• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by DClaville

  1. hehe thanks Sam her name is Heidi B) so the next chapter In the two weeks I was running the hammer testing it and playing around I soon got tired of having to remove forge scale of the dies and when I get spring swages and other tools the problem will only worsen, so inspired by videos of industrial forging I was thinking about doing something where I could blow air on the bottom die I looked and finally found a air switch I could use for free made some changes to my air lines in the shop and ran some 6mm air hose and bend a bit of 6mm copper pipe and away I was here is a little video of the test blow? I was very unsure of the placement of the switch but decided to just try it out there but already now I am thinking about moving it so i can use it with my right foot so i dont have to make a half step while I am using the hammer if I want to blow the dies clean. have meanwhile also got a real foot switch that I will use next was an idea I got from Owen bush who have a 2CWT Alldays & Onions to build in a ball valve on the compressor piston that can be opened to ease starting the hammer and also might be used to fine tuning the hammer for light blows but haven't played around much with it since I build it in I took off the top plate for the piston and drilled and tapped for 1/2" pipe tread I chose the top plate as I wanted to be sure not to have the hole where the ram touches the inside bore It was a easy addition to make only hard part was lifting the top plate most have been about 30kg. and getting it up over the bolts and all while on a folding ladder almost feel down with it :unsure: haha next was fabricating a chain guard that will also shield off the motors openings from forge scale and grinding dust I am using 2mm steel plate as that is the thinnest we had loads of at work it is also much easier to get a strong structure started bending the top plate by hand in place making two fastening points as a start as well then one side plate then made a slot for the axle and cut out a section that will be folded down where it goes from wide to slimmer around the big chain wheel and that is how it looks right now middle November 2012 Will finish it tomorrow some other things I plan to make is the before mentioned bracket to hold the start/stop switch, a treadle safety bar and the modification of the scale-blaster if you have ideas of things you think I am missing please let me know
  2. Right about now Mr NJ Anvil ;) after the resin had cured I bolted it down with big washers + locking washers and nuts then it was time for the treadle build, after reading on here and watching pictures I was pretty sure what I needed in a good treadle, one that was close to the ground so I would be able to use it with both heels on the floor and it be so comfortable that I can use it hours on end with out hurting my legs I got some 30x60x5mm L angle iron I laid down to a angle of about the same as the gas pedal in my car. here are a few pictures of it and also build in a turn buckle so I can adjust the hight of the treadle as needed then it was time for the exhaust these hammer are very very loud with the air in/out and it come out just behind the ram so its blowing oily air right out to the operator not so good but health and safety was not a big deal back when these hammers was made. the idea to make the exhaust I got from UK master pattern welder Mick Maxen who also have a Pilkington airhammer I Cold forged :ph34r: a 3mm plate to fit over the air hole behind the ram and drilled and taped a few holes for bolts in that plate I made a hole to weld in a 90° bend for Ø88,9mm pipe (we use a lot of this size pipe at work and had plenty in offcuts) on that I welded another 90° bend and a pipe to go out the hole in the wall (the hole will be closed up with a wooden plate when all is done) also put in a pipe assembler?? or what they are called On the back compressor piston there is a oneway valve for exsses air Fabricated a new cover it a 50mm pipe stud on it and also drilled and welded on a stud onto the main exhaust pipe the hose is some oil resistant hose for some farm machinery we sell at work the back end on the exhaust also has a 90° bend on it that points down so air and oil shoots downwards into a bucket I am pleased with how this exhaust ended up then I got a new chain for it as the old one had been stretched and was therefore a bad fit and I build a chain tightener to get more teeth in contact with the chain on the motors chain wheel hoping I can keep this chain from stretching too much A few notes about the placement of the motor. the room I have for the workshop is very narrow and really small TBH but it is great for me and all I can get atm. the hight to the celling was also very low too low for really swinging a hammer so I lowered the floor about 30cm(12") insulated and cast a new floor but I only did that in the forge "room" part of the shop making a step right next to where the hammer sits. to save floor space I mounted the motor on the higher floor level on there it can be under a table for a machine or what ever and be out of the way, I am really happy with this idea. next was the electrical stuff I didn't do that by my self got a friend helping with wiring the entire shop I mounted the start/stop box with kill switch right on one of the bolts the holds the front rams top plate and that was a big mistake!! as I then tested the hammer the vibration made the switch click and stop the hammer atm its just hanging in the wires. and I am thinking about two ways of mounting it 1: same placement but with a rubber cushion build in but am thinking it will get bouncy 2: fabricating some square pipe to go down from the wooden celling beam just above the hammer to hold the switch atm I am most in favour of the 2nd option almost forgot to post some videos here is the hammer at this point in the story at this point I am so happy that I almost felt dissy :wub: we are now at middle October 2012 only a few things till we are up-to-date next is a scale blaster as some might see in my other youtube videos hope to get time to write more this evening (Danish time)
  3. Hi y'all I am going to tell a story about me and my powerhammer and it is a story that has been going for a few years but it isn't nearly started yet ;) I will try to give as much info about the very hammer as I can as i find that there is very little info about this make on the internet. also about how I set it up and why I did it the way I have done If there is any Questions feel free to ask As some of you know I purchased a Powerhammer about 2 years ago. I got a great opportunity to buy a lovely old airhammer a Pilkington 1 CWT hammer a hammer bigger then i had first planed to get. I was at that time looking to get a 25kg(55) Anyang airhammer The deal I got was from a cool company in the UK Massy forging limited (John N) the hammer got a good overhaul from some Pros and was then shipped to Denmark the hammer before it got anything done to it as it was when I visited to try it out when I was over there to try it out I also shot this video when I got the hammer home it looked like this I was still not ready for it so for about 1,5 years it's been sitting in the barn waiting... while I worked on getting the workshop ready. first thing I did my self on the hammer was cutting the wooden blocks to fit better and then make a strong steel band around them they are 6x6" pinewood or such then the base was up I made a wooden insert the same size as the foundation was going to be but 15mm bigger all around. Then cast the floor around the wooden "form" then removed the wooden "form" and dug the hole out and stomped the ground below and put it 15mm Styrofoam and as the hammer was very low I made a steel ring from 10x100mm barstock the shape I wanted the foundation then levelled that out and welded in a little bit of reinforcement (used what I could get free) then filled her up the cement is approx 750x650x1200mm then last winter(2011) I was then finally ready to move the hammer in onto its foundation, had to make a big hole in the wall directly behind where the hammer was going and then roll it in as there was no way I could lift it in place. the whole hammer weighs about 2 Tons but even so it was very easy to roll it in I used 3/4" and 5/4" water pipe to roll it on as there was a hight difference and also laid strips of 3mm steel plate to roll an to there was a even surface for the pipe we was 3 people doing it and did it slowly and controlled but it still only took about 1 hour when the hammer finally was in place I was happy like a child in a free candy store. here you see the 2mm rubber plate between the wood and cement I then drilled 4, Ø32mm holes 500mm into the cement and resin bonded in M27 8,8 whole tread bar got some stuff that was vibration resistant at least that's what the seller said :) Next is the treadle but I got to go now (making chain guard) ATM. at this point in the story we are around April 2012
  4. great stuff! thanks for sharing
  5. That is a great bueaty you got there Owen :) congrats must be a joy to forge on would love to have a really big one like that but maybe a 300kg one is coming my way "fingers crossed"
  6. That sounds and looks great shame your stopping with the small machines mate. But good its going well with the big stuff :)
  7. the way i have been told to make spring swages it you forge the blocks then drill a hole 18mm in each and then take a 16mm round bar and upset one end to 18,5mm on the diagonal square, but only upset a length that is about half the depth of the holes you drilled then heat up the block and hammer the cold rod in and then take a large center punch and punch all around the hole with the bar in it. the measurements are figurative and should be adapted to the size of the tools. this should hold many time longer then any weld. here is a photo that shows it done https://fbcdn-sphoto...7_5289629_n.jpg Photo is borrowed from Roger Lund, Sweden
  8. Yes Owen after looking at my valve and lots of turning the hammer by hand i also decided that it is only air out on mine at its that way at least i made a cover with a 2" pipe end on it and will run a hose down to the big pipe coming from the main air in/out in front and will run the pipe out the wall and down half way into a bucket Thanks for all this info Alan yes green is a lovely color http://s239.photobucket.com/albums/ff59/DClaville/Pilkington%20no%201%20powerhamer/
  9. Alan must say you have an amazing workshop! green with envy... :) i like how you have modified the exhaust for the 1CWT its more "out of the way" then the way I made mine (i have a 1CWT Pilkington) i am interested in if your newer but almost same hammer, also have a exhaust for excess air on the back piston and if you have done anything to it Cheers Dan,
  10. Thanks I got it from a local counts mansions farm forge shop I got to clear out as they needed the space.I don't know how old it is but thinking abot 80 or so years but no one knows.. the only markings on it is PATENT
  11. thanks for your nice comments :) the gaps in the corners i made on purpose so to be able to sweep out dust when needed and they are only 10mm wide the two gaps on the side that will be placed against the wall will be welded up the firepot is not very deep and the sides are 35mm high so the top of them will be abut the hight where the sweetspot in the fire will be for most of the size work ill be doing in it i still need some more features build on it but this was as far as i could get with the very limited time we hard for the project one thing i really need is rubber feet on threaded bar so i can level it on my floor, and will lasercut and CNC-bend a box for ashes and clinkers to go under the ash-dump any other ideas of what i should build in on it would be very appreciated :)
  12. as a project for y education i had to design and build a project, the only requirement was that it had to be a 3-point-linkage but since i don't need any thing that hangs behind a tractor, and needed to make a new solid fuel forge. i ended up making a forge that was bolted onto a 3-point-linkage :) its not all finished need to make a few more additions but here is a few photos the firepot is a old cast-iron on the top plate(6mm) and the shelf(3mm) was lasercut the frame is 50x50x6mm angle iron
  13. yes its funny you say that all the leg vises i have seen over here are like these ones never seen one, like the ones you got over there in the US without the large plates
  14. Thanks just what i needed to hear it will be a portable stand for moving to the middle of the floor right next to my main anvil when needed have two steel pipes cast in the floor so will make holes in the base plate for the vise stand to drop in some 3/4" pipe to keep it from moving when in use I plan to make the stand with a 60x60cm 10mm thick steel plate base plate and the post will be 20x10cm 10mm thick wall Sq tubing (filled with sand) and a 40x22cm 10mm thick steel plate as a table top will put on two small wheels that's offset a bit from the ground so when I tilt the stand over a bit I can roll it around. here is two photos of the vises the one thats taken apart is the big one I'm making this stand for have given it a spray down with rust-penetrator and will attack with it a powered wirebrush tomorrow. the small on 4"jaw is new! it has never clamped any thing in the jaws only has rust and dust on it. I got it from my fathers old friend who remembers buying it many years ago when its was normal to use leg vises, but he never got round to mounting it so it has been standing in a corner for 60+ years that one i will mount to a heavy work bench for finer work and filing Cheers Daniel
  15. Hello all Im building a leg vise stand for a big 6inch jaw vise i have I have been thinking of how to mount it, and have a question, does the leg need to be free standing from the post(in my case heavy rectangular tubing) ? or would I be fine bolting the leg of the vise into the post? or would that harm the function of the leg to transfer vibration downwards the reason why I would like to bolt it into the side of the post is to not have the normal mounting bracket that bolts down on top of the post as I would like as much space as possible there for a small table will get some photos uploaded later as we all like photos right Cheers Daniel.
  16. since trying autodesk inventor out a few years back i will never go back to autocad its so much easier when you can turn and look at the parts in 3D but i would really like to learn to draw by hand, will look into the books mentioned here...
  17. buy it fast or ill have to hook on my trailer and go for a long drive!! :D
  18. I have for some time now been thinking of making a gear shifter nob from pattern-welded steel for my car, but puzzled if I should try to get the numbers shown in the pattern its not a problem remembering where each gear is for me, but if some one els should drive it they sorta need to know whats rear-drive and 1,2,3,4,5
  19. I think its about finding out what you really enjoy making if it makes you happy doing it it wil show in the work and one might also have an easier time wanting to improve ones niche ofcourse that only works if you have tried most things out,
  20. Thanks for posting this i have for some time been thinking about trying a ribbon burner at some point and now i have had some answers to my thoughts keep up the good work
  21. some advice i have that may be of help I am 22years old and have been forging for 6 years or there about. get your self set up so you can work thats what counts so you can start making things that you can show people who might take you in. and use youtube.com it is very learning to watch other smiths work then think of why they did what they did and try it out and see if it works for you or not. and yes this forum is very sharing as well use the search function on here and dig in the old threads lots of knowhow there. and books are also good some old ones can be found on the internet as the copyright is expired. and as mentioned go and meet with as many smiths as you can and if you find some smiths close to you ask nicely if you can come just watch them work and mostly they will tell a-bit of why and how they do what they do you say you want a gas forge thats fine its easy and clean but if you want to get a apprenticeship then you will need to know about maintaing a coal/coke fire so thats where this site and other smiths you can see doing it comes handy and step close to the anvil use a lightish hammer and fast blows, dont bent in your back and you should be fine goodluck with it mate it will not always seem fun but keep at it in the sour times all the best DC
  22. looks very usable indded private if you click on your own link and then in the URL box on the right one of the small boxes says IMG code if you copy/paste the URL in that one, the photo will show. it has on both end of the URL :)
  23. I still have to wait a few years to be able to grow something that can be called a proper beard but when i get older i will defiantly have a full beard
  24. no names just what pattern then are and weight I have the weight burned or stamped on all of them ohh and the geenies / cold ones are hammers with green paint on the handles they are for cold stuff and no one should use a non green hammer on something cold or a beating is coming.