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I Forge Iron

trying-it

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Everything posted by trying-it

  1. I like it! IMHO The un-planished look gives it real character! (I would bet that even the mightiest Viking had a bad hair day on occasions!) Stan
  2. Those fine looking tools sure look familiar! :rolleyes: B) :ph34r: Stan
  3. I know entirely new names at the past events are planning on coming this year! :ph34r: We just call them "skeet" here for short :P
  4. Have 1 here,the little #109 looks even smaller if it gets anywhere near my other lathes! What they can do without even trying hard:
  5. We have not turned anyone away in the past 6 so why start now! We even let Steve Sells attend! :ph34r:
  6. It is fun having John visit here for my hammer-ins, that man could probably just about nail anything!!! :ph34r: He brings almost a whole blacksmith shop with him too! :rolleyes: He even lets people work with him during the event. :D Sept 13, 14, 15 - 2013 is coming on fast and can't wait to see what new stuff he has up his sleeves B) Stan
  7. Howdy and welcome Saign :D Thanks for the links to your tutorials library. I dabble with the processes, but you sure have them mastered and your Tutorial Tuesday clearly show/explain how I can advance my own skills further. All your work is super high quality and your portfolio book cover is way over the top! Look forward to seeing more of your future work and upcoming vids so will be watching :ph34r: Be safe! Stan
  8. When silver soldering in past during jewelry making I have used and had great results with liquid "White-Out" sold in office supply stores to cover typing errors. Just brush on any areas you want a resist for solder and flux - allow to air dry a while B4 applying any flux or solder. As with many other things - what works for me may not for others. :ph34r: I too strongly suggest you do some trial testing yourself. :D Stan
  9. What about homemade Micarta scales? Most are resin/fabric based but I plan to make some for a few straight razors here and intend to mix my own saved hair (from beard and head hair trimmings) mixed with colored resin. Also been saving old used dry sheets to color/dye and put inside my cast hair micarta for added strength/stability. However,let it be known that my heirs get my hair only after I am gone! :ph34r: B) :P Stan
  10. Real nice work with a lot of future potential. :) Stan
  11. Real nice work, thanks for sharing. :) Come for a visit here sometime and/or attend my 7th annual 3-day hammer-in here in Sept.! :ph34r: Stan
  12. Past 6 here were always in August, but I am now joining the regional antique Steam group and their 5-day show dates are same as my past 3-day hammer-in. I am a Gemini, but still can not figure out how to hammer there and be here at same time! :D
  13. The 7th annual "Trying-It" hammer-in for 2013 will be Fri-Sun Sept. 13-15. (Many travelling long distances have been known to arrive early and leave later than actual event dates!) :ph34r: Note the date/month changes as we moved the event to 3rd weekend in Sept vs.3rd weekend in Aug of past years! We feed 3X/day..... farm setting here so bring a tent. (Camper/RV park within 2 miles of us) Zipcode 62274 to Mapquest. We live 6.5 miles north of that on IL. State Rt 127 Come make some more memories with us again!!!! Last year IFI members from 7 States attended. :D email trying_it2@yahoo.com if you need more details, exact address, cell #, etc. Stan
  14. Another option for future reference is to buy 4140 from steel supplier in already half-hardened state. Still easy enough to machine and start using immediately after! :D I use half-hard 4140 as starting material for the bigger type dies used on a Nazel 3B and such. Stan
  15. That turned out real nice Darren :D I think you are fast approaching the point of having way too much fun! :P
  16. Real nice as usual Darren! Great sheath design too! :D Stan
  17. I have to agree with Francis. I too tried the rest in the past then built my own using the inline design. I use 8" combo dies on mine as the hammer head weight is 165 lbs. Stan Link to a pic of mine.... http://www.iforgeiron.com/gallery/image/19042-100-0155/
  18. Aaron and Bill...... Great job. You guys are "almost" having too much fun up there! Hope you both visit again soon and yes you can let Michael tag along too. :rolleyes: Stan
  19. Get better dear friend, prayers sent your way. Stan
  20. Looks real purty Steve and not a speckle of purple anywhere! :rolleyes: Yet..... B) :ph34r: :P Have fun and be safe pal! Stan
  21. Great job Mike and love the unique design! Stan
  22. Great job Paul, I like it. :D
  23. Who me? :wacko: :ph34r: :D :P As for a can liner you might consider a castable silicon carbide refractory as used in high dollar crucibles and the same as steel mills use; I use it a lot inside my gassers as a topcoat over "wool" and love it as it is 100% flux-proof. There is also a silicon carbide mortar mix I use in my microwave glass kilns. It allows microwaves in, but blocks their escape. Microwave kiln can also cook metal items such as precious metal clays and such without damaging the microwave. I buy both from Hi-Temp Refractory Co. in Fenton, Mo. You may want to talk directly to refractory suppliers and run your ideas past them. Hi-Temp is more than happy to assist and answer questions! Stan
  24. I still love mine as Curly George had told you all earlier. I do NOT have special gauges or regulators, just follow the Henrob install/use directions and all will be fine. I also weld, braze, and cut with regular A/O rigs, but the Henrob does same on a lot less gas use and material wastes so mine paid for itself fast! I do plan on buying the atmospheric tip real soon that needs NO oxygen during use; works similar to an atmospheric gasser and makes it similar to a jewelry torch for silver soldering and such. Stan
  25. I remove valves from a lot of old LP and Freon type tanks here by using a ratchet strap to bind tank securely at a tree base. Then use pipe wrench to remove valve, extra piece of pipe on wrench handle if needed. Stan
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