DClaville

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Everything posted by DClaville

  1. if its a anvil you want to have movable/drag-able then i would recommend say a metal tripod have used a few at others workshops and like em will be making one for my 2nd. anvil if you can dig it down into the ground then a wooden one, log sawed square or made from 4x4s or similar i find a round one tents to make it hard to get in close to the anvil, but make sure if you use wood that its on end grain and you don't have anything sandwiched that will take up force when working
  2. this is my Anvil stand in my "in-the-making" workshop it is pressure-treated 4x4's glued and screwed together it is 1,2meters tall, it has for a year soaked in waste oil + anti-fungal stuff mix it is digged into the ground and cemented in, then the floor was cast around it with 15mm styrofoam around it so its not in direct contact with the floor. then I did something that probably makes some of you want to bash my head in I DRILLED 4 14mm holes one in each of the feet on my anvil it cant get more securely fastened then that.. then with a 3mm layer of polymer caulking on the base I bolted it down with long 14mm lag-bolts on one side i bolted down a 20mm thick steel plate for upsetting but might replace it if i find something thicker it gives next to no ringing and has about 75% rebound the anvil is a old 142KG WI body steel-faced from year 1905 here is a few pics i have a smaller anvil i will make a metal tripod for so I have one that i can move around when needed cheers
  3. it is very importent for the use that the blade is very smooth on the back side and a tiny tiny bit convex
  4. looks really unhandy with the way too long horn useless for that price hehe..
  5. grind it to the size and shape you want and make a whole new set of hardy tools sounds like they have slacked off when finishing the anvil back then..
  6. who ever says or thinks that they can not get better /improve then they are lost and wrong, we can always get better tomorrow and should stive for it or we should stop doing what we are doing
  7. there is one and only one answer to that question.. when you dont ask it no more, thats when remember be honest to your self and do all the home work (read up and look and feel some real swords) and remember that HT is one of the most important things. my first sword was a real ugly one but i used a steel i knew and have done some testing on HT on and i sharpened it up put on all sorts of safety gear and then took on a 4 inch dia. ash tree and down it went after lots of insane swinging (i dont recommend this to any one) and my edge was dulled a bit but not rolled or chipped in any place. now i know that one of my blades wont break from normal use and hurt any one play safe.
  8. http://forums.dfoggknives.com/index.php?showtopic=17953&st=0 there you go :)
  9. also a big thick plate like a 12" x 12" 1" thick plate welded on top of a I-beam going into the ground and the plate flat with the floor for upsetting long bar stock on and also for welding what ever onto to hold things
  10. those look really nice Dave i love the candle holder especially, but al of it is very nice. thanks for showing I dont really do much drawing just sorta work it out when working or just imaginative drawings in my head to work from, would really like to be able to draw tho :-/
  11. just build a steel box or wood should work as well, in the basement under where you want the hammer to be and then cut the floor out and and fill her up then put the hammer on top that should do it. :D
  12. just get it very very hot with out burning it and let it soak the heat to get surface melting temp under the borax in the middle of the billet if thats what you want to weld?. and use lots of borax as a flux on it and hit it lots of times all over but with very light blows lighter then you think at least speed is key, try it for a whole weekend and if your forge is hot enough you will never need someone to tech you this. but what you can use it for depending what you want to do, thats where it gets nice having some one to learn from :)
  13. this is how i did mine a few years ago http://www.britishblades.com/forums/showthread.php?78415-Guillotine-tool-quot-how-to-quot
  14. Jim to me you are famous exactly because of the things you put down above i have never met you, but hope one day i will, but read your books and what you post online and what is admirable and really shinning thru, is you pasion for the craft and your will to share to others. something a lot could learn from. thanks for all. ps cant wait for the 4th book all the best Daniel how could i forget. the Tachi is really stunning thanks for showing
  15. that looks really good cant wait to see the video of it runnings how do you oil or grease the two piston arms or is the bushings oil bronze or such ?
  16. OWEN! what about the 300 then?? hehe that is a lovely looking hammer tho, the big sis to my hammer its got great curves dont it ? congrats on it mate are you gonna keep it gear driven ? might be noisy? before you install it you should to a picture with it next to the 300 with out the tarp just as a fun to have pic ohh and in general just more photos of the hammer you know we love looking at them nearly as much as you to at the real thing
  17. Try tailgating mate http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/16-tailgating/
  18. looks like a very nice hammer show more when you get on with it :)
  19. thanks for posting, it was nice to watch again some skilled workers in that forge i'd give a lot for a lesson from any of them if my german wassent so rusty hehe.
  20. here is some power hammer porn for those who want a closer look My link
  21. Hi mate hmm thats about the best news i have had in a long time cheers will make this easier i have a bad habit of over build/designing things when i dont know whats enough and whats too much yes it wil save me some cash and also time and ohh boy is cement pricy atm.
  22. Thank you all for the advice much appreciated it is good to hear if i was far off or not i am still very green with less then 5 hours total operating powerhamers I have decided on 92CM a bit higher then working table hight John you have good reason to be proud i am also proud to own her i will cast a foundation for the hammer 1 meter deep and a bit bigger around then the base of the hammer and cast it so its separated from the floor and then lots of iron in it and then brill 30mm holes and glue in 27mm whole tread 200mm into the cement when cured ofc. and make some thick washers to go under the big nuts that would do it i hope i will keep taking pics and post them when i get to installing her cant wait cheers all
  23. Hello after a long long waiting time looking at my air hammer and working my behind off building my workshop with lots of unwanted stops and hindrances over the past year or more, I have finally come close to completion of the whole shebang. SO, now i am in doubt about what hight i want my working hight of the power hammer to be and well here i am asking all you who "knows" what hight should i aim for top of lower die it is a 1CWT(55kgs) Pilkington air hammer i have been thinking the 90cm would be good but is the far off ? i am 1,91meters tall how high is your lower die and how tall are you? Also all them fancy epoxies you can get for fastening bolts into cement/concreet would that be a bad direction to go for bolting down the hammer to the base? it would make installing it a whole lot easier it will be 4 big (27 or 32 mm bolts) between the hammer and the cement foundation will there be 9inch pine wood blocks strapped together and i cant lift the hammer in any way once it is over the foundation and it weights 2 tons. thanks in advance for any help / pointers Regards Daniel. PS this is a pic of the hammer My link
  24. well all the ones you mentioned are very different from one another, the very best being a prober air hammer for best balance between control and power but most likely also expensive i this it would help if you tried out a few different power hammers and then decide what you want and then get the best this you can pay for. go to user setting and change it so your location is show so people can see where in the world you are and maybe you can find some fellow smiths who have the different power hammers and visit for a show n tell and a play? i have never tried one but have read good things about some of the utility air hammers and seems cheaper then self-contained air hammers and very controllable but only if your based in the US or there around ohh and look and search in the power hammer section on here lots of info there goodluck with it mate.