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Found 6 results

  1. Hey y'all! This is my first official post on the site, thanks for having me! Just yesterday I bought my first anvil from a guy on Craigslist, I got it for $180 so it was a good deal in my opinion, despite the damage to it. As far as I know it's a Hay Budden, probably around 125lb (it weighs about 100lb without the heel.) there's an indication of a hardened steel plate welded to what I assume is a wrought iron base. The heel is missing, and I can't seem to find a serial number anywhere, so I would really appreciate any help identifying this beauty. Considering this is my first anvil, and I'm a newbie blacksmith at best, I don't plan on trying to repair this anvil any time in the near future. I know how you all feel about taking a grinder to an anvil face, so I won't ask, however there is a considerable amount of chipping on the face, and with a missing hardy hole, I can't easily make a striking plate either. In the eventual possibility that I need a more refined edge for forging, what repairs should I consider making? Any and all help is greatly appreciated! Edit: Also it appears this gal got rusted up pretty bad, and someone tried to paint over it. I don't want to risk ruining a patina that's older than I am, so I'm wondering if removing the rust and paint is worth doing, or if it's best to just leave it be. Thanks!
  2. I’m don’t want to be a jerk that posts a sentence and a terrible picture and has to have you guys tell me pictures and descriptions help, so I tried my best to help you help me. Picked this guy up over the weekend for $85 in west central Indiana. Plainly you can see it’s been broken and used quite a bit. Any glaring characteristics that will help with identifying it? And what is the next step in getting it ready for use. I’ve seen sandblasting, electrolysis, wire wheel, vinergar, and so on and so forth. I’m just hoping to get a little advice and thank you in advance for taking the time to help. I see a small o and then a 1 (maybe or something else idk) I think, and definitely 22. I was told it was a 130lb anvil. I was looking at the same side of the number and saw a small x but other than those I can’t find any markings yet. And with the part missing I could see it being 1*128 + 2*26 + 2lbs= 182 - 50 lbs(for the broken part) and it being 130lbs. Although I haven’t weighed it I believe it is definitely close to that weight. It does have handling holes on both sides and the bottom. The one picture I messed with the color a little bit to try to get the number to stand out better. While I should have but didn’t put a reference item or measured it I would say from horn to break is around 20”. If it will help greatly I’ll dimension the whole xxxx thing. I know an anvil doesn’t have to be great to get the job done and I’m happy to have it. In todays market where I’ve been pricing anvils at between $ 4/5 a lb., $85 makes me suspicious even though it’s “broken”. I’m planning on making blades and some tools. So although a hardy hole would be optimal for my first anvil I’m kind of shocked that I found one for so cheap. I did a ping test and while my ears aren’t the best I hit it and definitely hear a ping. Don’t have a ball bearing yet to test a rebound yet but with a hammer I could feel a rebound. I know you shouldn’t grind the face of it but I can’t help but want to clean it up and flatten it out some. Idk if it’s my ocd or what... Thanks dean
  3. My cast Iron kettle fell & broke. Can it be fixed? If so, who do I carry it to? What kind of service?
  4. Was in the process of drifting a slit for my first hammer eye punch in a rectangular piece of 4140 about an 1 1/4 deep and 3/4 of the way one of the corners chipped off (about 1/4" of a 1"). I was cooling in my water quench bucket after every second/third hit, I didn't work the material cold (good orange heat), used a 2/5lb hammer. What did I do wrong? I should be able to salvage the chisel by regrinding and re-heat treating, I just don't want to repeat my mistake. Any advice (pertinent to my slitting chisel) is welcomed. Edit: Should also indicate that the 4140 billet was annealed in vermiculite for a couple hours after I pressed it from round into rectangle.
  5. Hello everyone, I joined this forum with the specific goal of getting some help in identifying this anvil I was able to pick up this past week. It has lived on the children's camp I work at for a long time and ive had my eyes on it for years. It has lived its life as a beating block and a farriers tool for horseshoes. No idea where it came from before it arrived on this property in upstate NY. Ive done some research and at first I was excited to see that it said P Wright, but after reading more I realized its probably not what it says, I think someone tried to falsify the stamp in order to sell it for more money, but I cant be sure. Its been sitting at the tack shed for 15 plus years as far as I know. you will see that it has heavy damage on the back end, where the heel is completely missing, its got lots of scars and marks from kids beating on it and almost looks like someone was shooting it with a BB gun. the strangest thing I can see is the crack/bad weld job looking thing on the base under the stamp (picture 3) and possibly someone was welding and dripped a little (picture 9). there is also a hairline crack on the face (picture 8). The bottom is in good shape, marked 1-0-2. (obviously it has lost some weight) The guy in charge of our horsemanship program wanted to get rid of it and I snatched it up, the only thing ive done to it was take the surface rust off, since it has been exposed to a lot of rain and snow. Any and all info or tips would be appreciated, id like to know more about it and take care of it. I will also entertain thoughts of passing it along since I already own a Vulcan.
  6. Hello... I have a Riland cut60 with less than 2 hours of usage. It was in storage for 2 years. Now it it does not work, the fan doesnt spin etc. any one know of a source for troubleshooting steps. I have some electronics experience, of the 101 variety. Thanks to all