Charles R. Stevens

As iron mike said, keeps your idiot cusions on this side of the pond from sticking their free hand in between the dies. Remember we are the peaple that have to have warning labels to explane that coffee is hot (we serve tea cold around here) and it should not be placed between ones legs wile driving. ;-)

One thing that seams to often be forgoten is that you are going to end up softning the existing plate, so plan on heat treating the anvil.

One would imagine 80% or so. Rebound has to do both with hardness and solididty. Soft faces and voids (losse plates and parimiter welds reduce your rebound. Voids, material, mounting and shape efect ring

Hard for me to really tell from the picture (I phone, lol) but is the pan twisted or just tweaked curved along its length? If its along its length try stretching the sides. To be honest a round in a self cleaning oven might reduce the stresses enough,

The simplest way is to reheat the pan and flaten it, in cold work you would identify where it needs srunk or streched to make it flat. Might take a couple of cycles

I Imagine not. I can only hope that you and her fammaly celibrate her life. She was sent here for a reason, and in her early demise she is intended to teach all of you one more leason. Relize that it isn't the deceased we feel sorry for but ourselves. Be there for your friends, but celibrate her life and memeory. I hope that my friends and fammaly have the good sense to have a New orliens funeral and and Irish wake. I belive i can safely say that our continued prayers are with you

This is my go to girl, It is carbon steel, beveled to a knife edge on one side. The edge is hard, as i carles ly chiped it taping it on the griddle. It belonged to a friend of mine that was a WWII and Karean war cook. I have used hand saw blades to make spatulas, especialy the cheap "toolbox" saws like the "shark tooth" and heattreated them much like a knife blade. (I do one of those saws in about once a year, and at the price I dont resharpen them)

I would agree with bolting. Take extrordinary care in flashing and make certain you bolt to either the header or uprights, not the skin of the existing building. As to structural size, shape, weight and spacing dictate size of members. Typicaly what looks good is significantly overbuilt for steel (if your used to looking at wood or stone) what steel profiles are avalable to you and what is esteticaly pleasing? 14.75m would be closer to 48'

A pictur or 10 would be useful. Might not be a case yes/no but food for thought on how. Open inpection door and open fill door go a long way for ventilation. If the are close enugh to gether you may be able to shed between two or more. I find my self strung out with wood working, leatherworking, sewing and metal work areas. Would be nice to have all those work areas clusterd together

I wander if it isnt a srinker in and of its self, tho I can certainly see how it could be used to true a tire. The other thing that comes to mind is in the making of break assemblyes and wheel chocks for desending steep grades.

Join your local volantear fire department, lol

Looks like you will have to finish it up with some walls, lol. But It looks good. Around here every time a storm cumes up a bunch o palisade fences go down (non contact rated 4x4s) you may be able to score the panels free of of creags list, gives you 6' 1x4" wall boards. If you want weather risistant and ventilation alternate the boards.

As long as you have mains power (alost said 110, then i rememberd that you could be 220 or something else, lol) some were on here is a nice setup using a #10 can, a small soup can and the blower from a car (might not need the cans if its a self cantained blower) this gives you a set up that works any where you have a car.

Ronnin, at least us old timmers aren't effected by PTSD the same ways the youngin's are.

He certainly isnt afraid to use the tools he has, lol

I just have a predudice against the noise, lol I pulled up all the carpet. I would rather sweep and mop.

Agread, TP. Sadley they probbably carry Rigid tools and aren't even aware that they can order a real anvil for a customer.

Oh, now that hammer would get even my neibors to complain!

Not to mention a bit larger footprint under the roof. You can catelever out 1/2 the widthe of the structure with the aproriatly sized lumber. If you are thinking of adding a second shed to the front in the futer consider a clearstory, by covering the front, top 4' of the building. This will let you have light and ventilation if you sorce used windows.

Sarcasm is lost on the younger generation, takes a bit of imagination and freethinking that sadly are edducation system has discoraged cince the late 60's

Bet Steve is cringing as you type, lol. Realy i dont care for the noise, a budy runs his forge of a bathromm vent fan and loves it. And I can atest that some of the more expensive ones are very quiet, as is a drier blower. A haidryer or inflater works well for a small forge, and at $10-15 most folks can score that. Driers have alkinds of salvage and can often be found free on cregs list with nothing more than a bad itgniter or warn seals

The die size and the knife size would dictate wether you can taper your die both ways from the center. I do belive I have seen stormcow's vidoe. If i remenber righ his die se is substasualy radiused on the high side, alowinf him to use it as a drawing die, wile alowing him to also forge tapers, not just knives, but punches, chisels and axes with out changing dies.

Vacuums are way to noisey for me, there are other things I'd use instead. Hair driers, air mattress inflaters, the blower from a clothes drier (probably the quietest) bathroom vent fan...

There are tapering dies, i have also seen combination drawing and talering dies. A shallow tapering die might work

As long as my hugs are conveayed as well