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Found 12 results

  1. Over the last 8 years I have been asked a number of times to make a very certain type of sword, and I seam to be the only person to have ever reproduced it. The sword is the Spanish model 1728 Cavalry Sword. We are lucky to have a number of originals in privet and public collections, and the original arsenal diagram for their construction. After much trial and error I have found a great way to forge the hilt from one piece and want to share. This technique works well for any semi-complex to complex hilt (with the addition of more rings once the base is forged). Here is a picture of my most recent Spanish M1728 copy (12/2/19), measurements taken from the original #7366 in the collection of Arizona Historical Society. Now the WIP of how to make it! I start with a piece of mild steel that measures 5/8 x 1 x 12 inches. Lay out the "center" at 4 inches form one end, 8 inches from the other. Notice on the hilt above that one side has three pieces (pass ring, quillion, knuckle bow) and the other side only has two (pass ring, and quillion), Lay these out as straight lines parallel to the bar. Now for the super secrete part! Draw in the block (where everything comes together and the tang slot is) at a slight angle. Remove the waste. I use a band saw, but what ever tools you have. You can see I also shortened the pass ring and quillion to their final length of 4in on either side of the block (the knuckle bow is the long piece and will be shortened once bent to final shape) I mill the slot in the shoulder, but you can also hot slit this with a chisel. Later the tang slot is hot punched with a 3/16 x 1/2 punch which opens the block up and makes a nice swell in this area Once all this cold work is done, it is time to fire up the forge! First forge the angle out of the block, aligning the quillions both sides. Once the block can sit on the anvil you can punch the tang slot (3/16 x 1/2in punch). Then begin opening all the arms Once open stop before you round over the rings so that you can get in the tight spots with grinder or files and bring all the "arms" to final thickness either forging or grinding Now bend the arms to final position and trim to final length. At this point grind / file (whitesmith) the hilt, fit to blade, etc. If I wanted side rings etc, I would weld them on (arc or mig) and file to hide the joints. But I bet one of you is creative enough to figure out how to get everything out of one piece! Thanks for looking! I look forward to seeing what others do with this idea! If you have any questions or want to see more of my work please check out my website www.irontreeforge.com
  2. I've been making these little work in progress videos for fun, customers, you guys, and whoever's interested. Honesty is always appreciated, I do these to help get critique.
  3. Some pics of a sunobe I forged today along with another sunobe my friend forged as well at his place
  4. Ok so I have been working on making this chefs knife for my cousin. I fored it to shape and was pretty satisfied with the blade profile. I held it up to one of my store bought ones and its pretty close to the same dimensions. I went with a flat grind for the blade and that was fine. One side is much cleaner than the other but im not completely unhappy with it. One of my final steps was to etch the blade. Now in the past i have used boiled vinegar to etch this same material and was happy with the results but was unhappy with the way it completely stunk the house up. So i decided to try some ferric chloride. First thin i can tell you is this pro tip. DO NOT PUT FERRIC CHLORIDE INTO A TIN FOIL BAKING TRAY!!! Yea turns out that that causes a chemical reaction. Extreme heat, smoke, boiling chemical. Lucky i had some gloves so i could pick it up and dump the whole thing into a plastic bucket which stopped the reaction. So yea after that i got a plastic container and poured the ferric into that and submerged the blade for 20 minutes to get the etch. I used one of those green dish sponge things to rub the etchant once i took the blade out and cleaned it all up. So the etch took and the pattern came out fine. But here is the thing. The etchant left this weird rusty looking residue on the blade which i think some of this pictures show. Now i thought it was actually rust so i put the blade into hot water and scrubbed the heck out of it with an SOS pad but it didnt do anything so now i need to re sand the whole thing and etch the sucker again. What did i do wrong?
  5. My first several blades were swords, and what a mistake that was. It took me a wasted year to truly understand what a monumental challenge a sword truly was, at which point I focused on knives. I would forge a sword once or twice a year because of adamant customers, but they were unrefined and crude. This will be my first real sword, confident enough to attempt it only because of my recent success with 3D printed cast bronze components. Luckily the customer was eager to embrace the technology/technique, and we had a great time coming up with the perfect gift for her husband. A tiger themed katana with paw tsuba and roaring head pommel. There will be a small sapphire in it's mouth. Handle and scabbard will be wenge, which I will be CNCing some accents into. Some rough 3D modeling The initial billet was a twisted wrought iron spine with counter-twisted 15n20 and 1080 edge... however I must have pushed the old iron too far because as it drew out into the final shape it turned to pulled pork... so sad. Only thought to take one picture, which was before the final weld. I had used twisted wrought iron spines in several blades before with success, so I was really disheartened by the loss. I decided to take a step back and went with an even more familiar san-mai of W2 and 15N20 with 1045 shims for contrast and a little pattern - after all, it was a tiger themed knife, so a stripe felt appropriate. I brought in my good friend Marco to do a little bashing on this piece; he had wanted to try blacksmithing for a few years, and I wanted help drawing out the 2.5"x1.5" cross section monster billet this started as. I also had a secret agenda of wanting his noob hammer blows to impart a more random pattern. I think it worked. Comment and critique always welcome, more to come soon
  6. I've been talking to some of you about a skinning knife I'll be making with a checkered handle. It's part of a set themed around some of the great American explorers. The first knife in the set, "The Clark," is a pretty straight forward drop-point hunter. Here's the WIP.... and the obligatory injury photo. More to come tomorrow.
  7. Damask blade (bought) with silver birch handle with silver spacers and white wulcan. Design Sketches: Rough Shapes: First Sanding pass: In the glue station: Nearly finished sanding: Test oiled: Test Oiled and spacers filed down Test oiled: Wanted the pattern to be more prominent so colored the handle: Wanted the pattern to be more prominent so colored the handle, closeup: Wanted the pattern to be more prominent so colored the handle, closeup: Final sanding done, silver polished and first coat of oil added:
  8. I began collecting knives two or so years ago. Right from the outset I wanted to make my own knives at some point. This summer I took a basic blacksmithing course. After a couple months of acquiring tools, and fooling around I almost have a knife like object finished. Unfortunately, I don't have any pictures of it during the early stages. These picture were taken after forging in the basic bevels, and a fair bit of grinding. It was forged from a bar of 1084 that was 1.25" x 3/16". The current width is somewhere in the area of about an inch. As you can see it is far from perfect. I still need to forge in some shoulders (I plan to do this at right where at the portion where I haven't ground the edge in), extend the tang, and unmangle it (I plan to do this at right where at the portion where I haven't ground the edge in). Also there are some cold shuts in the tang area that I need to deal with. I should be able to grind them out, as the tang is roughly 4mm thick. And of course, I will need to harden it. I am still not quit sure what form the finished product should take. I originally intended to make a puukko-esque thing, but I knackered the point. After hammering in the bevels, I decided that I'd better start grinding it. I tend to get hung up on details, so I decided that if I tried to forge my first knife perfectly there wouldn't be a first knife--I would just spend forever trying to get it right. This knife is obviously pretty rough. My plan is to finish it to the best of my ability, and then make the next one less terrible. To me it kinda looks like a petty knife, but the geometry is too thick. I am thinking I may just use it as a general purpose outdoorsy knife. I have never been terribly fond of the curved tips common on scandi knives, so this will be a bit of an experiment to see if this sort of profile is useful I guess? Anyway, I am looking forward to your comments and criticisms. Cheers!
  9. I have made stock removal knives off and on for some time under the guise of MCK. Since I was a child I have wanted to smith and now that the bride, tribe, and I have bought a house I now have a place to do it. I have a RR track stood up in a 5 gallon pail on concrete as my anvil and a rim I found in my woods as a forge. The blower is a hair dryer and it is wood fired. I also got a anvil on loan from a family member that also does a little smithing and knife making but I haven't got a stump for it yet. I have made various hooks and a RR spike knife in the forge but tonight I had got a dozen or so 6" dia bearing races that I'm going to make a few blades out of. This stuff takes a little more to move than the low carbon I've been working. It was about an hour long process to hot cut the bearing and get it straight. When I get to a computer I'll upload some pictures and do a WIP as I make this knife. I'm interested to see how it will compare to my 440c and CPM-154 blades. My wife has a paring knife I made her a few Christmas' ago out of CPM S35VN. I'm hoping to make her a longer one out of this 52100 so she can test it. Hope you enjoy watching this!
  10. I've spend a few hours working on this Mini Uruk Hai scimiter. I'm a huge fan of Lord of the Rings so I thought "why not make a nice little piece?" Now I do know that the knife is rough, but its still a WIP. But I have a question for any LOTR fans, should the spike on the back be shorter?
  11. 126 layer twist with nickel silver and red micarta. Blade mat'l is 15N20 and pallet strapping. It heat treated well and seems nice and hard......we'll see about that after I give it a bunch of abuse! As you can tell the handle has not been glued or finished. I will post again when it's finished!
  12. Hi this is my second try at pattern welding. Last summer when I made my first attempt the billet was too big so I cut it in half and stuck the other half in my pile of scrap. Well last week I dug it out and forged this. It is etched in vinegar wich I am not entirely happy with so I will probobaly sand it down and redo it in ferric. If all goes well I will get it finished next weekend. Thanks for looking, -Justin
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