Charles R. Stevens

Na, your just to lazy to do the job a second time

The rest of the cuntry call them trees, allaskins call it grass ;-) You did well in your search, I imagine she has done well herself. I hope i have done so well, but I got two wonderful daughters (step) and a granddaughter from the first, so I'm not disipointed. Tho Now I can appreciate the new woman in my life. Fool woman teared up on me when i fixed he breakfast, handed her her lunch and gave her a kiss this morning. Been doing it for a month and a half now, lol Find a good woman, treat her like a Queen. If she doest treat you like a King, you didnt pick a good one, leason learned.

Jerry, any woman that will put up with the likes of you and I is a good woman by any ones account.

I was always told it was in the rue, TP but indeed the file dose seem to keep the nasties at bay

Always said, if you want to get a job done right the first time, find a truly lazy man to do it!

Yes, TP thinking faster than I can type. Make that, "pounding on the vice", lol

The floating thread box also keeps forces from pounding on the anvil from being transferred to the treads

Beat me to it, TP. I actually have a Chinese saw, that exept for the wing nut to tension as opposed to a tap on the spine to tighten, looks remarkably like the mystermer saw frame. Might consider using a mechanical hacksaw blade with the paint striped off, as its 1" wide, as opposed to 1/2" so it wont be so glaringly obvious as to what it is, also look into hand vises as they are period as well.

That and often the banner ads look at what cookies are on your computer. Don't like adds for Adult dating sights? Might consider wether your visiting dating sights or adult entertainment sights. So who has been googling barbie dolls on your computer? I get a lot of steel and welding adds when I go to other sights, lol. Kind of strange when your looking for a good gumbo recipe.

Might " i ask about wear surfaces and lubrication? I imagine beeswax and lard aren't on the agenda, lol. Seams one would have a full time job lubricating and maintaining that wonderful piece of engineering

And not to forget the fancy folding/breakdown furniture for our mobile generation, such a new and novel concept... Except that folding and breakdown furniture has a long, long history. Trestle tables, breakdown beds, chairs, desks... And all the high tech moisture wicking, antimicrobrial, yada, yada fabrics... Recent tests in Europe, with athletes found wool beat the "performance" fabrics. Kept the athletes cooler, doesn't support bacterial growth (funky smell and heat rash). In fact Vinteal competes very faberably with gortex, infact this all cotton, WWII fabric is still used in british exposure suits and antarctic tents. As to steel beams, the ends have to be angled in masonry construction to keep them from pulling the walls in during a fire, 2xstock on edge used as fire ristant wear house flooring

There were a few years there that the "new" machine tools could't duplicate the tolerances that the old timers worked to. Glad to see that things are turning around. Not saying that Im a fan of hydronic floors, just pointing out the fact that its pre roman tech. Did you know that the electric trash truck replaced the horse drown dray in the cities on the east coast? Ive actually ridden in a 1890's aluminum bodied electric car... How about multiple coil packs on a modle A? (Got bit by one, and I had already been working with DIS)

To easy, Frosty

Just your turn, I image she had a great time wile you lounged around after murdering that poor defenseless tree

Dont recoment a game of Dune either Dodge. Below are relics of a misspent youth, Syks/Applegate training knives, 30 years old. Many an hour dressed in black with the edgese of the rubber knives chalked. Saved my butt a couple of times over seas, Europe is much more violent than the US.

Castles, even build right didnt survive cannon. As to old tech, rammed earth, adobe, cob, earthsheltering, green rooves, balloon framing (now called "advanced framing") electric cars, solor water heating, hydronic heated floores...

As I assume you are using two rivits, migh i sugjest an alluminum poprivit in one hole, rivit the other , kniick out the pop and rivit the other. Some times on thin stock you can go down a letter size on the drill and bevel the tip of the rivit, driving it true with your monky tool, not unlike a copper rivit asn washer

Its a bit of a pain as its best to have the factory head on the inside of the bowl. I use an old trailer ball. The other thing, don't use to big of a hammer a smaller hammer wont try to upset the whole privit as much as just the head.

Nice serviceble tool/weapon. Not a fan of anything but oil on my tool handles, so no stain is a goot thing.

As Tommas points out, the posts are the foundation, but if you dont have posts that will reach the roof, or not enugh, 4' posts will get you up where you can either frame up a wall or splice non rot resistant poles to the rot resistant ones. Like TP I like shed roofs, and if your building a pole barn or post and beam structure you will naturaly build in bents or bays. One shed with a high ceiling facing south and a shoertr one against it gives you a clearstory to light and ventelate the shop, will building two seperated by a space as TP suggested ( this is a "two crib" in the local vanacular, face them so the prevaling sumer brease comes in between them and cap, again with clearstory windows to provide light and ventilation) this gives you an old school barn. As to pole spacing, 6x posts are good at 12" this alows a 2x4 (on edge) or 3x3 to span the roof on 4' centers as a perling and a 2x12 or a 8x8 span from post to post over a 12" bay. 4x4 on 8' with 6x6 rafters work as well, 2x layed flat will span this space on 24" as perlings. Perlings assume a meatal roof, 1/2 the spacing for shingles, if you get crazy and sod the roof, increase bent size and perling size by 50% or reduce spacing by 1/3 to acomidate an extra 100# per square foot.

Not to hijack your thread, but as this will be a "historic" document as are all posts on IFI, lets recap. You are desighning a shop around salvaged and harvested materials, and we have been consintrating our curent descusian on the foundation, wich must resist water and hold up the rest of the building for atleast 20 (idealy more) years. The use of 6x6 inground rated posts or poles has been sugjested, this is a proven and code compliant method. We are curently exploring other methods. As you apear to have plenty of small to medium sized timber I have been consintrating my sugjestions on materials that would provide a foundation from 30" below grade to 16" above grade, that is structuraly sound, as well as termight and moisture resistant that should provide 50+ years of service. The foundation is the first, most imprtant step in building a good shop.

With utility poles there are 3 types, creasote, phenolic and Preshure treated. Creasote will look like chochlate, phenolic look dirty blond, with a tar coting on the bottom 6' and will have wood plus where the drilled to put presevitive inside and of corse pt looks greenish to grey. Solid creasot will last , wile phenolic may not. I would plan on using either ice block or roofing tar and plastic on the poles. Not nessisary on new creasot, but a good idea on the others. Oviusly steel is an opion, 2" or larger pipe, 3"+ chanel, 4"+ angle, I beam (mobile home frame?) old truck axles etc. steel will need to be painted with a good paint, tarred and raped unless it is green coated gas pipe. If sand and gravel are a a avalable to you on sight making cement on sight is not bad, use a sono tube, or some kind of form (i have used old stove pipe and thin wall sanitary pipe) a bit of rebar (or an old t post) are options Some of your local woods may be rot resistant as well, some oaks last 20 years (as good as pt) bodark, some cedar, red wood, cyperus... Chestnut was the gold standard there but alas they are extinct

I think Vaugn has a great idea with diferent radiuses on diferent sides

Placing concreat in the bottom of the hole provides suport for the post resisting the lode placed on it a 12" whole with 4-6" of cement in the bottom suports more than a 6" timber in the ground, placing cement in the hole around the post isnt all that good unless you are paying labor and it is certainly cheaper than tamping the soil back in the hole to 90 percent (some times code calles for things that arnt all that necisary) some special need may lead you to needing cement arounf the post, but if that is the case, I would use precast peirs or sonotubes and cast in place. So with 20" frost line you need to get below that, there are several ways, cement is relitively expesive and has a prety big carbon footprint, i you are using a treated post a large flat rock in the bottom will spread the load, or if you are willing to spend your time and sweat you can trench down two feet and fill it with gravel, building a wall above that. Gambion baskets full of stone, tires full of gravel, wet or dry fit stone etc. realy depends on what your ethetic is. Most of the old houses and barns in you neck of the woods where just set on a couple of flat stones at each corner (keeps water from crawling up the rock) but we want somthing a bit beter here, lol. In this case, i would love a stone foundation but that is a bunch of work, so we need to look at somthing else what do you want to use?

If your interested in cleaving, a kukkrie or an axe is a lot more handy, slashing and stabing are a knifes fortay, the balance being back makes the knive feel faster, a nerow point aids in penitration (but I routinely "stab" pigs with an old school skinner) wile a curve aids in the cuting action of a slash. Most people are confortable "pointing" a knife. So typicaly if you can imagine holding the knife like forging hammer and "pointing" your thumb at your target. So the tip being close to the spine works well. This dosnt precluse other grips that certainly have thier place, over hand, underhand, blade forward, blade back etc. In a knife fight slashing your opponents hands and forarms are #1, if you can disarm or intagle then a stab might be in order, but often because of grip slashes at the forhead , abdomen, joints or areas wear major vesels are at the serface. Typicaly stabing is best used agaist unarmed aponents, as trying for a killing stroke exposes you to counterattack. If you try to stab me, i'm either going to do one of Three things, sidestep/retreat, block/lock or close. All of theis moves will be falowed by a counter attack. Slashing the ligaments in the back or your hand or rist will end a knife fight faster than stabbing you in the belly. In the end, I have a very spacific definition of a "fighter" as a knife optimised for the taking of another persons life in either a heads to head conflict or from ambush or as a defensive tool to discorage some one from doing the same to me. Not a knarly looking wall hanger. The knife you present realy only concernes me with the finger notch making more confortable in on or two grips. But as I cant hold it I might be wrong. Otherwise it is well desighned, executed and finised. I even belive lithile.