trying-it

Any tool that I later discover was not designed or made right the first time! :rolleyes:

Inspiring design and great work as usual Mike :lol:

That is nice work John! You were really missed at the 2012 hammer-in, but we fully understand that you could not be in 2 places at once. Stan

I also did a BP on "anvil hold downs" and included pictures of my hardy hole vise setup I use at demos for twisting and such. http://s64.beta.photobucket.com/user/trying-it/media/002.jpg.html?sort=3&o=2 http://s64.beta.photobucket.com/user/trying-it/media/003.jpg.html?sort=3&o=1

Great job and like the design.

John I enjoyed the time spent together probably as much as you. You watch, listen, and learn fast. It will be my pleasure working with you more! The short time you spent with the clay work allowed you the time and mindset to grasp enough hands-on skills to make the rose day 1. The rose project incorporates many of the same exact needed skills and processes to forge other future things such a knife or sword. :ph34r: Glad you enjoyed your visit to the ultimate do-it-yourselfers' mancave! :D Stan

Only power needed is foot power. My 6-yr-old g'daughter use to smash 6 soda cans placed in standing 3 x 2 side by side formation, end result from 1 stomp of her little foot ended with all cans less than 1/8" thick. I once demonstrated at Glenn's place in W. Va. (IFI founder/Admin) that if wanted 3 hits in same place could about vaporize hot 1/2"sq stock , or sit on a bar stool type chair and do fine copper/brass etc. chasing / repousse' with ease. There are numerous control settings on unit to adjust the foot power to hammer blow delivered ratio and stroke length. Did I mention I have a full machine shop, engineering degrees, and a lot of years of manufacturing experience? I know how to make things work better! B) And NO I do not sell plans, but could not stop anyone from taking pictures and taking detailed measurements. :rolleyes: Stan

Why not make a little trip up here and see/try a real inline treadle hammer, about 165# hammer wgt with 8" combo dies. :rolleyes: Control smooth as silk with the kick of a mule if need be! Stan

Interesting work and nice chat!!!!! Stan

I think I can actually relate to that "Mental Stan" thingy! :wacko: Nice hammer, watching for a very similar model at SIUC to go on public auction as it leaked oil like a sieve inside and they have already replaced it with another new model. I'm thinking the cylinder needs a good rebuild and hope with several inches of oil still left inside case that it sells real cheap!!! :ph34r: Stan

You forgot to mention making Micarta (or Trycarta in my case) can be addicting! :rolleyes: And that addiction may move into more advanced stages, next thing you know you are into mosaic pin making, similar processes! B)

I saw the last 1/2 of show on the first night and figured I would catch it all later in week too..... dang vice pres debates killed that great idea! Thanks for the link Bill. Ric great job all the way around!

Great links guys, thanks a bunch! Stan

for starters or a quick process review check out "The Grid method of resizing" at: http://sibleyfineart.com/tutorial--gridding-art.htm

I use AutoCad, paper/pencil, and such. In any format I like to use graph paper type background so re-sizing full scale is not that big of chore. In a class at SIUC last year where we made window grilles and such a small sketch had to be submitted on 8-1/2" X 11" for preview, then expanded full scale for construction. My full size was 28" X 40" Small sketch was on graph paper and I found a great product for the full size construction pattern. It is Cement backer board used for behind ceramic tiles and such on walls. The backer board has 1" squares cast into it for ease of tile laying, but those 1" squares also make transferring 1/8" or 1/4" graph paper sketches a cinch. Draw your lines in any medium and then white latex paint over for your next project. Another added bonus is that the cement backer board is fireproof and can withstand the heat from the hot forged items being placed on pattern. I got a 3' x 5' sheet at Lowes for $5. as it was chipped on 1 corner and had a "reduced" price!

3" sq X over 5" long "after heavy machining", forge welded wrought iron and mild billet. Center drilled, turned rounds, and tapered ends on lathe, milled 4-sides flat and cut keyholes on mill. IMHO: If delamination issues in lathe are a safety concern use a 4-jaw chuck instead of a 3-jaw Worm eaten appearance is from 16hrs of deep/strong acid etching to attain those exact type desired results. Color for wood-like look is from water diluted hydrogen peroxide sprayed on mist, little sprinkle of table salt on wet surfaces, neutralized, air dried, clear coated Was a vessel project for my recent university artist blacksmith class, but will end up a desk lamp base soon :D Stan

Probably a good first choice. It also comes in a few different colors so later if you get bit by the pattern welding/damascus bug you can play with pattern development :rolleyes:

Go to Hobby Lobby or such and invest a few dollars in a block of Roma Plastilina clay http://www.artmolds.com/product_details.cfm?product_id=121&page=0&cat_name=Clays Hammer and tool it into a desired shape or object. Hammer it lightly on your anvil too! Try your texture tools, eye punches, slitters/drifts, etc. in it first. Whatever you can do to that clay you can also do in hot metal, just remember using your fingers may be an option in the clay, but not in hot metal so omit this process from your list of can-do's! Clay will also show how much material is needed for a specific shape or size, but greatly reduces steel scrap generated during trial and error. Once something is tried just form the clay back into a ball for later use. Keep trying, have fun, and BE safe! Stan

Great job!

Now he does a doghead style hammer! :wacko: Oh well there is always the 2013 hammer-in and "trade" items :rolleyes: Nice work Richard!!

Wrought iron can also result in wood grain textures on flats and cable looking strands on end grain. This is wrought and mild over 3" sq X over 5" tall. A 16-hr strong acid etch produced and shows the desired wood grain look and cable strand looking ends while the mild remains untouched by acid. Forced rust patina and clear coat provides the wood looking color. (will be a desk lamp base soon) Stan

Richard not sure if you had seen this article yet, but go to this link: (and then click "look inside" feature for a pic and diagram) http://rd.springer.com/article/10.1007/BF03220550 Stan

"charging more for mixed metals" would sure justify paying for a Henrob real fast!!!! (Run that 1 by Kathy) :rolleyes: Similar to selling a vase in 1 area, or as a higher priced "vaz" in other markets, or as a "vessel form" in the highest price range! B) :ph34r: Same piece, just different marketing strategy used for higher return on investment!

Thank you Rich :D 45 yrs machining-welding-fabricating experience, engineering degrees, a shop most people call a "factory" when they first see it. I can still do a lot here, but my biggest goals today are to pass on a a little of my wisdom and knowledge learned at the school of hard knocks, and to make people smile. To me a friend's smile is priceless and I will use all my skills to make it happen when and if I can! "Rich Hale = Stan is not teasing by withholding details. A list a mile long of wot to do would simply not enable a person new to metal work to do wot he has done with these anvils." This is why IFI has a BP section! Pictures are taken during the actual process, a written explanation of each attached, and it is given to IFI for presentation to the members. When someone asks a question they can be directed towards a specific BP # and the information can be found. The BP format beats typing into individual forum posts and trying to type answers to each with words alone. Once a BP is seen the reader can try it themselves if they are capable, or contact BP author, or simply end up with a better understanding of what all is envolved for that specific topic. Bob S. you are close as Blake has stated, but there are even variables with drilled and tapped holes to be considered. :D I will say that final milling of that face had chips flying everywhere, not the silver or blue flavor, but the glowing red hot little monsters that really keep an old man hopping like molten borax from forge welding a monster billet. You better know how to sharpen carbide bits because it eats them fast! I will submit a BP soon on this topic, patience grasshopper :ph34r:

I never recall saying I "bolted" the new face on. Bolted on and hot riveted are 2 totally different methodologies. At any time Jeff finds he does not like his repaired-my-way anvil, I will gladly buy it off him and use it here! This is the 3rd anvil I repaired with this method and earlier 2 are still happily being used today. Rumor has it I have more headed my way in the very near future for similar repairs.