Charles R. Stevens

To right NJ. I carried a bic pen and a paperback book. This nerd surprised more than on jerk that way, lol

Your local tractor repair, or AG supply. Doesn't have to be liquid. Its usually sold as sidewalk deicer. The space heater is really the best sounding idea to me, not a big fan of dumping chemicals on the ground. What is considered safe to day has a nasty habit of bitting our great grandchildren square in the butt.

I believe one of the outlets on a computer power supply is regulated 12v wile the others are 5v that gives you two fan speeds. Old PC cases are easy to score in most places. Mike, mine run away from the hot wire too, but the run tord cookies even faster! And people wonder wonder I like bellows... 21century be xxxxxx!

Glenn has to pay to keep IFI up and running, and doesn't receive any revenue from "free advertising" from linking to commercial sights. Even tho its primarily to prevent abuse from folks trying to do just that, to be fair the ban seems to be applied all. As to the "payed advertising" Glenn isn't getting rich there either, but it dose defray some of his costs.

You can use the wire, but dont plug it into you wall plug! All the electric stuff runs on smoke. They put the smoke in at the factory and if you let it out it wont work so more! Sorry bad joke, and I know jokes dont translate well. Ac (alternating curent) and Dc (direct curent are bery different animals. Ac is what the wall outlet has and Dc is what your car has. So a fan ou of a car needs 12v Dc, a car batery is acualy 13.5volts, so any combination of bateries in series that will make 12.5-14.5 will work. As will plugging it into the cigarette lighter of a car or truck.

Idealy the repair should be as good or better than the original. Anything less is, well less. Lol. Most often you are recomended to preheat toolsteel (highcarbon) before welding, this reduces localized hardening, as well as microfractur (and macro fracture for that matter) surounding th weld zone. It also increases weld penitration as the material is already 20% of the way to melting temp. The problem ofcorse is that 500 f reduces the hardness of the original plate.

You have the fan, motor and duct in one assembly, when you removed the fam motor from the vaccume you removed the duct work from the fam and motor. This is a "plug and play" setup, lol

Once you have sorted out witch is high speed and wich is ground, a reostat is easy to install, a houshold dimmer will work. As will a house hold lightswitch. This is DC, it isnt as prone to arc like Ac. 12v dc is relitively safe to work with, as 30 amp at 12 v wont kill you, but it still can cause a fire so fuse protection is a must.

DD, all that you say is true, but also we see quality suffering as well. Look at a new castiron skillet. They are 1/2 again of moor thicker than those of 75 years ago. I just traded my mother back her uncle Hennery's skillet for a new lodge becuse it is lighter (thinner) now you cant throw an old one in the fire, as they ae prone to warp, but the ladies apretiate them. This is part of the reason (i belive) lodge has begine marcketing stamped steel pans, as was the "camping" standard for years.

I didn't say edge welded I said "fully welded", MT. Its a pain in the butt, but it certainly saves on rod. The problem is that it takes a lot of veyr expensive rod to build up a 1" plate, not so bad for 1/4-1/2", but the thick top anvils can get pricey fast, just in rod. Yes it has been gone over, and it will again, everytime there is an anvil that needs repaired.

Failing that, most libraries have chilten or motors manuals for the diy car repair. Kind of hard to tell just by looking. Might also try to google your make model and year, wiring diagram or wiring schematic. Nice thing is they are designed to be regulated for lower air speeds, one can use a rheostat or the appropriate multi step switch. I like to use a "dead mans switch" on electric blowers. The old on the floor starter switches work well (look like head light dimmer switches but they are momentary switches) Your switches will live longer if they are on the negligible side of the circuit as there will be lees arcing

Ammonia certainly rats up pen nibs.

No suggesting it was, lol just that Id like to try duplicating them in alluminum bronze. I aggre that it is impressive, not only that they have survived, but that they havent been recycled as well. Again, thank you for sharing them.

A peice of sliding barn dore rail mounted to the celing between the two, one doore trolley is rated for over 300#

Thank you. Estimating seems like vodo to me. Its not like You have a chilton or motors labor manual. Lol. But your thoughts, buisness like maner and honor (mor than just ethics) is always food for thought.

Thank you for sharing them. If i didnt have a 100 other "I wana"s i would love to experiment with alluminum bronze.

I do enjoy your perspective, I hope your appretiated in your work

In the US they would have already pulled down the pubb and built a stripmall (that would now be defunct and be only a third full of cheesy little shops, the castle would still be standing (more or less) because it's to much work to tear down. Easyer to pave over farm land.

Indeed interesting. At first i thought the firt on had seen heavy use on one horn, but the second shot shows that it was intentinaly dished. Love the flux/sugar spoon indention The second looks to have been modified by grinding a dish next to the laddle form I can see alkinds of uses, for some one doing field work and demoes away from there main shop.

I was going to tecomend ammonia myself, as I know from experiance it will eat a brass nib up in a hart eat. Isnt it sulferic acid that tarnises it in the realworld? (Acid rain)

Kind of hard to justify beutiful hand worked steel on a building that isnt intented to last more than 20 years. We are a disposible society.

And building up 1/2-1" over half the anvil? I would think fully welding a shaped peice of tool steel over the back half, welding the two to gether and heat treating might very well be more economical. Tool steel costs less than high end rod.

Depending on the size they retail for $23-35

That, mad wing ins why I use $20 "tool box saws" like the sharktooth. After Ive tried to cut a few nails they arnt worth sharpening, lol. Wile an antique deserves to be sharpend and used untile there just aint enything left

When you say "deeply V'd" did you get a full penitration weld, or just a good strong one?