Fe-Wood

I want to let everyone know about the upcoming Toby Hickman Power Hammer Clinic put on by the California Blacksmiths Association! There is still one slot available for a participant and several places available for those who want to watch. I was an observer last year and felt I got way more than my moneys worth. This year, lunch is included in the price. I also said for the next clinic I want to work on the hammer!!! Toby is a master on the power hammer. He will go over the "hit-Turn" method and various tooling. I don't know what all he will cover but last years participants went home with several tools and a wealth of knowledge. Not to be missed if you have or are in the market for a power hammer! John's shop is worth the visit in itself. He has coal and coke too. Hope to see you there! Here are the specs. CBA Education Presents Toby Hickman Power Hammer Workshop Part 2 February 18, 19 2012 8:30am to 5:00pm Come and be part of the action as CBA education brings back Toby Hickman's Power Hammer Workshop Part 2. Toby will be teaching hand held tooling, open dies, snap dies and hit turn forging. There will be three power hammers in use. Workshop will be limited to 10 working students $ 225 for two days - Part 1 students receive first chance to register. Lots of room for nonparticipating students $50 for two days. Education Team will be making lunch. Check out the CBA Education Youtube channel video of last years part 1 workshop to see what you missed! https://thumbnail.constantcontact.com/remoting/v1/vthumb/YOUTUBE/859e1548854341aa9fccaa4000d4cc18 CBA Power Hammer Clinic with Toby Hickman Part 1 Location: John Mc Lellan's Blacksmith Shop 6961 Horseshoe Bar Road Loomis, CA. 95650 Map Registration opens Jan 16, 2012 - Closes Feb 13,2012 To register e-mail - Dennis Dusek and Peter Clark ateducation-north@calsmith.org California Blacksmith Association 4747Vine Hill Rd. Sebastopol CA 95472-2236 http://www.calsmith.org/

Son!!! I've been looking for you.....

Thanks for posting that Don! your right! Really good stuff there :)

Interesting story about the logo being taken off. I was figuring a Fisher because of the lugs but then I've never seen one before... Not that that means to much. I've had all kinds of ideas for that anvil. Use a water jet machine to cut in a new hardy hole, cut the heal end off cleanly and fix the edges, use it as the anvil for a treadle hammer.... It weighs in about 200 pounds so it seems worth doing something with. For now it sits on a pallet with the hoist in the picture on my loft.

Spread dogs?

Here is my unnamed beater. bought it with 2 Peter Wright's and a swage block. Face is reasonably flat but those edges.... Not sure what I'm going to do with it yet...

I would watch utube videos instead of buying those DVDs. I have them and found them to have large holes in the knowledge base. Paul's book is outstanding however.

I'm not advocating guard removal but I have found them to be more hazardous than protective. I've seen more accidents caused by having to fumble around the guard to get the job done. Table saws are the worst! I like to see the cutter therefore I know if my fingers etc. are getting to close and how the cutter is working... or not. For me, its kinda like watching the steering wheel or the tires of a moving car to know as soon as possible what its going to do and not just watching the car. As Glenn pointed out- Personal Safety is Personal!

Welcome farmw/horses! If you do use a Ball Valve, get one rated for all gasses. The ones I use have WGS casted into the valve body. If my memory is worth half a xxxx, WGS stands for Water, Gas, Steam. I'd stick with the mig tip. For the price they can't be beat and they can be up or down sized easily. As far as regulators- same thing as valve, just be sure it is rated for your intended use. I built a few of those burners several years ago and ended up buying all the pipe and mig tip taps and dies so I could size everything to my liking... Good Luck!

IMHO, That guy has some of the best videos showing a variety of techniques used for spinning. I suggest looking at all his video's. Notice the different cutters he uses for cut quality and were he is cutting, the different tips on the hand tools (wood on the one). Varying rpms for finish and how he moves various parts of the piece. Step mandrels (two different ones) that allow him to move the material in incraments to the final shape. All of that makes a difference. Note that he is spinning a 3000 series aluminum. It is like butter to work. HWoolridge- Metal spinning is a craft or art that requires all the things you know about material movement, including removal and combining it in ways you have never tried or even thought of. Take the conventional wisdom, turn it on it head then apply to spinning. At least that is how it has been for me. Thats kinda why I am so addicted to it. Try everything, watch the result. (use your own judgement as to whether it is dangerous or not. I am assuming a good solid skill level here) To answer your question about wood turning techniques used for spinning. I have found for hand spinning it is better to position the tool well below center line (at 7 or 8 o'clock). This allows a greater force to be applied to the movement of the metal. I put the handle of the hand tool in my Arm Pit and use my body weight rather than pure muscle. When trimming I tend to come in at 9 o'clock and then very that slightly depending on how it is cutting. I also rotate the tool (roll it) from left to right again looking for good cut quality. Scissor tools are different. From what I have seen, there are 3 types of spinning- Hand spinning which is using a long handled tool (mine are about 32" long). Scissor tool spinning which is using two tools to add compound leverage for greater pressure. Mechanical Spinning which would be all the CNC and memory machines used or put simply, were hydraulics run the tool.

Yes- If you have a screw on chuck it can be replaced with a threaded adaptor for use in spinning. I have one for my old Logan. I use it to make steel mandrels. Most wood lathes use 8X1" threads. Most people I talk to or read from use 4140 for hand tools to spin Copper based alloys. I have a couple Brass tipped tools for hand spinning Steel. A good off the shelf lubrication is sealing wax for toilets or dish soap. I use a product made by fourmax for lubricating metal cutting band saw blades. Thats a great video! I've watched it a few times....

HELP!! The post above is a copy from an email. How do I import the picture? Jacques- If I can help with any ?? about the tools, let me know-

Didn't work....

Wow- I'm glad to see these posts. As far as lathes go- pretty much any lathe will work. Belt drive is what both of mine are, "V" belt. One is a dedicated Spinning Lathe while the other is a Rockwell Variable speed wood turning lathe. I have seen people spin on the compact or mini Jet wood turning lathe up to huge walk-in size lathes. Frosty' dads was like that, I think. Metal Lathes work too but the 3 or 4 jaw chuck is a bit scary to me. I have my hands all over the work while I'm spinning and those jaws are made for grabbing. I have tried a bunch of different woods for the mandrel and Eastern Hard Maple or Rock MAple has continued to be the best. Any dense hardwood will work on small diameter work. I have used Mahogany, Brown Oak, Eucalyptus, Bass Wood, Cherry etc. One thing to be careful of is pushing the spun material to the mandrel so hard it can't be removed. Deep and shallow tapers are the worst for this. Mike- It is that trance state that works. The forming happens fast and if it is over thought... OOPS, its a target. I recently went thought and sorted all the scrap generated from my efforts- Copper, Brass, Aluminum, Galv. and mild Steel. When I sell it as scrap, I bet I get a couple hundred bucks for it all. I agree, its one of the hardest things I have tried to learn! Woody- Flat belt lathes will work- Can you get pictures? Are you handy making tooling and modifications? It sounds old and heavy. Nice trait in a spinning lathe! Sight unseen, I say go for it. I will put up a post with some of the basics for beginning spinning in the next couple days....

I am asking if there are people interested in learning the art of metal spinning. I am in no way a master rather a committed beginner. I have been spinning for about 3-4 years and am self taught. I have found getting good information really hard. It seems the Art of Metal Spinning is in this country is dying. It would thrill me to see a revitalization of the amazing metal working process in the way blacksmithing has seen a revitalization. To me the 2 go hand in hand. I have posted this question with the hope of getting a discussion going with any and everyone interested.

Yes! Notice my original post date and the first reply date almost exactly 1 year. Its an involved process Glenn. Its really simple in a very complex way. Kinda like drawing a really smooth, flat and nice taper on a power hammer in one heat using the hit-turn method. I can't say who looked and why over the last year. How many people here spin metal, would like to learn to spin metal or would like to discuss the process? It this a topic for a thread? If it is I'm in! As I'm sure you have seen, I have posted a lot of work and discussion about metal spinning over the years and I have receive great support for the work but not allot of interest in the process. If that could be changing, I would love that! I have been looking for a place to learn and share metal spinning. I have sent hundreds of emails to countless people looking for knowledge on spinning. I have receive some real gems but mostly, I don't hear back . Those gems have kept me going and furthered my knowledge and ability. Metal Spinning seems to be a dying art. Somewhat like Blacksmithing was 20-30 years ago. I think I will begin that thread....

Michael- It defiantly was an accident but not a happy one. At that point in my learning to spin it was a major stumbling block and frustrating. I did make a few that had the wrinkle only on the edge. I liked those but have not learned how to reproduce that effect on purpose. Glenn- I will be writing an article for the California Blacksmiths Associations Magazine in the next year or so and it might include a followup article or just another section on some of the things to watch out for while spinning metal and how to correct mistakes. At this point, I don't see the interest here. If a few (4 or more) people really have an interest it what was the cause and how to avoid it, I would be happy to share what I know. I had a nice dialogue going with Frosty until his accident and a few people jumped into the conversation. That was great! I love talking about spinning, I'm fairly addicted to it. But I'm not interested in just hearing myself speak. Consider this an invitation looking for interest in the conversation. The explanation will take some time and be fairly involved.

Thats beautiful! Do we get to see the temper colors?

So thats what that dance step is called Ogrechicken? I'd leave it myself.... Everytime I put something away I just end up getting out again....

If there is real interest, I will be happy to explain but its hard to put into words.

Thanks for the info, I have sense gotten that problem sorted out.... On to the next one :rolleyes:

Wanna Trade? I'll even deliver! :lol: :lol:

Mine is 4X4 all stock. I get those numbers around town. I'm also gentle on the pedal. How many miles you got. I didn't start getting that kind of milage until I hit 50K or more. I'm at 190K now and it purrs going down the road and doen't burn a drop of oil. I had a 6.9 Ford a while back that needed a quart of oil at every fill up :(

Griffinforge- Nice job on the platform. Let me know how it works for you! I'm worried I will push mine through my 4" thick Floor. I don't have it running yet....

Judson- Look at the cummins diesel. On my last trip I got an average of 22.5 MPG. this included around town and travel speeds of 75mph. The average was over about 2k miles. I've considered trading to a Tacoma but I use the pulling power of the cummins to much...FWIW...