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I Forge Iron

kayakersteve

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Everything posted by kayakersteve

  1. Ok...got it. I should have done that Sunday when my boy was working on a rr spike. Will try to this weekend if he lets me in.
  2. Yes, I knew I would get dinged for no PPE, but there wasn't a snowballs chance in hell I was going to pass up an opportunity to run that piece if history. When we went back Sunday and did more, we were much better geared up.
  3. I'm going to use it again this weekend to draw out a billet. What kind of photos/videos would you like to see?
  4. @AndrewOC - I just used that hammer you reference this past weekend for 12 hours straight - Still works great, but there was definately a learning curve.
  5. Thanks - I have a few more photos that detail mechanism more - Love the broken anvil that is the work surface. I reaaly enjoyed it.
  6. I was at the Chautauqua County Antique Equipment Association show this past weekend where they maintain and fully equiped blacksmith shop. Went there to watch and ended up working there for two days doing demos and working on a billet for a damascus blade that I had been doing at home by hand on my anvil. I know safety equipment is lacking here, but I did not expect to work. On day two, I geared up with pants, boots and safety glasses. Still forgot my ear plugs though! If video links are OK, this is a video I uploaded to youtube...
  7. Thanks for the replies - I figured somebody would have much more train knowledge than myself.
  8. Never thought of that, but I guess it makes sense. Does more tha one wheel actually have power to it or is those power sent to all wheels? I agreed shopped because if rail got that hot, I would have expected the tie to catch fire being that is oil soaked wood.
  9. So, can any train gurus tell if this is from a hot train wheel or something photoshopped. If real, must have been really hot.
  10. Great info, especially for beginners like me
  11. moderator51 - You are correct that I seem to have posted in wrong area - I am still getting used to site and it took a few days to even find that I had a PM from you. - I appreciate your directing me and will review more moving forward to save you guys from doing unneeded work.
  12. Thanks for responses everyone. I lost the thread after it was moved. This is indeed for blades and thickest would be around 3/16". I have an old CO2 tank from mig welding that has been retrofitted into my quench tank. Have been using used motor oil, but you guys have enlightened me and I will be switching to canola most likely. Tank holds around three gallons, so the commercial ones can get pricey!
  13. Is used canola oil ok or does it contain unwanted impurities? Using to harden 5160.
  14. For hardening, what type should you use? I was wondering if motor oil (used or new) or something like canola??? Thanks for help.
  15. Won't the concrete just slowly braek apart with repeated hammering on the sledge? Concrete doesn't like vibration.
  16. ~130# - Stamped 'Patent 4/24/1877' and has a 'P' on the leg
  17. Well, it looks like my two threads got merged which is fine, but in the end the pictures were lost. For those interested, here is my Flickr account where the photos can be viewed. http://www.flickr.com/photos/90874925@N06/
  18. Measurements as follows: OA length - 20 3/4" Base width - 9 1/2" Base length - 10 1/4" Height - 11 1/8" Face - 13" x 3 3/4" Cutting table 1 3/4" Horn 6"
  19. Forgot to add link to old thread for thos interested: http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/30655-fisher-1882-4-any-info-on-this-anvil/
  20. Well, I couldn't resist taking another look at this old Fisher. I decided to try to buy it and offered him 200.00 and he said that would be fine. Just picked it up. Should I wire brush it or leave as is? Here are pics.
  21. firepot is 4" steel, but on a slight angle, so effectively is probably around 3 1/2 " deep.
  22. Good idea on the ash dump - I have been thinking about that. The cap still screws easily by hand, but I can see that changing over time.
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