt off today and I was not disappointed! My master/teacher (honestly not sure about the propper terms these days) said that for the first day of me tending a forge or hammering anything on an anvil I did a really good job. (And according to one of our other smiths at the Homestead, if he says you're doing good you're really doing good!) As for burns, nicks, and other injuries, thankfully just a few extremely minor burns and a bit of soot in my nose afterwards. If I counted correctly I burned myself at least 6 times. Once was when a piece of scale flew off my piece and landed right on my hand! Thankfully, I didn't drop what I was holding in my tongs. And the other one that left a mark was when I got my hand too close to the hood over the fire and sizzled myself a bit. Today I learned how to make simple wall hooks with a small scroll and a twist. I managed to get two of them done over the course of 6 hours, which I'm really proud of. Our forge is charcoal, 18th century style, and has an old historic and busted double chambered bellow. (There's literally duct tape all over it they need to really get it replaced and put the original in a museum.) So it took a bit longer/more work to get the fire going as much as I needed it too. Here come the pictures! Here's what our forge looks like! I really love the bricked forge so when I finally can build something like this it's going to happen. Our working anvil, in the 18th century they wouldn't have had an anvil in this style, but it works for what we need. Getting the fire going, alas it's commercial charcoal so it pops and sparks a lot but hey it works so I can't complain too much. I just don't appreciate the fact that my fire is trying to be the 4th of July in the end of September. And the two hooks I made today! First one on the left, second on the right. The second one is shorter because the scroll broke twice... Ugh. Thankfully Frank (my teacher) was able to help me fix it. Techniques in the project for anyone curious are: Temperature gaging/fire managing, Drawing out a taper, gently creating a scroll, dulling down sharp edges, creating a hook on the bick, 1/4" half faced blow, drawing out shoulders, upsetting, punching a hole, and finally twisting. (and obviously removing scale) These bad boys were finally warmed and sprayed with cooking spray to help keep them rust free and make them look a little nicer. I'm extremely happy with how these turned out, and my significant other has already stolen one... Guess I'll have to make more! EDIT: I forgot to mention that I did all of the work with only a hammer. Frank helped me correct a few things with needlenose pliars where necessary but besides that, it was hammer and eventually, twisting wrench.
  21. Hello all. First post here. Just bought this forge yesterday and would love to give it a try. Bought it without legs and blower. What is this folding hood like item? Did that come with it originally? Also what is the bracket on the middle of the lid for? These are some reference pics I found of the unit in use and of the blower I need to fit. Any idea on what to call this blower? Through my searching it seems this ones reference number is elusive. Any tips for setup? Just throw some dirt in there to keep the fuel in the middle?
  22. Howdy folks, been looking for an anvil and I MIGHT have hit the jackpot. This guy says he has a Lewis anvil (doesn't sound like he know's exactly what he's got), and he's selling it for $1 per lb. I need some better pictures, but from the ones below, can y'all tell if it's too pitted/chipped on the top to be worth the buy? thanks
  23. Howdy smiths, So here's the short of it: I have a Fasco B24220 AC blower and I want to wire it to a foot pedal which will plug into a standard outlet. My trouble is, I'm electrically challenged. Any advice on electrical specs/wire/foot pedal I can buy to accomplish this? Here's the info on the wires connected to the blower (which which happens to be a NON POLARIZED AC MOTOR?): CSA CL1251 OR AWM I A/B 1258C 600V Ft-2 E29326 AWM 125*C 600 V Style F 3173 18 AWG Suitable for Switchboard Wire. Thanks and Gig'em! Micah
  24. Hi, I'm in need of a new 6" Tuyere Grate, did some searching but can only find ones in America, has anyone any links to UK sites that sells them or know of anyone who makes/sells them? Thanks
  25. Hello all, Wanted to share my first build with you guys so I can hopefully get it done in a good way the first time. I am still working on getting supplies together. I don't have a bunch of fab equipment, so I am trying to re-purpose this old stainless sink. I am looking to create a really basic forge so I can get to heating steel relatively quickly, both in the sense of a easy build, but also a build that is well insulated. One thing I am still thinking out is the angle of the burner. I know a 10/15 degree offset is recommended. I am going to try the Zoeller sidearm burner, which I know is rated for ~350cu/in, so I will work on get the insulation sized correctly. Any tips or critiques, please send them. Thanks, Mic