billyO

If you're not a Teetotaller (and it's legal for you to do so), have a beer (preferably a homebrew), relax, sit back and enjoy. Look back at previous successes and enjoy them again. Blacksmithing (Life, for that matter) should be enjoyable. If you don't enjoy what you're doing, do something else.

If you're in Vancouver, check out the NWBA site at Blacksmith.org. We have almost monthly meetings just up the road from you in Longview. Here's a link to info about the December meeting the weekend after next: http://blacksmith.org/events/december-2013-nwba-mentoring-center/

That reminds me of another safety related one that I mention many times when demonstrating... "If it's dry, it's hot. If it's wet, it's not."

My take on Blacksmithing, "Just make one mistake after another until I'm done."

What if you ask unseasoned blacksmiths? I've been meaning to do something like this, have given it a lot of thought and was planning on taking 5-6 pieces of 1/2" round, forge weld them in the middle into a trunk, you want some meat here for the trunk, then spitting and drawing out the branches and roots as desired. I was planning on using the branches/roots to hold a mirror, perhaps closer to 2D than 3D....

Another thought is, if you feel you're hammer control is good, are you brushing the scale off the piece and the anvil regularly, like every heat? Scale will leave pockmarks and the longer it's on, the deeper the crater.

I'm almost 100% sure that Ken is no longer making hammers as all of his time is taken up by his other company (last I heard he's got 5 folks working for him). A friend of mine and I tried to get him to make a couple of hammers 2+ years ago, even discussed it in person with him at a conference. He's just too busy these days, and there's no indication that that'll change any time soon. My suggestion is to look elsewhere. PS - Not implying he's not a good guy (he is), just that he's too busy.

I've seen bears near my property, heard of cougars, but most of my chickens get taken by coyotes or eagles. That's what I'd worry about. An enclosed coop is about the only way to guarantee safe chickens. I guess there's always new dangers whenever you move to a new place. If you're moving into Wildlife's neighborhood, you gotta play by their rules.

And if there's a big enough market, perhaps the price will drop and the quality will improve. Just like the free-market promises!!! :huh: "Not bloody likely"

Good luck with the purchase! Did my comment on the 3 smiths motivate the move close to Eatonville? I didn't even mention names.,,

I should have added, If you ever head to Mt Rainier at Paradise, drop me a line, you may be driving right past my house. I have 3 neighbors that are longtime smiths (40+ years each). All within about 8-9 miles out here. Out here that's close enough to be neighbors.... Good luck with the move.

Be thankful, and enjoy it while it lasts...because it doesn't last. (hopefully I'm not the first to tell you that... :huh: )

Hello, and welcome. I agree with Neil, check out the NWBA, a very active group. As far as your concern about if there are any smiths in the area, I can think of at least a dozen. Also, if you're in Seattle, you'll be close to the Pratt Center which does a lot of classes. I'm not a bladesmith, but you'll be close to Bob Kramer and Dave Lisch, two of my favorite blade makers. As far as the dietary concerns, too bad you weren't already here as I just had 2 bulls put down last Friday... B)

Thanks for the fun video. As this is probably another arrow in the quiver of those who claim that I live under a rock, this should have been labeled as an instructional, because it's first time I've heard the term "Steampunk". I now see why some folks propose teaching history in rap and pop music these days.

Re-reading, I see the mention of the air-dam, sorry.

Hi Dave. Were you by any chance at last year's NWBA fall conference? Bob Kramer has a fan under his forge that blows air straight up in front of the opening that he says does a good job keeping separating the hot innards of the forge from a cooler outside atmosphere. (If I remember correctly, he compared it to the blast of warm air that greets many PNWers as they enter grocery stores in the wintertime.) That may blow the heat into the hood/chimney effectively...

Nuge - Are those timber details yours? If so, are you willing to share design info? I'm remodelling my house using 6x12s and 9x12s and a basic timber frame design but planning on using iron for the joinery instead of the traditional Timber Traming mortice, tenonss, pegs and knee braces.

Hi all, and thanks for the responses! Sorry about the delay, but was fianally able to get back to this and I think I've figured it out enough to work on the actual piece (and it only took 3 3/4 practice pieces, down from my usual 6-7! :D) It still took me about 12-15 heats (not counting the upsetting heats), pretty labor intensive for my tastes, but that may be due to me being on the slower side. Here're pics JohnB: I upset, drilled a 1/8" hole at the end of the split, bent the split 90 the harder way, made the "T", then bent each arm to form the collar individually, I may practice one more and try to do both arms of the collar at the same time, that could save about 5-6 heats...

Thanks! This should hit the top of the "Duh, why didn't I think of that!?!" bucket.

Hello all. While making some integrated collars for a grille and gate I'm doing, I'm having a minor issue that may not even be an issue. What I'm trying to do is split the end of a 1/2 X 1 1/2" bar on the flat about 2"+ a bit, spread the split and forge into a "T" shape, with each arm of the T wrapping around a piece of 1" square forming a collar, with the 1" centered on the 1 1/2" flat. What seems to happen is a thinning of the material at the end of the split when I forge the "T". I've tried a number of test pieces trying splitting the stock with a hot cut, band saw, and drilling a 1/8" hole at the end of the split, and all stretch at the junction. I can push material from the bend to the thinning with a straight pein, to re-thicken that spot, but it takes some extra work to do. My questions are 2: 1. Is there a better way (other than forgewelding) to make the "T"? 2. Should I worry about this? . . . I found out I can hide the thinning on the inside of the collar (but I'll know its there) Let me know if pics would help. Thanks.

Although I love the idea of capturing "waste heat" for use, and wish our society did more of that (especially in industry), I'm pretty sure you'd be violating some fire code, or insurance policy clause so beware. (boy, I HATE our lawsuit culture...) :angry: I'm not saying don't do it, merely don't expect any sympathy or empathy from authorities in the event of an accident.

As far as expanding product line, garden tools are good additions for farmer's markets.

Fotunately, just had my first painful injury directly related to hammering yesterday. Whie bending a piece of 1/2 x 1 at the anvil, a dime-sized flake of scale popped off and landed flat on my tongue. Either I apparently "wanna be like Mike", or, more likely I just need to keep my wire brush closer to the anvil, AND use it!

Good suggestion, Matt. A trick I've used a few times (and need to use more often) comes from my old school days 40 years or so past, and one of the good lasting things from my ex (second only to the "ex" part <_< ) is an overhead projector. Works great for grills and gates. You can use any size sketch pad, make as detailed a sketch as you want, trace with the clear overhead screen, then project/trasnsfer onto a board that's as close as needed to make a full sized version.

It seems as if the topic has shifted from the scrap pile to Paul, a bit unfairly, I think... I've noticed that there are more scrap yards that won't let customers browse/shop than will. I've got to drive over an hour to get to the recycler that has a bone yard to pick through, and on the way I drive past at least 6 others that will accept, but not sell scrap.