Quarry Dog

Liquid nails(silicon)?

Can't remember if this was already covered or not, but it is also generally frowned upon to pepper the people working around you. Try to keep an eye on whoever is around. That being said, it is on them if they move into where you've been aiming for the past 5 minutes without giving some form of heads up, especially if it is behind and to the right of you. Finally, if you have no choice but to aim toward someone, politley ask if they could move to one side for a second while you hit that one hard to reach spot. If they have half an ounce of sense, they gladly will. This happens a lot when you're working with large, hard to move objects with multiple people working around the same area, or when you're working out of a vice for your own safety.

I figuredthis was going to be that DND or Travelers game that Frosty and Charles were talking' 'bout runnin'. Oh well, are you guys still trying to get permission from Glenn and figure out how to run it?

Are you sure that's not a Ghetto Knifemaker?.

Well at least History and Discovery haven't gone as far off track as TLC. I don't really consider "Say yes to the dress", or "What not to wear" or many of their other programs to be up to par for something called "The LEARNING channel." Nat Geo is starting to slowly go the way of the ratings hound too. Hopefully the Smithsonian channel hangs on.

Seeing that you're on an island, would it be reasonable to assume that there's a scrap yard somewhere on that island with all the dead cars/industrial scrap/non-sensitive military scrap? I mean, not many people that would really want to pay shipping from an isolated archipelago to a major land mass for junk, unless the chinese have "recycling" contracts like they have with most scrapyards over here. Now fuel, that's another problem entirely. I would imagine coal is either super expensive, or outlawed by all the environutz. Propane isn't too cheap either from what I remember of my trip a few years ago. Perhaps an oil burner running off of McDonald's fryer oil?

Did you try hangin' a black light next to the screens every few feet? I hear bugs are attracted to 'em, 'dunno 'bout skeeters though. Hmm, you could probably market the system as "The Great Northern Bugfence". I bet tractor supply would have to carry it up there, as well as Minnesota, Wisconsin, etc.

​That ain't no joke, don't do much for the bugs though.

Tacking on to DSWs input on gloves: 1) You must be able to get the glove off with one hand, and quickly. Two shakes max. 2) Never work hot steel with wet gloves. If you get a hold of something hot, it will generate steam and burn you even worse. This goes for sweaty gloves too. My personal preference is for all leather "driver's" style gloves, although I cut the elastic out of them so that I can free my hands easily. I prefer them over welding gloves because theydon't have a lining, so my hands don't really sweat in them. Earplugs. Try the banded style, you don't have to touch the earplug with dirty hands, so you're not putting dirt in your ear, and they don't get as sweaty as muffs. They're not for everyone though. Greetings to you and your son. Welcome to the craft

Even fer that fancy 2-ply stuff? All jokes aside, it depends on the product, as well as how far you are going to go with presentation. A cool looking $1000.00 skinning knife? You bet my bearclaw it better come in a fancy box, even if I have to pay an extra 30 bucks, 50 if it doubles as a display stand too. Otherwise I'd go to Horibble Fake and buy one, or Big 5 for a slightly more pricey unit that might actually last Good presentation on high end items just makes sense. It is another form of advertising, if done right. Even on lower end items, their is usually some effort put into presentation. If you see a loaf of break in a white bag with a few multicolored polka dots who do you think of? Wonderbread? I don't really want a stand for my bread though, so that would be too far. The least that can be done for a customer would be to make sure that a reasonable effort was made to ensure their safety in opening the package, and the protection of their investment. If you can get the customer to pay a little more for it because it looks cool, even better.

You wanna talk about a lumpy pillow. "XXtra Firm".

Easiest way I can think of is a #5 tip on a journeyman torch. Definitely not the best of results, but definitely easy, at least if you have a steady hand and a good strong piercing jet.

Don't forget sobe bombs and trash bags full of oxy-ace with a long speaker wire fuse...good times. Don't forget 5 christmas trees in one fire at midnight on New Year's Eve. PS: Don't try any of this at home!

About a month and a half ago, a fresh class of blacksmith hopefuls was starting at the shop that I hammer at. One of them showed up in an a-shirt, basketball shorts, and sneakers. The instructor made a judgement call that since the first class is rather low impact, that he would give the guy a pass, spend a little extra time talking about shop safety, and proceed as usual. The instructor has a standing rule. "If you mess up in a way that I haven't, I'll buy you a beer." Well this guy earned a beer. At the very last 30 seconds of the class, this guy dropped his piece, it hit the anvil, flipped end for end and charred its way down the front of his basketball shorts from just below the waist band to just above the hem. Luckily he didn't put new meaning to a Jerry Lee Lewis song, but just barely. The next week he showed up in his old coveralls from his time in the Navy, even though it was 90 degrees outside. The instructor has since stated that he will not be making that mistake again any time soon. No I was not the instructor (still too wet behind the ears). Usually the instructor is spot on when it comes to safety, but everyone has bad days.

I'm fairly certain that the anvil isn't cast iron. I say this based on the handling holes under the horn. Also based on that, I believe what you're looking at is a forge welded wrought iron anvil. I can't tell if there's a maker mark/weight stamping/serial number from the pictures. I'm not sure, but I think I see the welded tool steel face, with a little bit of minor abuse from someone that got a little happy with a chisel. I'm sure ther will be someone that will have better input than mine, but it is a start.

To piggyback on what the others have said about reading, I know there are a several good FREE books under the "Download" tab up top. Google books also has a lot of FREE old downloadable books (1880s to 1920s) on blacksmithing/metallurgy/machinery that will serve quite well alongside more updated resources. We have tools/equipment/capabilities nowadays that they couldn't even begin to imagine back then. They had lots of good tricks that are mostly forgotten about nowadays, some of which I've used at work/play. There are some things though that reading just doesn't do justice for though. There are a lot of little details that the old writers just took for granted as being common knowledge that would always be there, and without someone to show you those details in real life, the next best way to learn is by watching videos. Youtube is a very rich resource, if you know what to look for. One thing to remember is that just about every book you read, and every video you watch, will make this seem easy. Do not be surprised or disheartened when you spend all day trying to make something that someone did in a video in half an hour. I still find myself at that point on a pretty regular basis after 3 years. The reason they can do it that fast is because they have a lot of experience under their hammer hand.

Well, Frosty would say to post your general area, as you never know who's in yer backyard to show you the ropes. My personal advice for sourcing beating surfaces (AKA Anvils) would be to check out heavy equipment repair/rental places, or find a friend who works around a machine shop, or works around heavy equipment. These places/people are likely to have access to large chunks of scrap and smaller chunks too. Some of them might even be willing to help you out for the promise of a cool bottle opener or something like that. If all else fails, find a scrap yard or a steel yard with a "remnant" pile, as you can find rather sizeable chunks for less than half the price per pound of new steel. For basic hammers, look up local yard/estate/barn sales and flea markets/swap meets, but like Charles said stay away from "claw" hammers if possible, as I've seen the "claw" break off and go flying at speed. Find a good cross/ball pein hammer if possible. Dress the face and pein smooth, so that it doesn't mark up your work so badly, and you see the after effects of your strikes. Also, make sure your handle fits tight in the head of the hammer. When I was about 6 I had one fly off the handle and come down on the head of the owner of said hammer (AKA my dad). Luckily he didn't need his cat scanned or even stitches, but he did not appreciate gravity's input on the topic at hand, and promptly gave me a lesson in fitting hammer handles. For making your own tongs, without the use of tongs, google up "Guru's Tongs". It should be the first hit. Hope this helps.

That's the video I was referring to. I was wrong though, not the best example of "full extension" windmilling, although they are going up over their heads with it, or off to the side. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=k_LA_R4ifYk I'm pretty sure this is the video Dan P. Was referring to. Right around 5 minutes there is some pretty good old fashioned windmilling going on. It is kinda grainy though.

You'd still be surpised at some of the deals you can come across. Just keep looking and be patient. I got my first anvil through a weld shop that was selling for a retired shop teacher. It was 151 lbs PW and came with a semi-functional stand and 6 pairs of oldish tongs, all for $250, 2 years ago. I know of another one that if I could get a hold of the guy is probably a 150ish HB for $100 last time we talked. Just keep looking, be patient, and you might come across a not so greedy soul.

Just hope you don't have to stop it in a hurry.

I have to use one of those 20 pounders at work every couple of months. It usually gets used to break loose a big "wing" nut for what amounts to a 16" diameter bolt. It is a pretty good workout to side swing this thing for 15 minutes to half an hour. I'm glad I don't have to do full swings with it on a regular basis, and I almost never have to windmill it. I can't even begin to imagine a 1000 pound hammer. PS: Did this guy happen to have a red beard and have a thing against frost giants?

I was just thinking about that anchor making video. If that isn't windmilling, I don't know what is. It seems to me their is also a old time video of some smiths welding about a 12in by 6in by 10ft ring for a steam engine, using similar methods.

That is just awesome.

If you want a cardio workout, try running a good sized oliver hammer (think slow stairclimber powered power hammer) for half an hour. You WILL need a dry shirt. All jokes aside though, your arms will develop fairly quickly. Your offhand will even develop a good bit just from holding onto stock/tongs and from turning a blower if you end up with a handcranked unit. If you end up with/at a shop where there is a good bit of distance between forge/anvil/vise, there will be a good bit of fast-ish walking, so as not to waste heat, while still being safe. I also can't say I've ever seen anyone forging on their behind, except for traditional japanese smithing, which is not what most people would call a comfortable seating position. I hear that just standing and maintaining balance while doing even an office job makes a difference for weight, not to mention swinging a hammer for a couple hours. I'm sure that the elevated temperature in the general forging area helps as well. Also, don't forgot that a lot of things that you will be dealing with are not what would be considered light. All in all, I would say that there is a light to moderate amount of exercise in the average blacksmithing experience, even working 1/4" stock. There are even certain situations that I would consider fairly strenuous, as my opening statement suggests. It all depends on what equipment you're using, how heavy your stock is, and how your work environment is set up. PS: DRINK WATER. The forge will dry you out in short order. It's like a sauna. PPS: As Arkie said, start off light, and work up to the big stuff as you become more comfortable. I learned the hard way that It is a lot easier to learn how to control a light hammer, than it is a heavier one. 4 pounds of steel swung at the back of your own hand while using a center punch is not fun.

I could definitely see concave hammers and nails not mixing well. "Hmm, I can't sink my nails all the way without marking up my wood?" I've never used his carving tools. Heck he won't even let his wife touch 'em. I would imagine that maybe the hammer would try to twist a little if you don't hit pretty close to center. I would imagine a little tweak to the wrist would hurt less than nailing my thumb with a 4 pound crosspein. I guess I'll have to make one some day. Maybe as practice for making one that I'd actually use for forging. It would be a perfect opportunity to acquaint myself with punching and drifting an eye.