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I Forge Iron


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About 3DuckDave

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    Northern Indiana
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    Family, hunting, fishing, pyrotechnics, learning blacksmithing

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  1. Frosty, the particular piece I have had a ridge running the length of the piece of probably .03 to .04, and I felt this was undesirable for my usage. Besides being a machinist I couldn't resist the opportunity to fire up the Bridgeport and make some chips. I did leave the one edge radiused as I felt that might be a useful feature at a later date Charles regardless of if you do anymore hardening to it, it looks to be a handy tool and has give me a few ideas as to what else can be done with a rail to make more useful. Thanks for the starting the thread
  2. Charles, I know you said filing the rail was tough going, but is it actually hardened? If not what plans do you have to harden it? I made an anvil out of a chunk of track, but when I machined the face found it to be "soft" like a tool steel. And every time I've hit something on it I've left marks in the face. I had somebody on here question me about what lead me to believe it was hardened? Not that his question was wrong or upsetting, just gave me food for thought. I've only come across one mention of heat treating such an anvil and that was in The Complete Modern Blacksmith by Weygers. I'm sure there other accounts, I just haven't found them. Your track anvil is very interesting by the way, very cool looking project.
  3. I want to thank everyone for posting their pieces, ideas, and their knowledge of how to make some amazing bottle openers!!!!!! I hope to make one at the next meeting.
  4. Clint, I love the idea of the railroad spikes. Did you drill holes prior to driving the spikes or just drive them in?
  5. Thomas we run mostly 6-4 but we do run CP in small diameters. I am limited to a certain amount I can purchase. I can get you the phone number of the local scrapyards, being the orthopedic capital of the world I'm sure they handle a bunch of Ti, and stainless. I'm interested in making some tongs out of some 6-4 I've got. Has anybody tried this and is it feasible?
  6. This is a topic I've been thinking about since I started getting interested in blacksmithing, mostly because I work in a shop that 95% of our work is in titanium, and bar ends are readily available. Thanks to Borntoolate and his post about searching google to search IFI site more efficiently I didn't have to be a true newbie and post a new thread.
  7. Thanks madwing I'll that one to list as well
  8. Thanks ThomasPowers, I'll add that one to the reading list. I'm reading The Blacksmiths Craft by McRaven currently I'm not really gung-ho about the track anvils, but since I'm just starting out I'll work with what I have for the moment.
  9. Randy Bill, I machined the face with a indexable flycutter/face mill on the Bridgeport. To be honest I'm not sure that the track is very hard or work hardened at all. It machined pretty easy, and a file left a mark pretty easy as well. From my machining experience it reminded me of machining a soft (not heat treated) tool steel like D2. So it's tough but I wouldn't say it's work hardened. I think it will work until I can aquire a proper anvil.
  10. Here you go Frosty, here's my railroad anvil all cleaned up. I left the radius on the one edge and just blended it into the face after cleaning it up. I might put a horn and a shelf on it when I have more time to work on it. Thanks for the encouragement.
  11. Took my daughter on a pumpkin train ride a local train museum and after talking to a few of the volunteers I came away with a small chunk of track to soon become a small make shift anvil.
  12. Well I called the seller this afternoon and told him I was going to pass on this one based on brand and condition. The search continues...
  13. Thanks guys for all the help and info. I'll let you know how it turns out.
  14. Thanks FatFudd and DSW for the input. @DSW, profile updated, I was considering an offer of scrap price, seller wants $100.
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