Charles R. Stevens

Frost, keeping beer liquid would seem to be the problem in your neck of the woods!

It is a beutiful knife. For my self perfection is relitive. Its ability to serve the perpose for wich it was built is more important to me. As a "bowei" type knife it looks like it firs that criteria as whell.

Then what are they using on the waterfront? PT dosnt work for marine aplications

No it hasn't i just placed 180 of the buggers in the ground. The law changed a few decades ago that clasified it as a "pestiside" and requires a pestiside aplicators license to apply, either in the feild or in the post treatment plant. If you use ground rated PT i would recomend leting it dry, as it is pumped full of water after it was kiln dried to meet "code" second i would rap the botom of the post from 6" above ground down to atleast 2 1/2 foot below with ruberised asphalt and plastic or equvilan ice barer. As despite a 20 year rating they usualy dont last 15. A lot of "new tech" (mostly anchient tech) has recieved code approval.

Tires dont need to be barried, they are 2 1/2' foundations in and of their selves. Think gambion basket. As I dont know the sight conditions, as to post and beam, i would be tempted to sorce creasot fence posts, if one cuts the 8' in half (at $15-18 a peice they are cheaper than 6x6 ground rated PT and last a lot longer, paced 2 1/2'in the ground they should be well below frost line and 18" above to keep the frammin dry. Like blacksmithing, despite opinians to the contrary there is no, one right way to build a safe durable structure. There usualy is one, economical sight aproriat method tho. I would seggest two things, google "low cost" and "alternitive" building methods as well as "log framing" "timber framing" "pole framinf" "whole tree" framing... Take a clue from walden, only flaten the sides of the timber that will have siding naile to it, and if its stait enugh, not even then!

True, but I have had it show up once or twice when I orderd A36 and they yard or their suplier where short. Dosnt hapen often, infact In 1/4" square I usualy end up with somthing harder.

If I was home I'd draw out a story board, hard to explane the steps with out wrighting a book, and with an Arizona/Okie accent and horable spelling I might not get the point accros anyway, lol.

Cheap dosnt mean wrong or shody in this case, if you use the materials wisely your good. You can use the poppelur as framing, or the palets for that matter. The pallets can be used as sheathing, tires full of compacted soil or gravel can be used as a foundation, say 2-3 high to get up above the wet. But one can use concreat peers ot groundrated fenceposts with PT sill plate framed above with popular. Again, you dont need store baught, kiln dried lumber to do it right. Just think like a raindrop and a turmite. Dry feet and a dry roof are number one, good sensible framing, round poles are acualy stronger that square of the same size. So just use the material you have smart.

Prayers and hugs, master frost.

As your mig tip is copper i would suggest sodder. Otherwise you risk melting the tip (brass melts at a lower temp and you can brase copper with brass but it is a nerro margin)

Use a fuller, or if you have the hammer controle use the rounded edge of your anvil and yourcross pein. You will do basicaly the same thing on the tand side but you either use a side set or fuller and moeky tool or a header.

A36 is not nessisaraly 1018, A36 is a structural specification for steel, it may be 1018 or something else, often it a n incosistant mix, some of it is butter soft, wile just a few inches over may be hard. If you are working on somthing that consistant forging is important (like making a demo you might consider sorcing 1018 as apposed to A36. But for most work A36 is carried at most any steel yard.

For practical perposes, its a wash as to wich is easyer. Depends on the stock on hand. The first step either way is to isulate the blade from the bolster. Then you either draw the blade down or upset the bolster, if you drow the blade use your cross pein (make shure it is dresed to the apropriate radius or you will suffer all kinds of dings. If you up set the bolster use the face, again properly dressed. Make sure you have a good heat reagardles. When you use the moenky tool to square up the shoulders for the tang will slightly upset the bolster. Take TP,s suggestion and use clay to work out the steps especialy playing with using fullers and set tools to isolate shoulders. Unless you are good at imagining how the steel moves. You might consider using automotive spring or mexican rebar (the stuff tends to be hard) to prototype as it is much harder to move than A36 or 1018. Be especialy carful with rebar as some of it will air harden

41, you might modify your stand to allow you to very the way you mount your anvil. With rail anvils, heavy forging is best done with rail oriented the other way, wile light work, especially needing a larger surface to flatten pieces work well the way you have. Also consider cutting away some of the flange to form a small double horned bick.

DSW, I'll hunt it down for you. As the rock wool in the old range is probbably done for, that would need replaced. Not sure about the thermistate, but i know retrofit valvels are avalabe for safty pilots (oven)

DSW has a point. This dosnt preclude using salvaged material, just think about how to use wha you have

If you are using A36, it may have a fair amoun of carbon (this is why some times its hard to drill)

I see "sheds" (leantoos) in your future, lol. Nice place for material storage.

I use high temp silicon (away from the heat an inch) as a flexible, heat resistant (500 deg or so) adhesive for ridged forge liners. Any kind of solid cement is going to crack with movement.

Not to forget there may already be pictures, or blueprints existing (tho finding them....) TP may have the right idea, the newspaper archives may be a beter bet. As more copies (the news paper and public and privat libraries) means that one broken pipe in a basment some where hasnt destroyed them all) careful, you may end up tranferd to maintinance, lol. Might want to forge replacements for thise nails, and give them to the warden ;-)

Often old refrigeraters (clamping door) can be had for little or nothing. Rewiring and retrofiting with spray in fome makes a buletproff (tho manualy defrosted) unit. There are a couple of companyes that acualy do so for folks that want the caracture of old fridges and ranges Often old refrigerates (clamping door) can be had for little or nothing. Rewiring and retrofitting with spray in foam makes a bulletproof (though manually defrosted) unit. There are a couple of company’s that actually do so for folks that want the character of old fridges and ranges [translation by bing]

Zylouge Just be carefull of the juristiction you are in. Some courts have taken the veiw that your sighn constitutes "premeditation" Not that I don't agree with the sentiment, or that I wouldn't vote to acquit, took me a bit of shopping to find an inurance company that would geive me home owners insurance because I have an ausstralian shepard (read that as will bite if you dont heed her warnings)

For charcoal, use a chimney. For coal make a small fire (or use charcoal and your chimney, lol) if you still resort to lighterfluid or a torch ask an old boyscout to show you how to light a fire....

Have to side against popular in ground. Stone, tires full of ramed earth, concreat block, good used railroad ties, etc. nothing to stop you from going preindustrial, lots of good smithing was done before Mr. Edisan, Tesla or Ford. With the right desighn you can move a lot of air threw your shop with out using fans, clearstory windows certanly can do that for you and would eliminate the need for clear roofpanels that are easaly damaged by hail and embers (wild land fire, lost a horse barn around hear to embers burning threw the skylights, wile the hay barn survived) As to the chainsaw mill, insructibles has a detailed build for one, and the Alaskan department of ed teaches how to modify the chains for ripping. Its in their online coriculam (yea the belive in teching kids how to servive) but I bet Frosty or another of the polorbears can help you find it. Basicaly you file down the rakers a bit, and use a mis sized file (i think oversised) to change the tooth angle to get a bigger bight, as you are ripping not cross cuting

My prayes givin for his frinds and famaly. May they find confort in their loss by selibrating his life