trying-it

Just a little update: My initial sales strategy of BigFoot treadle hammers was to demo a unit at any organized blacksmith event I was invited to attend; my travel & lodging expenses paid for by that group. I want everyone to try a working unit before actually purchasing one for themselves. I never considered the possibility of interest being generated so quickly outside of the continental U.S.A (I am now open to suggestions from those outside of the "Lower 48".) After the demo session, orders would be taken from interested individuals. At a predetermined time & date I would return with the "purchased" units to that same location; I and the unit buyers (only) would fully assemble the units. It takes about 20 minutes to fully assemble one of my units. Being sold in a "kit" form, I am not subject to "product liability insurance premiums" that themselves would substantially increase unit selling price. The unit buyer would be responsible for final sanding, grinding, and painting of their own unit; another price savings. This also provides a window of opportunity for the individual buyer to personalize their unit. The selling of plans is not an option at this time as there are hidden technical advances within these units. These advances are "Patent Pending" and each unit is stamped with that warning. (All unit buyers will be required to read, fully understand, and sign legally binding "non-disclosure / non-competition" forms.) As a machine shop, job shop, owner/operator I have the facility and capacity to produce high quality precision equipment and tooling in a short period of time. ***My special interests today focus primarily on blacksmith needs and wants. ***

http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/f7/treadle-hammer-build-pictures-4338/

Just to give you a rough idea about the BigFoot treadle hammers I built for Pam, myself, and others: Hammer weight is 165# The 2 return springs are 150# type. Total unit weight is in excess of 600#. The combo dies are 1-1/2" wide X 8" long Tredle hammer - Blacksmith Photo Gallery 100_0155 - Blacksmith Photo Gallery 100_0157 - Blacksmith Photo Gallery 2 pair of finished faces - Blacksmith Photo Gallery treadle hammer anvil & hammer faces - Blacksmith Photo Gallery playing more - Blacksmith Photo Gallery Results of a single hit, a double, and a triple in 1/2" sq, same heat flattened_by_BigFoot1 - Blacksmith Photo Gallery Just playing - Blacksmith Photo Gallery Treadle hammers are very handy tools! Have fun guys and always BE safe!

"the Best Treadle Hammers in Production" is in no way dead! Sorry guys I have been having computer problems for the last couple of months. I can now be reached at trying_it@hotmail.com As for the website presently being a little incomplete the reasoning is, because of this model's uniqueness, legal and binding patent rights are being applied for at this time. A few facts about a BigFoot treadle hammer: My 7-yr-old grand daughter easily flattens 6 soda cans at once, in one stomp, to a thickness of 1/8. A trial unit was sold and is used for fine copper repousse work. I myself prefer billet making and blacksmithing with my unit. One unit can do it all. This is a foot-operated 165# hammer head with precise and consistent results. The harder you hit, the harder the force is multiplied and delivered. Furthermore, an optional air package is being designed now to replace the treadle mechanism if so desired. That will make it a fully functional air hammer. (note:This optional package will require a user supplied large capacity air source) No advertisement hype: I want you to stomp all the rest, then come here and step on the best. An even bigger hammer is being designed that will be strictly dedicated to an on-board, fully contained, air supply and delivery system. This future unit's hammer should be in the 250# (or more) hammer range.

Aaron for a first-class repair you could always consider a friend with a full-service machine shop. You could ship it here or take a road trip and watch. Just an offer LOL

Thusfar it has been either modify the equipment and/or the individual wanting to 'smith. Both options are highly feasible & workable. However I offer a third realm of possibilities, adapt the processes. An example:mini hydraulic presses. I love a good challenge & quest. http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/f7/santa-blacksmith-2193/

Howdy CG, We are almost next door neighbors. I'm about 45 miles W/SW of Mt. Vernon, IL. I hang out in the chat or email me at trying_it@hotmail.com Hope to talk sometime. BE safe

Copper Sulfate can be purchased in crystal form. Dissolve some crystals in water, emmerse or spray/mist item and a copper petina will result. Oven time the copper petina itself will turn to the aged copper "geen" finish. Apply paste wax after item has dried. Another favorite is liquid cold gun blue; it will even blacken fresh brazing rod welds.

Recently a lot of interest has been generated in regards to hydraulics being used within the 'smithing realm. I recently came accross a John Deere hydraulic technician service manual and thought I would first share some of its info with you: Safety Bulletin: Subject: Oil Injection Injuries "Escaping fluid under pressure can pentrate the skin causing serious injury. If ANY fluid is injected into the skin, it must be surgically removed within a few hours by a doctor familiar with this type of injury or gangrerne may result." A small pinhole sized leak in a pressurized hydraulic hose can cut through any body part in a heartbeat. Hydraulic fluid is also highly flammable; before using, all dangers and safeguards must be properly addressed. Hydraulics are a powerful tool that must be fully understood and respected. They have been used throughout manufacturing & industrial processes with unmatched and superior capabilities. For those interested in hydraulic basics consider the following link as a good starting point: Northern Hydraulics Inc. - We supply the finest hydraulic pumps, motors, valves and Honda equipment offered.

I have used an ax, splitting maul, sledge & wedges to split a lot of wood. A hydraulic log splitter does it faster & much easier. Now consider a hammer, anvil, and armstrong method of forging and compare to the hidden forces behind hydraulic theory. The older and less healthy I become, the more I wish I would have worked smarter not harder when I was younger! A press first, then you can start adding the tooling to do just about anything. I'm easy to find in the chat room.

Radio Shack sells a quite inexpensive product called "PCB (Printed Circuit Board) etchant." In a plastic spray bottle mix a little PCB with water. Apply light and even mist over everything you want rusted. Reapply to any areas where heavier rust finish is desired. BTW: Works best outside in direct sunlight and/or on warm piece. Solution may stain concrete so avoid spills. Once completed, the rusted finish can also take on an almost leather looking finish by simply applying a coat or two of a good paste wax product.

If at all possible do process completely outside so fumes are of less concern. It also saves an even bigger mess from happening if solution(spills) or fizzing foam gets on shop floor. In that event a lot of baking soda & some water will neutralize that mess too.

Nick it works great for zinc removal and/or as a pattern weld etchant! For either use I combine the muriatic acid with a little water too. Follow all safety rules related to acid use, mixing, storage, disposal, etc. I was taught this method in university level artist blacksmithing courses. Many are unaware that zinc/galvanized can actually remain hidden under a rusty coating too. I automatically test all rusty materials now too as I have had zinc sneak up & bite me on more than one occasion with sickening consequences. Place item in solution and if even a small amount of zinc is present (seen or unseen) a reaction and fizzing will begin almost immediately. Allow acid bath to continue until ALL fizzing stops, then rinse item in baking soda & water to neutralize. BE SAFE, NOT SORRY! I would much rather talk to you than about you! Hope this info helps!

Nick, I myself have used muriatic acid (diluted some with water) on numerous occasions for etching and/or for removing galvanized. [Follow acid & water mixing and all other related safeguards] I was taught the trick in a university level artist blacksmithing class. There are numerous pieces of rusty scrap to be had that have a dangerous zinc/galvaized coating lurking just under the rusty coat. I now automatically give a muriatic test bath to all rusty parts too. When placed in diluted muriatic zinc/galvanized will almost instantly begin to react & fizz, even if it is hidden under a rusty layer. Continue bath until ALL fizzing stops, then rinse in baking soda & water to neutralize. Before using this safety process I had zinc sneak up & bite me a few times will sickening results. Be safe, not sorry! I would much rather talk to you than about you! Hope this info helps.

The greatest gift I could ever recieve is that of seeing a fellow human being smiling; knowing that particular smile is present because of some contribution or effort on my part. Pam your smile will continue to warm my heart on the coldest day. A BIG thanks to all the others that helped make this day possible & memorable! Now if the rest of the world (and its many inhabitants) could only work together so well!