kayakersteve
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Everything posted by kayakersteve
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Here is what i think a ricasso is:
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I apparently dont understand what a ricasso is because I think it has one.
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I love my JHM Competitor - see my avatar
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Thanks Solano - I think I'll keep it - kind of grown on me. The reason I say I learned a lot on this one as I still have flaws and mistakes that I hope to improve on when I do the next. Fun and addicting hobby!
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Thanks guys - Steel from Aldo included 1084, 1095 and 15n20 - Forged welded to 66 layers. I think that is called a ladder pattern.
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Well, here is the finished project - I learned a ton on this project which will help with my next.
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Loud and clear Rich ... Thanks -
Great information - Thanks - I think I have ruled this one out as 150fpm is the slowest it can be dialed down - Will keep looking. Appreciate all of the help and iformation
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Ok, gotcha. Thanks for your patience
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Ok, so I answered your Specific questions in sincerity and I don't get your point at all. Perhaps you could elaborate....I did everything that you suggested, yet don't get your point. .confused?
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Rich - it's posted right above - 150fpm is slowest - contacted them and they say is a great saw fir metal fab shop. For wood can go up to 3000fpm
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Rich - I always welcome your responses, but when you said it was too fast I thought I was missing something . 'The fpi speed of the blade is too fast for steel."
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150 fps is too fast? From manufacturer: Description: A variable frequency drive speed control with digital readout provides infinitely variable blade speeds for any metal cutting application. Just turn the speed control dial for on-the-fly speed changes. Inverter motor technology takes advantage of 3-phase control using 220 volt, single phase power. The vertical cutting configuration also makes feeding the work through the bandsaw for intricate cuts easy with plenty of control against the massive cast iron table. This Vertical Metal Cutting Bandsaw is the ideal bandsaw for any metal fabrication work. Specifications: 1-1/2HP, 220v, Single-Phase, 1725 RPM Variable Frequency Drive Speed Control 12" Maximum Cutting Height 17-1/2" Throat Capacity 133" Blade Length 1/8" - 1-1/4" Blade Size Range 150 - 3000 FPM Variable Blade Speed 45° Right & 5° Left Table Tilt 18" x 24" Precision Cast Iron Table Quick Release Blade Tension Fully Balanced Cast Aluminum Wheels w/ Rubber Tires Upper & Lower Blade Guides Rack & Pinion Adjustment on Upper Blade Guide Support Two Dust Ports Twin Drive Belts Rip Fence & Miter Gauge Included Left & Right Table Tilting Control 76" H x 40" W x 31" D Overall Dimensions 385 lbs. Approximate Shipping Weight
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Hey guys - I have a lead on one of these saws and it looks really nice, but wondered if anyone has any experience with them - good or bad. I can pick it up for around 1250.00 and I see them reatailing for 2000 on most sites. Anybody have any thoughts?? Would be used primariliy on metal stock 1" x 1/4-1/2" like knives and billets I make. But would also like to use for cutting my own scales out of wood and micarta.
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Just ordered a KMG-10 ...... Can't wait to get
kayakersteve replied to kayakersteve's topic in Grinders, Sanders, etc
So far, am really loving this grinder - Hard to imagine that I have not had one sooner - Use it daily! -
Hey rich and all, Thanks for the many tips....the main thing I have learned is that i HAVE A LOT TO LEARN! I have seen many references to the stickies in knifemaking and ignored them as others have. Well, I have started to take more time to go through these and can only say WOW! What a wealth of information. Thank you for again directing me and any others that may read this thread. I am sure I will make more mistakes, but will start using these great references more as well. Again, thanks Rich - I had only etched this balde to see the pattern as I am relatively new to making my own pattern welds - I know it needs much more smoothing. And the reference about going on to the ricasso was pertaining to my next knife. I have more material from this billet to do another knife and was going to start making another new billet this weekend as well. I think I get more satisfaction out of making pattern welds than actually making the knives! Thnaks for great tip about the ladder pattern as well - will try that soon.
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Rich - Thanks for your great suggestions. I only etched to see the pattern, knowing I had more sanding to do. I think I will do the file as you suggest. On to ricasso next - Thanks again!
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ok - Loud and clear - Will do. Thanks for tips and help - I'll keep posting as I go along.
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Ok - I might keep this one as is and experience this phenomenon first hand. Keep the critique coming as I learn from mistakes
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Jeremy - wasn't sure what you meant. In general, are sharp / square edges prone to stress? Now that it is heat treated, is the stress issue still relevant?
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Jeremy - the wip is already normalized, edge hardened and tempered. I think you are seeing the hardening line
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Rich - Feel free to post any ideas here - I can take constructive and even deconstructive criticism well. Remember, this is simply a hobby to me - I have no intentions of trying to make a living out of selling knives or anything else I make. I post stuff because I have enjoyment out of what I have created knowing full well that the professional knifemakers would probably do things a lot differently. Thanks, Steve
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It would be amazing to see what type of hot iron has moved on that anvil - great find!
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Haven't decided on handle - I have some dark green micarta and aged oak laying around.
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Well, I am getting better with each knife. This billet started as 11 layers of 1095, 1084 and 15n20. Folded to total of 66 layers and did my best to create ladder pattern. Here is where I am at - I etched to see pattern and am happy so far. Needs further finishing, then will re-etch and do scales