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I Forge Iron


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Everything posted by DClaville

  1. Not yet but i have plans on some fire/flames in black/grey shades on my right shoulder and a bit down the arm and back with my middle name Claville in there somewhere but i will have to wait until i have enough cash to spare and might take a few years as i need machines and a power hammer for my shop.. DC
  2. Thats a nice splat john. Step by step mosaic - British Blades :: Custom Knife Making Maxen is the man you need..
  3. don't harden to much if at all.. can hurt you or some one els. DC
  4. what is that thing a drill you speak of?? hmm most be how you call what we call a hot round punch ;)
  5. the chance of it having more then 0,25% is veryvery low it is next to no used SS that has high carbon in it..
  6. DClaville

    Step Vises

    cool never seen one of those before. xxxx now i need one more tool..
  7. it can be done with 316 but if you heat it to high and hit it it will crumble. so low heat and many hits.. DC
  8. yep nice table the lamp pics makes no sense to me either. DC
  9. i have two hammers i mostly use for tools a 800grams and a 1,2kg never other hammers for tooling and if others are using my shop with me there is a penalty fee (beer) for using one of my good hammer for hitting tools DC
  10. nice.. i like the idea of it well i might get the point more when i get around to getting some of Aspery's books. DC
  11. now that is a clever bender!! never seen one like it DC
  12. I think Mike is thinking about the lose sleeves or that is never the less what I find dangerous and that he is using loose blocks on the dies of the hammer they can go flying true him any moment.. DC
  13. hmm interesting master Hofi. i like the idea about the wing that make the air swirl more.. and all in all it looks like a nice forge DC
  14. very nice looking leaves as all of your work master Hofi. i am wondering the 1st. tool/die you use "1 combination dies to preper the basic form" is it the standard available from anyang, comi flat and draw dies? or the combi wide flat and slim flat die (I believe it maybe is designed by your self)? and do you have photos of em ? Cheers DC
  15. well if it is mostly normal forging work use it and do as all others said and since it is really old don't grind it any more.. but a know many will disagree with me on this but if you forge a lot of blades and price flat stuff and have a old but not that old anvil (one piece steel ones) i grind em down to smooth and it any really big digs I weld em up using 0,60carbon self hardening welding stick and I also grind it up high in the grits so I can see my own reflection and keep it that way or the prober use of it keeps it shiny. and oil it up if you are leaving it for more then a few days with out use.. DC
  16. now that is nice and beautiful thanks for showing DC + Ted and Karen That is what blacksmithing needs!..
  17. I like the idea of using metal saw dust or skarfs or what ya call em in English.. and a light oil.. and also the idea of a octagon shaped interior DC
  18. very nice i am planing to make some thing like this maybe smaller tho but i would also love to get more close up pics and if you would teel a bit more about what you did ? and what do you put inside so that it works??.. DC
  19. don't paint it with zinc paint other paint can't stick to it just grease it of and get some strong paint like hammerlik paint or emalia or what such things are called over in the US give it a few layers and grease/oil it plenty. or let it rust all it want at some point it will not rust any more. just oil the screw box DC
  20. hmmm have to be my bench grinder with a very coarse stone on one site and a heavy wire brush on the other site, can't do with out it use for hot and cold steel while i forge to clean and tuch up shape. then welder and drill press.. well hope to soon or with in the next 2 years to get my own shop done and get my belt grinder build and a disk grinder/ buffer and of course get a power hammer DC
  21. shape and all heat to non magnetic and let cool in still air 2-3 times and then Bring up to non magnetic again and quench in Oil. then polish up to shiny one side of it (from one end to the other) of it and heat the middle till the hammer hitting end gets purple and the punch end get to a dark straw but keep it up a bit more so that a blue/purple colour goes down to 1-1,5cm from the tip that way it is only the end that "does the business" that is really hard and rest of it is strong. and remember to cool very often while driving a hole in hot iron, and the tool will last long. just my 2 cents. EDIT: ohh forgot I use spring steel for mine, like from old leaf springs and such Cheers DC
  22. I am also building a new workshop and my bench grinder will be bolted down where i need it on a big old square pipe. but belt grinder, buffer and drill press will all get a small table as I find it very important to have some table space for the stuff I work on at every place. it all depends on if one has enough room to work in.
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