jmccustomknives

Until I got my post vice I didn't know what the difference was either. The first time I clamped something down it became clear. Stuff that might move when tapped, twisted to tweaked in my 65lb machine vice doesn't move at all in the post vice. There are a few tools in my shop I could live without, the post vice isn't one of them.

My 200lb Fisher was made in 1941. It has a 20 cast on one leg and 1941 cast across the front, the Fisher logo in on the side. I'm sure the Fisher guy will know, but it's my guess that it was made in 1973, or at least is more contemporary than mine. I don't recall when Fisher went out of business, it may be one of their last.

Forge welding Damascus as complicated as a feather pattern or even simple folding can cause inclusions which can make weak points and risers for stress fractures. Usually a smith who can pull off complex patters is knowledgeable enough to do it without incurring those defects. As far as cutting goes, there is some debate about the edge holding of a Damascus blade over a homogeneous steel. The theory states that a fine pattern with many layers crossing the edge will make a microscopic saw blade effect with the softer of the two alloys wearing faster causing the blade to self sharpen. I've personally never seen this in practice though. In my humble opinion, if one took my two favorite steels (L-6 & 1095) and tested identical knives you might get 45 cuts with L-6 and 60 from 1095. The DCE theory would hold that you'd see more cuts from a Damascus made from those two steels than either could do by themselves. In my experience the truth performance usually falls in between and can't exceed the parent materials performance. I'm curious if anyone else has the same experience. With strength there is something to consider. When welding a billet carbon migration can effect how a billet acts. On a true high/low carbon Damascus like Cable, they will not break clean. I broke a cable Damascus Bowie strait out of a water quench. It took a large wrench to pry it over. The blade flexed 30deg before breaking like green lumber. With a Damascus like a Feather Pattern you probably have complete carbon migration with the patterning being caused by alloying. A blade like that will snap clean like a homogeneous blade. And like a homogeneous blade one can manipulate the hardness in the same manner depending on alloys used. The only true henderance to strength in Damascus is weld defects and carbon migration. A smith who knows his materials and welding techniques can work with those issues to make a blade that could pass the ABS test.

How do you intend on heat treating this material?

Harris makes a scrap torch that's second to none. I prefer Victors small home kits, but that's mostly due to the ease of getting tips. There's not as many Harris torches in our area so no one keeps that many parts. Keep in mind, you can't use acetylene hoses (R grade) on propane which requires T grade. Also there are other LP gasses that can be used and may require different tips that don't interchange. These two torch varieties can use both fuel gasses, but there are some out there that can't. Always be mindful and ask questions. As Frosty said, you'll use more oxygen with propane but the fuel is much cheaper than acetylene so it's a wash at worst.

True story bro, one night my wife went to rub my back. She started poking me and said something to the effect, "your backs like rubbing a board", "Quick go get some Crispy Cream donuts and eat a dozen". I've actually gained weight, all muscle. I guess swinging a sledge hammer did more than going to the gym.

One little trick I came up with was making a hardie tool out of a pair of vice grips. Weld a handle on if the material isn't long enough. Grab it in the vice grips and you can use a sledge. Of course if your anvil is too light that might be a problem.

Thanks. That's kinda what I was thinking.

Thanks! Great info. When I'm doing demos I like to share about the age of the equipment, so what years would this have been made?

A kind gentleman brought this to me. It doesn't have any name one it. Works great. Been wanting a primitive demo, this is the next step for that.

I love a torch for those small parts. To much heat, to big of a heat makes thing difficult.

Bearing steel generally refers to 52100, but bearings can be made from high speed steels to case hardened junk. It can include the balls or rollers and races. Always check them before starting to forge.

If you've never made one why would you start with the most difficult/expensive materials. A razor, as simple a tool as it appears, isn't easy to make.

K, I picked up a bag of nut coal to try. It was hard to start. After 2 attempts I used a little green coal. That got it going. It took the fire a while to mature, but once it did I found it perfect for projects where monitoring the steels color since I could lay the work on top. I'll definitely keep a few bags around for future projects.

I agree with Steve on this one, that is way to tough to make happen. 52100 doesn't exactly want to weld to itself (it will, just not easy) due to the alloy content. Throw in stainless and getting a solid weld probably isn't going to happen unless it's done perfectly. Infact, I wouldn't recommend 52100 for anyone making Damascus for the first time.

Yeah, check out those vids. They take the guesswork out of the process. After watching just one I was able to make a very nice (for the first) one. by the forth it was perfected, at least by my piddly standards.

316 isn't heat treatable. I've never heard of can welding it. I guess it would work but since it wouldn't be used for blades I suppose you could go for some psychedelic patterns for fixtures and other decorative items.

Find you some guys locally that metal detect. To them it's trash, but if you ask they will gladly give you all the axes and other things they find. Usually they'll either pass over the stuff or prop it next to a stump. You'll need to learn how to identify these materials to separate them.

As was stated, wrought has a beautiful look when finished right. It is somewhat corrosion resistant when compared to mild steel. From my experience, it takes half the hammer weight to move the same amount of material. Heat is the big thing, wrought is worked much hotter than steel. There is also different grades of wrought. Higher grades can be worked further than low grade.

Sure, the only problems to controling airflow and how long it stays charged. Heck, I ran a coal forge for years off a wet/dry vac.

For your pattern welded billets 1 round of flux is adequate. JPH, 1095 & L-6 is one of my fav combos.

Not all gas forges will get hot enough. You'll just have to give it a go. You can do an experiment by getting the forge up to temp and taking 2 steel rods and put them in. Bring them to a red heat and flux then put them back and bring them to the welding temp. When they are as hot as you can get them touch them together. If they stick your forge is probably hot enough to do the job. Let us know how it goes. 1. first heat bring to red and flux. 2. return to forge, bring to heat. flux should be bubbling. Allow for a good soak time as most welds fail because the center isn't at welding temps. 3. Start at the end of the billet and with sharp but not overpowering strikes work your way down. Do it this way to keep pockets from forming and ruining the billet.. I like to repeat the weld at least once, twice isn't a bad idea if you aren't sure.

Most definitely. Welding thin pieces together is difficult enough without the possibility of burning the outside sections in a coal fire. For knife making you should get a gas forge. I've played with the band saw/banding. It doesn't do very good but there is a trick. Cut your saw blades in short sections 3-4". Leave the banding in one piece and fold the billet together. You can crimp the banding together with a hammer with every fold. It holds together well. You can get 2-3 folds before you burn off the low carbon banding, after that the saw steel may not weld together. On that last fold I'd take a small file and fold the billet to make a quasi san mai so at least it would hold an edge.

Since your using coal it would be much easier, but more work, to start with thicker material.

Looks like parts to a cart or buggy of some kind. I don't think it went to a full blown wagon. Smoothbore, I'm thinking it's gas welded. That would date it between 1890ish to as late as the 40's. I've got some rods that were on a building made around 1900, one of the eyes were gas welded. They are an interesting find, I'd like to know if they were wrought or steel. That would go a long way to figuring out an age.