Quarry Dog

I've yet to get into making billets, but in MOST situations (life in general), I've noticed that starting small and working up is the better way to start. It is usually safer, as well as easier to figure out where you went wrong, and more likely to be easily corrected without starting from scratch. Once you've done enough where you get it right 90% of the time, it's time to step up to the next level. I'm to the point where when I don't have anything else to smith up or my inspiration is lacking, I'm faggot welding a horseshoe that I straightened out back onto itself. The latest one has been drawn and folded about 4 times now and it's starting to get small enough where I need to add in another horseshoe so I have something substantial to work. As far as the rebar rod on the end, you have to remember that if you cut & stack, you will have to cut the very end off so that the weld spot won't show up as a repeated flaw in the pattern of your billet, but if you're cutting and polishing between stacks anyway, that shouldn't be very hard to make sure of, and it really won't eat up that much material if your'e drawing it out pretty long between stacks. Finally, to cover the welding with a wooden handle. If you mean welding with a wooden handle on your hammer, a little bit of singed wood has to be better for your health than singed plastic or fiberglass, and a metal handle is bad for your wrist/elbow/shoulder/neck/back. Seriously, don't use one for any extended period of time EVER. It will mess you up in the long run. I've forge welded 1.5" bars together with a wooden handled hammer and it was fine. It didn't even smoke, although I had to wear a glove cuz that puppy was H-O-T.

Wasn't there a guy on here trying to fab/machine an anvil somewhat similar, dovetails and all? "If you want to hear a new idea, read an old book" or find an old anvil.

OK, gotcha. I was thinking that their was some nifty mystery magic fuller that didn't let your work bounce around everywhere when you hit it...like a smithin' magician/blacksmith helper but better.

Locking fuller?!? That sounds very interesting. Is there a thread detailing what exactly that is? I can't find anything in search or google. Sorry bout that. Didn't realize this had rolled over to page 2. That last comment was in reply to Charles.

I find the old books to be very worthwhile, although stay away from a good portion of their alchemical advice. Some of it could easily hurt you very badly.

I've had a sterling pendant that turned my a spot on my breastbone black for the first few weeks I wore it. Just dip sterling in bleach and it first turns purple, then darkening shades of gray.

I was about 1 and a half when I crawled up into bed and slammed a boot down between my dad's eyes because he wanted to sleep instead of play. When I was 6, he put a hammer in my hand, so we could knock down a rotted wooden fence, and the hammer head came off (totally his fault for not tightening the wedges) and landed on his head from about 20 feet up. So yeah, I'm keeping heavy things away from any kids I might have until they're at least 6, and even then, it will be with very much forethought and a little bit of training for, and checking of, the equipment.

So it is the same stuff. As soon as I see those little flowers (the ones around here are usually purple) I pull them out by the roots. Even then they come back for a few years. After a few years though, they start getting thinner, and finally stop. That only works if you are VERY thorough though.

(And I know their ouch/touch) Oh, and apparently they can get 5 ft across. They also take over empty lots and require next to nothing for water.

I've seen the ones Thomas posted, they grow on very low, flat growing (about half an inch tall), spreading, ground cover that can get up to about 2 foot across (as far as I know), and can bear about a hundred clusters of 6 of the little buggers.

Very well thought out questions. I will say up front that I've no experience in such matters but have asked similar questions of one Mr. Frost. I'm sure he will correct me if I'm wrong. I have a feeling that if you're dead set on running a cylindrical forge the full length of that pipe, you'll need multiple burners, which does not seem to be necessary for general forging, and will use excess fuel. Do you know the temperature rating of this ceramic wool? If if will handle welding temperatures it should be fine, and it may even be what we call kaowool, just a different manufacturer. 2 inches seems to be the recommended thickness. RigidizerRigidizer on the innermost layer will help to keep the fibers from breaking up and producing dust that is rather unfriendly to the lungs in the long term, as well as make it last longer. A flux resistant hard floor is also recommended if you plan on doing any forge welding. I don't know the answer for whether that insulation is an appropriate density or how those burners will work withwith the projected volume of the forge body. You might want to look at 3/4 inch (or metric equivalent design) T-Burners. They're easy to make, and work well at 300-350 cubic inch volume. I'll work on metric volumes later if necessary as I'm riding in a very bumpy truck right now. I hope I didn't misinform you too much, and maybe spread out the question load some.

I can sit like that and on occasion have to cram myself into small Gumby spots at work, but thankfully I have the luxury of not being in those positions every day, all day. I can only imagine how long it takes for their bodies to decide that they're going to stick like that...Sounds like what Ma used to threaten about making faces behind her back. Don't forget that guy with the small headknife/gouge that was making the sheaths...I wonder how many times he stabbed himself in the chest while learning to handle that thing. Another thing that I found really cool is how much they use the knives that they're making in the production of said knives. That is what I would call believing in your product.

That's just cool. I'm not bad at forge welding itself, but I have a hard time getting scarfs that I like. But I haven't had anything so "convenient" (or not) as two pieces welding of their own volition.

Not much cuts teek well. It requires special equipment more in line with a cut-rock facility than a carpentry shop.

I'll have to talk to my buddy Kiwi (Kiwi Racing, one guess where he grew up).

I might try to make it into a bar, and then layer it with some 1/8" bronze flatstock that I have access to, as long as the "welding" (liquidus?) temperature is close. I have some research to do, but if I don't flub this, I'll have some cool looking stuff, and a cool story.

I have a buddy who just ditched his alcohol fueled racecar. Now he has a heavily modified craftsman lawnmower that pushes about 100-125 horses out of what used to be a 22 horse Kohler. I almost forgot that it has Hoosier tires and goes about 80 miles an hour. How's that for watchin' grass grow.

I can't even think how I'd manage to weld the bosses together, but that does sound like something I could manage, even forging them completely separately. I can see how peeling that can would be awesome.

I know this is an old post, but I happened to get my hands on about 8 inches of 00 multistranded copper wire and was wondering if it could be forge welded. Since that question has been answered affirmatively by this post, I have another to throw in. Is there a way to etch it once done to reveal a pattern, much like a forge welded cable billet? If not I guess I could figure out something to mix in with it before I start. Maybe silicon bronze? I have access to some of that. No matter the outcome, even if it goes pear-shaped, this type of puttering sounds like my rather perverse breed of "fun".

Would a rough or bastard three square file work on hardwood well and leave a decent finish? Maybe have to hit it with a file card now and again. I know I hit my file handles like that to give them some texture and grip. Maybe hit em with a buffing wheel real quick to burnish the wood a little afterward?

Good to know about the big rebar.

Keeping from welding something in the fire? That almost sounds like you don't have to try. If so I'm jealous and want to know the trick that makes it so simple for you In all sseriousness, I'll keep in mind that whiteout = no weld, and I'll also wonder at the application of such a finding.

Trust me, as a Marine (no longer active), I get the 10% (more like 1%) that do dumb stuff that jerks everyone's knee. I also have to deal with MSHA (Mine Safety & Health Administration, in case other countries call it otherwise) which is stricter than OSHA (Occupational S&HA) and post fatalgrams on a regular basis. As a Miner, I was actually asking out of genuine professional curiosity what they use on the mine if only boilermakers are allowed to use 4.5s AND they have to take special steps to be in compliance of some sort. I'm also curious what special steps they have to take to be in compliance. Only thing I have to worry about with grinders for MSHA is I have to make sure that my guards are on and all of my cords are in good condition. I don't believe I've ever met a boilermaker. Do they actually have boilers at coal and/or metal mines? Are they used for some sort of processing, or for power in very remote areas. I work in non-metal (rock, sand, and gravel to be exact) mines, as well maintaining cement plants, which the mines feed, so it is pretty straight forward. Not being sarcastic, just curious. Thanks.

You might be surprised how well soapstone holds up in the fire, at least well enough to put a good fuller mark in. A lot less chance of getting a cold shut, depending on how deep you're marking it with the cold chisel (I know I've done it.) A light centerpunch mark works well too, if your eyes are up for it, and that doesn't go away unless you burn it off.

I'd be lost without the 9 and the 4.5 on my service truck. I'm guessing pneumatic die grinderss are out of the question as well as they’re even more dangerous? What do you guys use when you have a bad weld, or to clean up a piece you just sneezed in the middle of torching? Scarfing tip on a torch? Files? Same goes for putting bevels on pipe. My 9 works fast.