stan

I agree you can`t change its history and I accept it, and as it was at the time I bought the anvil there was an similar size PW with all the markings intact and very little damage and was just about to clinch the deal when I notice a hair line crack at the waste , so lucky because then I would have something to winge about

Hi Frank ,its funny how these practices were in a lot of trades, but you wouldn`t do it now ay.It reminds me of when I first started working on cars .If you need to replace a welch plug( think you guys call them freeze plugs)you were told to punch the old into the water jacket an let it rust away.

Hi Dan I agree any damage to the work surface is much worse. That photo of my anvil in a rusty state I took just before I bought it, it looks like this now .I know I seem to be carrying on like a two bob watch about this but any damage to an anvil through misuse is regrettable and I do class testing chisels on anvil feet as misuse, you say its not going to hurt the anvil see picture of right front foot.

Hi nkearns have a close look at the side with orange paint that's were the marking would be on a peter wright, hit it with a wire brush and use chalk to high lite any marks. Does look like a PW; pity about the missing section of top plate but even so you could still use it if you stay on the rear 3\4 section and of course the horns ok. For moving stuff that's a good score. Cheers.

Hey mate if you are going to brag show pictures

Yes arftst, put like that I can see your side more now, and your right in that it could have happened 100 years ago. Cheers stan.

I think that if this practice off `testing chisels ` had continued on this anvil it may have resulted in the feet being removed. Not to mention the senseless removal of the makings of ,even when purchased, a famous brand anvil. I can understand to a point why it was done but really who buys a chisel to use on an anvil feet, no one, so why not demonstrate on a block of steel or similar. Anyway lucky this anvil is certainly not ruined.

That's an apt quote, and other fools follow the practice of theses fools and think that's what everyone does. Recently you talked about re stamping the weight numbers on an anvil after the true weight has been established, I guess stamping markers information would be out of the question, I'll just have to except it as part of its history.

That it, they probably use a shifter as a hammer

Yeah ,I believe the practice was more common in big industrial blacksmith shops where as you say if its not theirs its not their problem.

This subject may have already been discuss at some point but I could not find it. The practice of testing chisels and punches on the lower section of an anvil seems so wrong at any level. And the craftsmen ( so Called) who partake in this practice of slowly ruining the most important tool of their trade surely could not think its a good idea .I have heard others discussing TP for instance but I still can not under stand why. My large PW anvil, which I am very fond of has not only had all its markings removed but significant damage to the lower wrought iron section and feet.I have worked in machine shops and if anyone was doing something that would damage one of the machines there would be xxxx to pay.

wow fantastic work

I could be wrong but I had not heard of a peter wright with serial numbers stamped on the front feet normally just a letter on each foot.

Your right, I think that does sound better

yes I agree its a PW mine has the H on the foot as well no sure what it means, maybe a manufacturing number .Pity about the grinding don`t take any more off just use it. Great price though.

Yes, what Ivan said.

I raised this issue as` basic question` in Fed 2015 and was told then that it had been deal with at length before . But anyway I am left handed and think that using an anvil does not pose as much as a challenge as for instance a lathe or other machines for the left handers who most seem to adapt pretty quickly.

Too right ausfire, like Charles Mcraven says in his book, "And I`ll listen to all the old folks whose fathers or grandfathers had been smiths like me (only better, of course, as they remembered it, having been much older and wiser)"

Wishing you well Ian.

I zadvorney there's a few things to consider , first if your only using the fan for room ventilation only there would not be so much an issue with heat and a section of steel ducting through your wall penetration would stop air going into a wall cavity. I would prefer to have to fan assembly inside and duct the air out ,there may be a problem with noise if its mounted on the side of the building and some of those motor are not weather proof. Electrical connection would also be easier.

I like it all especially the post vice. Did you plan for a whole blacksmith shop or did you start with just the anvil and it grew?

I don`t think I would bother running an a\c unit it would have to be huge to combat the Btus being put out by your gas forge.Go for an air extraction system and put the a\c inside the house where you go for a cold beer when finished

That's a great axe and interesting video especially the fact you are using a small gas forge .

Your spot on ausfire I have two oxy/acet kits and would love to have one handy, For the last 30 years have always had a set in the company work truck, but its just way too expensive from BOC. I even though of going to air/acetylene at least you only have to hire one bottle.

Thanks for another great video Tubbe ,nice design so spring steel is used for is toughness but not heat treated.