billyO

Whatayamean, Frosty??!!? Isn't that the FASTEST way to teach 'em? It may leave a mark, but not forever.... Maybe it's thinking like that, that's kept me single for the past 40+yrs....

Here's my top 5. 1. Acquire a heat source, options include (but may not be limited to) Coal forge, Propane forge, induction forge. 2. Acquire the necessary tools: something to hold the hot steel with, something to hit the hot steel with, and something flat to hit it on. (Seeing as how you asked suggestions, depending on your means and commitment, at some point you may find that size, unfortunately for some of us, DOES matter, so buy as big as you can afford.) 3. Using the techniques mentioned by njanvilman, learn to make a center punch, then round punches, square punches, butchers, fullers, chisels. 4. Using what you learned, learn to forge tongs so you can start expanding the size and shape of materials you can work with. 5. Learn how to do the next thing you want to do.

Welcome jmccoid. If you put your general location in the header you might be surprised how many of the IFI guys live within visiting distance. (Sorry, Frosty. I couldn't resist). Hard to picture what you're trying to do, any sketch? Another take would be to forge a flat tab on the end of the material you plan on wrapping the handle with, punching a hole and then using a pre-made rivet to fasten the 2 pieces.

In my experience with letter punches, I've run through a number of them when using cold they hold up for a while (thus Mr McPherson's light and occasional comments). I've used them on hot metal many more times. I'd suggest not dilly-dallying with the punch on the hot metal, but quick use should allow for sufficient cooling to avoid ruining the temper. BTW - Black Frog, I was wondering how hot your metal has to be for that stamp. My last one was large, but not as detailed as yours and had to make sure I was at least red to get a good stamp. (full disclosure....a former FIB if that means anything to you ;) )

The question I'd ask would be, what is the intended use of the hammer/striker? If you're looking to draw out stock greater than, say, 1" square, then I'd say you and your nephew will do it quicker and easier than you ever could with a treadle/oliver. I've tried using a treadle hammer to draw out stock before and found that I got as tired if not moreso than doing it by hand on the corner of the anvil. Rapid up/down of one leg is awkward, and will force you to actually use more muscles to stabilize your trunk and body and you'll get tired quicker. Don't forget, when smithing, you're always against the clock, the faster you hit the better. Try to stamp one leg at the same tempo you use your hammer, I bet you get tired pretty quick. . If, on the other hand, you're using top tooling to add details to forged pieces, you'll have much more control with the treadle hammer than your nephew. To me, when using tooling (punches, chisels, fullers, etc.) is when the treadle hammer shines. It seems like you're ready to build the hammer, so build it. Just know it's limitations and use it for what it's best. To get the most satisfaction out of any job, make sure the tool you're using is the right one for said job.

Thanks for the nice comments everyone. It was a lot of fun. Here are some updated pics of the (almost) finished piece. I clearcoated everything and was surprised at how much it darkened the temper colors I drew on the seaweed. More practice is definitely needed to keep the colors more uniform. I left the 3-branched kelp unfinished to let it rust a bit before sealing it to give it even more of an 'organic' feel... (thus the 'almost finished' comment) rockstar: I should have added one more panel, and may do so in the future ausfire: I hope they do too, but if not, that's OK too, had fun doing it. Frosty: Funny you mention that. I also have a 3/4 ton diesel with another homemade kennel that's much bigger, made out of field fencing. I've been rescuing Siberian huskies for years, and I can think of many a time when I've been at a stoplight, look in the rearview mirror and see someone behind me break into a huge smile and point to the truck to their passenger whenever one or more of my pups would get up to look around. I have wondered if I'll notice any similar responses without the pups. (Think the ladies will like the underwater scene? Should I have put in a mermaid?) beammeupscotty: thanks, but that's what good camera angles will do, easy to edit out the flaws. If I were to do another one, it'd be tighter from what I learned on this one. I'd probably use all forged joinery instead of welds as well. I'll try to remember to post one last pic with the rusted kelp when finished.

Hello all. I haven't posted any pics of my stuff recently, so here's a few of my latest project, a dog kennel for my little truck, enjoy. and some detail pics

Here's something I heard the other day: "It's easier to forge IN a crack than to forge OUT a crack. .

I'm pretty sure I've seen one of Darryl's lion's head somewhere, probably at one of the NWBA conferences....

Darryl Nelson has a number of DVDs for sale on different animal heads, I know he has one for his rams head, a bear head and a lynx head.

Maybe this is a good reason to purchase that induction forge you've always wanted??? or should that read: "the induction forge I've always wanted"

*Slapping forehead* Thanks for making my life a bit easier Glenn! This "WDITOT" moment brought to you by IFI...

I've been using mine a bit lately, standing on edge so I can pierce round stock and square stock on the diamond. You could make an anvil swage for this but if you've got the swage, you've got a good variety. Mine's a standard one, great for bending larger stock than I normally use, but my swage block envy is a buddy of mine's who has one with all the edge cutouts, round, vee, hex AND various dishes for ladles, shovels, bowls and spoons.

Let us know when you find out. We tumble large stuff in a tumbler that could give 4-5 college kids a good ride but 30-90 minutes usually does the job. The media we're using is 1" +/- slugs. I remember an article in an old Hot Iron News issue about a tumbler made with a number of tires all hanging from a shaft run by a small motor, All parts cheap if not free (or already owned), As far as getting into the tiny cracks, you just need a small enough media. Sand would work, but may take a while. Oh yeah, and remember, you'll be tumbling a number of them at once, so they will knock against each other to speed the process of de-scaling.

I agree too!!! well, maybe not the touchmark part....

I'd say you do. Oxygen is quite a bit more expensive than air, no?

Good job with the video. Uh oh, here comes Sally..... The only suggestion I'd make would be to move the gas can to the hood of the vehicle... Safety first!

Not saying there aren't other ways, but this is the only reason I've ever had, or seen, with openers breaking the bottle.

I agree with Mr Frosty, and if the collars are going to get hot enough to expand, how many thousandths are you talking about? Could you draw an ever so slight taper where you collar? That should minimize movement.

Yesterday I was looking for my flatter and found my work table. :blink:

I promise I'll do that if it ever happens. :rolleyes: (as soon as I can type after healing, that is.... ;) )

I don't have a card, but find that my fingernail works pretty well to remove the larger pieces that will scratch your work. (Hopefully I didn't just bring up the topic of touching files with bare fingers again....)

I spend quite a bit of time at Terry's and have used his Wolf a lot (and he uses it on an almost daily basis) and I'd love to have one.

Looks to me like everyone else is confused..... :unsure:

Hi all, thanks for the replies. Thomas - I do mainly stuff for myself, some art, animals, picture frames, bottle openers, flowers, hinges, plan hangers, been having fun with hands out of 1" stock, working on a couple of gates, etc. But what I'm looking for is to make it easy to butcher tenons, and some 3/8" - 3/4" fullers. 781 - OCP used to be up the road from me, and a couple of friends have some that are 10 years old and show little wear with regular use. I want one that'll last for years. swede - Apparently my welding skills only last for 4 years, (or/and perhaps I need to cut the stump to lower the tool so I'm not hitting the dye toward the back guides). thanks again.